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#1
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I actually bought some shock link rods from Vintage Power Wagon knowing they were too short.
I used the upper protion of the original link from my cab 11 and cut/welded/grafted the bottom threaded portion of the new link rod....it gave me the ring and rubber bushings, cupped washers, new thread section and the whole thing looks like new. Also did another set just using long grade 8 bolts but needed to find the necessary fine thread and tack welded the cupped washer where the ring would have been. Cheers
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Bob Carriere....B.T.B C15a Cab 11 Hammond, Ontario Canada |
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#2
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Last week I sripped the dash panel from all knobs, bolts etc. and found some paint remnants....I would be very interested what others have to say about the colours!
I have found a satin black primer on the rear of the panel (normally hidden by the centre frame) and behind the bolts/washers normally fastening the panel to the frame. Khaki green G3 can be found where the engine cover normally sits , behind some of the switches and behind the brace holding the steering shaft/tube. A brown/red colour appears in several locations; first I thought remains of SCC2, but it might be Red Brown primer??? There is a rich brown/green colour behind the central fuel switch and on some of the sections of the dash; I think this might be SCC2??? The final colour is a blue-ish colour that is the top coat on all parts. Blue is the best description, so maybe a civvy post-war paint job, but it could also be a green that has faded to blue. Any opinions? I hope the pictures help, but it was hard to capture the colours with the camera. regards, Alex
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Chevrolet C8 cab 11 FFW BSA Folding Bicycle |
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#3
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The paint remains are still keeping me busy. I took out my colour samples, painted according to Mike Starmers mixes ,and had another look at the dash.
The first picture shows the SCC2 colour chip on the left and the Khaki green G3 on the right. I am certain G3 is the pealing paint on the right....I am still not certain about the red/brown though....it could be SCC2, but could also still be a primer. The second picture shows what was underneath the steering support....it looks somewhat like G3, but it seems brighter....Any ideas? regards, Alex edit: I now see what difference light and angle can make.....the G3 sample in both pictures is one and the same, but looks totally different in both pictures!
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Chevrolet C8 cab 11 FFW BSA Folding Bicycle |
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#4
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Hi
My cab 11 C8 had faded KG3 patches , it was overall in that colour , no camo I could find . The Cab 12 C8 I bought years ago was painted a blackish disruptive colour over green - the black was brush applied . It was all very faded and difficult to see .
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1940 cab 11 C8 1940 Morris-Commercial PU 1941 Morris-Commercial CS8 1940 Chev. 15cwt GS Van ( Aust.) 1942-45 Jeep salad |
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#5
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In one of the military magazine a while back one of the Ordenance paint supplier had pictures fo the same Dodge WC 56 taken at the same angle during different time of the day and the shades of Od was all different.
I don't know how we can address this.... than different computer screen set up, etc. heck even the eyes of different people will see shades differently. My wife, who sloves photography, does most of her wildlife photos during the golden hours........ 2 to 3 hours after sun rise and 2 to 3 hours before sunset... the rest of the time the contrast is too harsh and light colors blown out. Have you considered using "Pink" as used on the Land Rover in North Africa???? Kidding!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Bob Carriere....B.T.B C15a Cab 11 Hammond, Ontario Canada |
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#6
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Mike,
My C8 has some darker blueish green remains on the outside of the windscreen frame and cab rear wall. It could be Dark Green G4 camo, or Scc15...or even a post-war civvy colour.....so difficult to determine! Quote:
thanks for your comments, guys. Alex
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Chevrolet C8 cab 11 FFW BSA Folding Bicycle |
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#7
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Just a comment on the shocker link story.
The swaged/enclosed ball type end as shown in Phil's HUP photos were used on numerous later production trucks including DUKW, CCKW, Studebaker US6 and Dodge WCs to name a few. The length of the rod varied but the ball end with its integral tapered and threaded mounting pin was pretty much standard, I've seen them with varying amounts of thread but they will interchange. The ball ends can be pressed out of the eye end and a replacement pressed in if available. I acquired a quantity of NOS US6 links some years ago and pressed the ball ends out of quite a number for use on other vehicle types. Or original links can be cut and welded to make them the desired length without pressing out the ball ends. David
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Hell no! I'm not that old! Last edited by motto (RIP); 09-02-16 at 00:31. |
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