Ford Blitz Restoration/Rebuild

[Private_collector]

Thanks, Jacques. I hear you, regarding the floorplates. Wasn't aware of any differences, and still wouldn't be if you had not mentioned it. Unfortunately the rear plate has had two nasty big brackets welded on, which I assume is not original. I'm sure I can massage them off, if need be. I tackled a job today that I have been dreading. I thoruoghly cleaned out the workshop, to the extent that there is now clear floor everywhere, propper storage space for the gun shield, permanent location for my hydraulic press (which I bought around 9mths ago), and most importantly.....I can now contemplate rolling the chassis outside for a good blowing down with the air hose and soft brush. Spring cleaning came late this year, and I may not have even done it today, except that I had a gentleman passing by who spotted the daily driver CMP and asked if he could have a look. He was with his Son (I think it was his Son) and they were heading into town. They knew straight away that it was a 13 cab type, and as it was obvious they were 'in the know', I was pleased to speak with them and show them around. The workshop was in a disgusting state, and I was genuinely embarrassed I had let it go so badly. After they left, I thought RIGHT, that's enough of this! Spent all day, but got it all spic & span again. Not taken any photpgraphy. I finished after 1900hrs. Unsure yet if Bryce wants to go to the beach tomorrow, but if he doesn't want to go out, we will line up the grey truck, extend the front winch cable, and pull the restoration chassis out into the sunshine for the first time EVER since it was assembled. Bloody mud wasps have had high jinx building their ghastly little homes, but I think I have now removed all of them.

I hope all you chaps have had enjoyable Christmases. Here, as with last year, we didn't get snow. This has been the case for some years now. In fact, probably been snow free since the last ice-age, 10,000yrs or more ago. In place of snow, we got 35 degree (Celsius) heat. I would have preferred snow, really.

At my age, Christmas doesn't really involve much in the way of gifts.....apparently! Mrs B and I did exchange gifts x1 each, that we had colluded on. We both got new watches. Bryce got a wifi device from us. There is no internet available on his base, so we thought this may be of benefit to him, and also we might get the occasional email or two. He also received a good quality torque wrench, which I had engraved with his name, rank, and service number. More about engraving in a moment. Bryce bought me a VERY special gift which I will always cherish.
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This is my Christmas present from Bryce, a bottle of Port (well I think it is port!) that commemorates "100 years of RAEME". Although this isn't exactly the case, I think we all understand it refers to all the names that the Australian Army have called their Engineers in last century. RAEME, by that name, only came into being after WWII. Hopefully you can read the writing on the bottle. It explains this better than I. I have no intention of opening the bottle, unless a very specific circumstance arises. I pray that event does not occur, and the bottle will remain untouched!

The grey truck didn't have a bad Christmas either. I have bought it a complete set of corner lights and a new pair of side mirrors. I'll put those on when I get a chance, with mirrors the more urgent need. One of the old ones is deteriorating rather badly, thanks to the Queensland sun. The plastic is starting to crumble on drivers side, and I fear the glass may fall out if it progresses much further.

The local company I used to do the engraving on Bryces torque wrench (laser etching, actually) are able to work from a range of suitable formats, and it got me thinking about doing a test to reproduce the generally illusive CMP shift pattern plates etc.. If anyone has either a good quality photo of any shift plates OR a black and white scan/image of such plates, I would be very interested to see them. I will then go about seeing what can be done to make an acceptable replication onto aluminium.

On another topic. Does anyone have first hand experience with installing the Ford flathead engine and gearbox WITHOUT removing the cab????? I would very much like to get my cab back onto the chassis without further delay. The only thing preventing me is of course the unfinished engine rebuild. If it can be put in carefully, with success, it will get me some more workshop space that I intend to use for my sewing machine. It is currently in the other shed, and in the way there! No doubt the nose panel would need to come back off, but that's quite acceptable and not a real big job. If the cab was back on, I can also start installing wiring etc... Any thoughts, folks?

I'll post a couple of photos once I drag the chassis into the sunshine.

[Keith Webb]

A lot of us have done this, it is not too bad if you leave the front shell off so you can get at things easily, but if the cab is intact you'll need something like a forklift to poke it in.
It's quite doable but far easier to do with the cab completely off.

[Jacques Reed]

Originally Posted by Private_collector

On another topic. Does anyone have first hand experience with installing the Ford flathead engine and gearbox WITHOUT removing the cab????? I would very much like to get my cab back onto the chassis without further delay. The only thing preventing me is of course the unfinished engine rebuild. If it can be put in carefully, with success, it will get me some more workshop space that I intend to use for my sewing machine. It is currently in the other shed, and in the way there! No doubt the nose panel would need to come back off, but that's quite acceptable and not a real big job. If the cab was back on, I can also start installing wiring etc... Any thoughts, folks?

Hi Tony,

Here is a very old photo (pre digital) of the engine and transmission coming out of my F15A chassis. I made a strong back out of RHS and angle and attached it by 8 bolts to the valve gallery where the intake manifolds sits to spread the load out. It was easy to fabricate and if you like, I can send a drawing of it. A series of holes for the shackle lets you lift the the engine and transmission together, or just the engine, keeping it level at all times. It used a front towing shackle from the truck to get the correct throat for the RHS width so that even saved a bit of money.

No doubt you could install it the same way with the cab on if you have a engine crane available with adequate outreach and capacity and shorten the lifting chain. The shop manual shows a similar arrangement using a special block and eyebolt inserted in the valve gallery.

I agree with Keith too. Probably best to leave the cowling off to give room to maneuver even though the shop manual indicates it can be done with it on.
Based on the number of cowlings I have seen with the top front crossmember cut out and the later factory mod of that front crossmember being a bolted in type I would say the manual diagram is not 100% correct and that part of the cowling gets in the way.

Cheers,

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Tony

Though it is not of Ford V8 have gotten pretty good at pulling and installing Chevy in Pat 13 and 12. Here is video of Chevrolet engine installation set to music

https://youtu.be/Rd1IXU0fchA

When I did this and a time lapse of removing did them as strang entertainment but also as a tool to study the most efficient way, for me, to do it again in the future. Cut down significantly on my learning, or relearning curve.

Agree the comment about removing the nose to work more efficiently, time to pull the nose is more than made up in removal and several times on reinstallation.

Question is the cross bar top of the grill on Fords removable?

Cheers Phil

[Tony Wheeler]

Originally Posted by Phil Waterman

Question is the cross bar top of the grill on Fords removable?

Not until mid-1945 production Phil. It was one of several cab design improvements introduced by Ford at that time:

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It was also post-war Australian Army practice to modify the cross bar during engine replacement, by hacksawing it off and refitting with countersunk screws. Several of my vehicles have undergone this mod:

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[Keith Webb]

My FGT has an identical mod to this, I think I'll keep it as part of it's story.

Originally Posted by Tony Wheeler

It was also post-war Australian Army practice to modify the cross bar during engine replacement, by hacksawing it off and refitting with countersunk screws. Several of my vehicles have undergone this mod:

Attachment 78532

Attachment 78533

[Private_collector]

I attended a new years eve party at a neighbours place, and another guest was a fellow from across the road a ways, who happens to have a light truck with a hydraulic crane that can reach 7mts. I had expected to leave the party and retire to bed around 2230hrs, but approx that time three of us got to talking about restorations, and I invited them over to see my green truck. Personally, I didn't think we were in the workshop for that long, but apparently we almost missed midnight for looking over the contents of my shed! The ladies weren't impressed with our absence. A long story short, my near neighbour has offered use of his crane truck to put the cabin in position, so that is now the plan. I did a quick measure up, and found that once cabin is not taking up it's own floorspace, I will have room to put the sewing machine in AND still have enough room to move the gun inside as well. That's very good news. I had been wondering where it would go. By that time the trails will be plated with steel and attached to the axle/wheels, so it will take considerable space from that stage onwards. The neighbour with the crane is also a master boilermaker and can weld anything, so he may get some of the welding as well.
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Speaking of the gun, I cut and shaped most of the brackets and shield attachments yesterday, and got those in place this afternoon. I am yet to make one piece that holds the upper part of the dial sight box in place, and possibly another two pieces on the back of the shield (though I dont know what they are for) Also don't know how I am going to make the curved section the telescope viewing door slides / locks onto. It will be metal, that much I know. Probably aluminium. Probably a pain in the backside to make, I shouldn't wonder.

[Tony Wheeler]

Originally Posted by Keith Webb

My FGT has an identical mod to this, I think I'll keep it as part of it's story.

Indeed it's arguably "standard" on Aust pattern FGTs as they remained in service so long! I have 4 FGT front shells and they all have this mod, as opposed to only two of my numerous other wrecks. It's a definite improvement and worth considering for any resto. I've found the most useful aspect is ease of radiator removal/replacement.

[Private_collector]

Even with the nose panel modification, wouldn't it be more likely to scrape the sides getting the engine in? It's a pretty tight fit, isn't it? Naturally I ask this from a restorers point of view, as I would wager a couple or bits of missing paint while in military service wouldn't lead to anyone getting demoted!

[Keith Webb]

Originally Posted by Tony Wheeler

Indeed it's arguably "standard" on Aust pattern FGTs as they remained in service so long! I have 4 FGT front shells and they all have this mod, as opposed to only two of my numerous other wrecks. It's a definite improvement and worth considering for any resto. I've found the most useful aspect is ease of radiator removal/replacement.

Quite true Tony, I'll be keeping the mod partly because it's a part of the truck's history and also for practical reasons.

And it's a fairly easy thing to get the engine in and out with that mod even though it's a bit tight. It's still a LOT easier with the front shell off. As for the radiator I fully agree, you can tilt it forward rather than lifting it vertically.

[Jacques Reed]

Originally Posted by Private_collector

The local company I used to do the engraving on Bryces torque wrench (laser etching, actually) are able to work from a range of suitable formats, and it got me thinking about doing a test to reproduce the generally illusive CMP shift pattern plates etc.. If anyone has either a good quality photo of any shift plates OR a black and white scan/image of such plates, I would be very interested to see them. I will then go about seeing what can be done to make an acceptable replication onto aluminium.

Hi Tony again,

Have PM'd you photos and scans of the three types of shift pattern plates that I know of for F15, F15A and F30-F60. They would have been needed to be shrunk too small to post here.
Hope they are of good use to you.

Cheers,

[Keith Webb]

Jacques, the FGT plate is different in that it has 42 gallons instead of 24 for the fuel capacity.

[Jacques Reed]

Hi Keith,

That's cool! Never saw one of those rare ones. Make that four different versions of the plate.

Cheers

[Private_collector]

Thankyou Gentlemen, for the information. It sounds promising to contemplate putting cab on prior to getting the engine in. I have no issue with removing the nose panel for engine installation. Got it on once, can do it again.

I'm yet to hear back from my fellow at the tyre shop. He was to get information for me, with regards to alternative tyres. I'll go see him when I get the chance. When I woke up this morning (0350hrs), I had what I hope is a good idea. I'm VERY reluctant to 'have at' one of my truck tyres with a grinder/sander to the unwanted portion of the bead, but may have a solution. Those tyres are same as ones on my gun carriage axle, and that doesn't carry very much weight, by comparison. I can attack one tyre, hoping to get a suitable result, and if not confident I can swap that one with an unmolested tyre from the gun. That will be my last resort, if all other avenues fail. No rush on that front. Got enough to do now, anyway. I'm heading into town this morning, to buy a small can of body filler for the sunshine roof, and to get another piece of perspex to place more sign cutting examples on.

It was very windy and overcast yesterday, so I didn't get any sunshine onto my green truck chassis. Maybe better fortune today. At least the wind had died away.

Once again, my gratitude to the guys that gave me testimonials on engine installation. Phil, I liked your video! Made me go scrambling for my digital camera, to check if it has a time lapse ability....which unfortunately it doesn't. I assume it IS time lapse that we were seeing on the video. If not, Phil, please consider switching to decaf!

[Private_collector]

With the weather still very windy but no sign of rain, I hitched the restoration chassis to my other truck and pulled it outside for a good dusting off and a thorough check over.
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While I had the luxury of some extra working space, I installed the passenger side fuel cell and the hand/emergency brake band. Spiked my damn finger on a sharp bit of copper or whatever the hell is in the brake band! Rotten sod.
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This was not only the first time EVER that the rolling chassis has been out of my workshop, it was also the first time I used the winch on front of the grey truck. In fact, it's the first winch I have ever used. Has rather good power on it too. I was tempted to reenact a scene from the sequel to The Gods Must Be Crazy, where the driver of a land rover winches it out of a river by anchoring it half way up a tree. Lord only knows WHY he chooses anything other than the base of the tree, but it certainly made good comedy seeing a LR heading heavenward. I suspect my vehicle would just pull the tree down instead.

I believe I will proceed with putting the cabin on my green truck before the engine is in place. I'll leave the nose panel on the cab until it must come off for engine in. It will look more impressive as the workshop door rolls up.

[Jason Linders]

That's really looking good Tony well done