M38a1 CDN2 - Winter Project

[Wayne Hingley]

Some more photos of the side and rear corner panels:

[Wayne Hingley]

There was a replacement floor brace section that was riveted on over the original (which had some rust issues). I exposed the original floor brace, cut out the rusted section along with the floor section that was also rusted, and prepared it for a new floor patch and floor brace (I can reuse the replacement that the CF installed). Im waiting until after sandblasting to replace the floor and brace.

[maple_leaf_eh]

Looking very good! I'll bet the CF never took the body off to do those rear corner patches.

[Wayne Hingley]

Originally Posted by maple_leaf_eh

Looking very good! I'll bet the CF never took the body off to do those rear corner patches.

Thanks Terry. They actually did have the body off, and they did quite a lot of work to the floor braces etc. Its obvious that they were doing things in a production environment though... lots of goo-type filler, rivets and some rough edges. But thats stuff that I will play with, and get it nice and neat!

[Wayne Hingley]

I have been travelling for work quite a bit since the beginning of the year, so progress on the jeep has been a bit slow. If the weather for the next few days is corporative, I plan to get some sandblasting done on the frame and some of the miscellaneous small pieces.

[Wayne Hingley]

Hi Stuart. Yes it is a fun project overall.

I am using a Millermatic 211 wire feed welder with C25 shielding gas (25% CO2, 75% Argon). For the body work, I use a .023" wire size. Most of the sheet metal in the jeep body ranges between 18-20 gauge. The Miller has an "Auto-Set" function where you can input various set-points (wire thickness, shielding gas type, and metal thickness) and the machine will determine the proper voltage and wire speed. Alternatively you can also control the voltage and wire speed manually, and there is a reference chart under the feed cover. I tend to like the Auto-Set function, but sometimes I set it up for a slightly thinner gauge metal than I am actually working with (to prevent burn-through). I find the older body metal is a bit more susceptible to burn-through than brand new sheet metal. For example; while Im usually working with 18-20 gauge metal, I will set up the welder for 22-24 gauge metal (weld penetration is very good). I will switch back to .031" wire when Im done the body work. You can also weld sheet metal with .031" wire, but its a bit more sensitive.

The wooden frame with casters was a bit of a "make shift" thing that I put together quickly the day I took the body off, so that I would have something to place the body on. There was not a lot of thought put into its design, other than it is the same width and length as the jeep body, and it has the castors so I can move it around easily. It has worked well though, I have stood the body up on both ends to allow me access to work. I do use a ratchet-strap to stabilize the body when it is standing up on end. The castors I used are made for snowmobiles (its just what I had laying around). There is 5 sets, with 4 castors on each. I don't know what load they are rated for, but its way more than the little jeep body weighs. If I was going to do something different, I would probably sheet it in on the top to stand on. Its a bit of a tripping obstacle when I have the body standing on end. For my next stage of work, I will have the body positioned horizontally, so I can work inside. The current stand I have is too low for that type of work, so I will move the body onto some 24" high scaffolding. I don't want to be crawling around on my knees.

I agree, the use of various carts and dollies is very helpful when working alone. It is also super convenient when you need to shuffle things around to work on the "item of the day".

[Wayne Hingley]

Sandblasting of the frame complete.