Ford Blitz Restoration/Rebuild

[Keith Webb]

My FGT has an identical mod to this, I think I'll keep it as part of it's story.

Originally Posted by Tony Wheeler

It was also post-war Australian Army practice to modify the cross bar during engine replacement, by hacksawing it off and refitting with countersunk screws. Several of my vehicles have undergone this mod:

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[Private_collector]

I attended a new years eve party at a neighbours place, and another guest was a fellow from across the road a ways, who happens to have a light truck with a hydraulic crane that can reach 7mts. I had expected to leave the party and retire to bed around 2230hrs, but approx that time three of us got to talking about restorations, and I invited them over to see my green truck. Personally, I didn't think we were in the workshop for that long, but apparently we almost missed midnight for looking over the contents of my shed! The ladies weren't impressed with our absence. A long story short, my near neighbour has offered use of his crane truck to put the cabin in position, so that is now the plan. I did a quick measure up, and found that once cabin is not taking up it's own floorspace, I will have room to put the sewing machine in AND still have enough room to move the gun inside as well. That's very good news. I had been wondering where it would go. By that time the trails will be plated with steel and attached to the axle/wheels, so it will take considerable space from that stage onwards. The neighbour with the crane is also a master boilermaker and can weld anything, so he may get some of the welding as well.
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Speaking of the gun, I cut and shaped most of the brackets and shield attachments yesterday, and got those in place this afternoon. I am yet to make one piece that holds the upper part of the dial sight box in place, and possibly another two pieces on the back of the shield (though I dont know what they are for) Also don't know how I am going to make the curved section the telescope viewing door slides / locks onto. It will be metal, that much I know. Probably aluminium. Probably a pain in the backside to make, I shouldn't wonder.

[Tony Wheeler]

Originally Posted by Keith Webb

My FGT has an identical mod to this, I think I'll keep it as part of it's story.

Indeed it's arguably "standard" on Aust pattern FGTs as they remained in service so long! I have 4 FGT front shells and they all have this mod, as opposed to only two of my numerous other wrecks. It's a definite improvement and worth considering for any resto. I've found the most useful aspect is ease of radiator removal/replacement.

[Private_collector]

Even with the nose panel modification, wouldn't it be more likely to scrape the sides getting the engine in? It's a pretty tight fit, isn't it? Naturally I ask this from a restorers point of view, as I would wager a couple or bits of missing paint while in military service wouldn't lead to anyone getting demoted!

[Keith Webb]

Originally Posted by Tony Wheeler

Indeed it's arguably "standard" on Aust pattern FGTs as they remained in service so long! I have 4 FGT front shells and they all have this mod, as opposed to only two of my numerous other wrecks. It's a definite improvement and worth considering for any resto. I've found the most useful aspect is ease of radiator removal/replacement.

Quite true Tony, I'll be keeping the mod partly because it's a part of the truck's history and also for practical reasons.

And it's a fairly easy thing to get the engine in and out with that mod even though it's a bit tight. It's still a LOT easier with the front shell off. As for the radiator I fully agree, you can tilt it forward rather than lifting it vertically.

[Lynn Eades]

Doesn't the manual describe the use of a long wooden pole to R&R the motor from a Ford CMP?

[Keith Webb]

Originally Posted by Lynn Eades

Doesn't the manual describe the use of a long wooden pole to R&R the motor from a Ford CMP?

Yes it does Lynn, there are even illustrations of how to do it, with the lifting chain miraculously moving from one side of the top grille bar to the other.

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Lynn

I've used the engine poll to pull the engine out of C60S and the trick around the hanging chain and the cross bar is two chains. One on each side of the cross bar, once the engine has begone to move forward pulling down on the end of the poll allows the chain on the inside to be slackened and remove.

The problem with pulling the Chevy engine is way is the height of the engine. Which means the lever has to be attached so that is basically sitting on the engine top. Might be easier with the Ford V8 which is shorter but wider.

Though given the time necessary to remove the nose is made up in the easy of pulling and installing the engine, that I only tried it once.

The lever poll is does make it easy to pull the engine the real advantage is installation when you can wiggle the engine around to get it back in place. The only really problem is that it is a two man job, one to counter balance and hold the end of the pole and the other to guide the engine. So once my teenage son was off to college had to go over working alone.

In a REME shop with lots of help the poll approach would be the fastest method. Two men on the pole to raise, lower and move the engine side to side and one man to guide the engine would be quite efficient with the nose on or off.

Part of the problem of course is that the center of gravity of the engine transmission combination is well inboard of the windshield and the front roof edge, so that the poll is actually reaching in under the windshield by several inchs.

Cheers Phil

[Keith Webb]

So that's how the chains are done! The main problem with the front shell removal on a 70 year old truck is there always seems to be one or more captive nut which doesn't want to cooperate. Also it's either a chain block or two man lift to remove and replace it too.