How To: Installing 9:00-16 tires on CMP wheels

[hrpearce]

For tyre removal spend the money on a decent bead pusher.

[Bob Carriere]

Your posting made me do a quick search on the web.

There is a manual bead breaker from ESCO...... as cheap as $137 US with free shipping..........

Since we have 4 11:00 x 20 to break..... 4 or more 20" CMP rims plus an endless string of 16" rims....... it sure sounds like a wise investment.

Design is fairly simple and the though of copying a home made version is tempting...... but at the price not worth the effort.

The first six tires and the cost is recovered and no driving to the truck tire shop.

Thanks for proding my curiosity.

Cheers

[CWO (ret) Gilles Aubé]

Hello Bob, which Esco Bead pusher would you recommended?
Today tire shop are not able or equipped for our need.
Gilles

[Bob Carriere]

Bonjour Gilles

Can't really recommend something I have not bought or used yet, however....

It seems to me that the above model would be ideal for the hobbyist and should work on the CMP rims. I have seen videos of its use on large tractor tires and it seems to be doing the job very well and only requires hand tools.

The model 70160 retails as low as $137 US with free shipping inside continental US which is convenient as I have a mail box in Upper NY state.

There is a larger heavy duty manual model that retails for near $600 model 20429 Pneu-Tech his intended to be used with air impact hammers and comes with grease fittings.... not any faster as it is still manual but could take more repeated operations without wearing out as fast.

All the manual machines rely on a screw device which if over used can wearout....regularly greasing the screw thread would go far to ease the operation and extend the life of the tool.

Even the low tech tire installer that we created use gets a liberal dab of grease on each threaded rod when ever we use it.

By chance Rob Clarke did by a smaller bead breaker model he purchased a few months back and sadly he found it lacking in capacity both for the size of the CMP rim or the pressure required. It is very similar in concept to the ESCO 70160 but about 1/4 its size.
We have used his device successfully on smaller tires and on one side of the 900x16 Michelin we unrimmed,,,,, it could not get a bite on the reverse side of the rim due to the deep dish design of the rim. We finally gave in and cut the rim on half to remove the tire.

I have yet to consult with Rob and Grant on the purchase of the ESCO model but when we do and when we test it out we will be sharing our information with the rest of MLU.

I have no trouble around here getting a tire shop to remove stubborn tires for us...... use to be $20 dollars to remove and reinstall the new tires.....now its by the hour and if your tire is stubborn you pay for it.... it works out to approx. $25 a wheel just to remove and we have to loosen and remove the 8 rusted nuts at our own expense of time and Oxy-acet. gas......

I have estimated that in about 6 tires we break even....... with the 3 of us using it it will get paid for quickly.

The tractor/truck dealers use a hand carried hydraulic system that is worth about $3000. and allows one man to remove tires from a fram tractor without removing the rim off the tractor. I have seen the operator change a blown tire on my Massey in less than 2 hours including reloading the tire with calcium but he did charge me over $500 for the service call.

I have studied the design sold by ESCO and concluded that it would cost us just as much to make our own when you consider the material and some machine shop time.....

Hang in there sooner or later we will have more information to share. It would be easier if the Cdn Looney was worth a bit more.....

Cheers

PS ...Comments & suggestions on tire bead breakers welcomed.....

[Jon Bradshaw]

I have a CMP and some LSVW tires so will be trying this some day.
I will take my time and try not to ruin any of the beads by using plenty of the snot...

[hrpearce]

My bead pusher was purchased for breaking the bead on tractor tyres because the rims with weights added are too heavy to handle by myself.
As can be seen in the picture the blitz tyre needed more than one push. I used one inch boards to hold the first push then pushed again with a one inch board between the bead and the pusher.

[Bob Carriere]

Even the expensive machine needs to be relocated every 90 degrees of the rims to effectively release the bead from the rim.

Wooden blocks of various size become very handy.

Most of the retailers of bead breakers show them using a rubber lubricant in a spray bottle....could be as simple as a mild soapy water solution.

Cheers

[Drew Sydorko]

Bob,
Currently in the process of putting new tires on old rims. Took the old wheels/ tires in to a shop to get them off. No problem, no breaking off studs and even able to keep flaps. I've done a huge job of removing rust, old rubber and paint. But how far do I need to take these rims? I'm sourcing out someone to sandblast for me as the one at school is too small and tedious. So, right down to bare metal all over? Where can I get flat olive drab paint? I've got to go over the bolts to get the threads clean again but I think this job is almost half over!! Your advice is appreciated. Also, some of the bolt studs are corroded. Will this be a major problem for strength? Drew

[Bob Carriere]

Hi Drew

Once down to bare metal the rest is easy.

The bare steel has to be painted with a good oil based glossy paint as it will facilitate sliding the tire's bead down the rim.

I usually spray a metal prep or phosphoric acid which etches and turns the upper layer of the steel into iron phosphate. The I paint them with POR 15 Black glossy.... available at C T C.

Who ever took your tire off the rims must have a pail of tire lub.... pay him a visit with an empty glass jar..... you only need about 8 ounces for a life time of fun and slippery snotty sliding. Lub the rim and the tire bead it will greatly facilitate the installation.

You can try a wire wheel in a drill to clean the thread of the studs and a wire brush for cleaning shotguns on the nuts.
I was lucky to find a used tap and die on Ebay for the BSF thread.

How good are they???? depends.... how badly corroded...... how many of them are rusted badly??? If you have any doubts better look around on the forum for spare rims..... cheaper than a crack up at speed.

Make sure you rims are bot to deeply pitted...... I have seen some with actual pin holes in the 1/4 steel.... you don't usually see them until a good sandblasting.

If you use the POR 15 coating..... you can also apply it to the visible side of the rims for greater protection BUT..... the POR is so hard and slick that paint will not stick to it unless you cover the POR with a tie coat... then after 24hours for the tie coat to dry ...paint with at least 2 coats of OD...... I get my paint from Peter de Bella, the jeep parts dealer, at $38 US a gallon...... I have been pleased with the Randolph paint.... # 34087 and I usually pick it up at the Weare show on Conn. and save shipping....

Rapco parts company from Texas also sells Gillespie paint @ 34087 Lusterless "Khaki" olive drab.....

Marcus at Jeep Acres North of Barry Ont. I beleive has various paint stock.

Good luck and show us some pictures of your project....

Tubes..... make sure they have the proper long stem...... a bit of rim lub on them will allow them to get stretched and fall in place easier.

Cheers

[rob love]

Back in the day, you applied feather dust to the tubes to stop them from folding over themselves and chafing. Nowadays, as there seems to be some distaste for naked chickens, thus feather dust is hard to find, just use talcum powder. Army foot powder will do just fine.

Otherwise I second pretty much everything Bob says and I'll stress his one point: get the proper tubes. Before I worked with this museum, they would send their tires downtown. Apparently the 90° valve on center tubes are hard to get, so they used regular valve off-center tubes and would drag the valve over to the center hole. I can assure you this works for between 2 days and two years. Get the right tubes.

Wallace Wade out of the US carries them and some heavily re-enforced flaps. I was able to track the tubes and flaps down to Doberman tire distribution in the US and brought up a couple dozen of each.