How To: Installing 9:00-16 tires on CMP wheels

[Bob Carriere]

Even the expensive machine needs to be relocated every 90 degrees of the rims to effectively release the bead from the rim.

Wooden blocks of various size become very handy.

Most of the retailers of bead breakers show them using a rubber lubricant in a spray bottle....could be as simple as a mild soapy water solution.

Cheers

[David Herbert]

Sorry but I have only just found this thread. This is a very good tutorial on the subject but can I add that I very much agree that it makes a huge difference if the rust pitted surface is cleaned up, made as smooth as possible and painted properly before you try to get the tyre to slide over it.

Also if air pressure is used to seat the tyre bead against the rim I prefer to let the air out again once the tyre is fully seated to let the tube even out where it is stretched. It can then be reinflated with the tube in a cavity that is pretty much its final shape and size which should reduce the stress on the tube. I do this by doing the first inflation without the valve, which speeds things up, and then putting the valve in for the final inflation.

David

[Bob Carriere]

The proper slow inflation of the tube is critical to avoiding creases in the tube wall.

We actually took a 900x16 tire off the rim and discovered inside an almost new, circa 1980, GoodYear tube that had a bad crease in the sole area and probably would have cause a blowout eventually. Interesting enough the Good Year tube had the following inscription...... 900x16 tires ....for 5 degree rims......

The crease had now become permanent and the rubber was showing signs of cracking.

On the tube inflation we do the following ... inflate the tube to full round before inserting into the tire carcass then allow to deflate while re-inserting the valve to retain "some" air inside. Having the tube valve removed greatly speeds up this simple operation.

Once the tube is inserted we add some air and manually spin adjust the tube stem with the indentation of the rim..... leftover of the "snoth" greatly facilitates moving the tube.

We then deflate the tube, but not totally, to allow installation of the flap.

then do the final reinflation... in slow stages..... listening for the creaking of the tube/flap/tire bead as everything falls in place.

I fully agree with you and would recommend a full deflation and re-inflation of the tire to minimize the chances of any parts being out of place.

Thanks for your comments/suggestions and will do a PS Edit to the slide section.

Bob C

[David Herbert]

Cheers Bob but some might think that 1980, being 35 years ago, is not that new ! Doesn't time fly !

David

[Peter Duggan]

Bob,

Thanks for taking the time and effort to share your thoughts on this subject. It's been quite enlightening. I'm almost looking forward to the challenges when I get around to the tires and wheels on the Lynx.

Peter

[Bob Carriere]

You are so right David....

...in the mid 60s I had dune buggies

....by the early 70s was dirt bikes

.... and by 72 was M 37 and the Outaouais 4x4 Club Sponsored by the Molson Brewery with free beers....
...and CMPs since 96.

..... it explains why I turned 73 today!!!!!!

Cheers

[Lynn Eades]

Well then, you deserve this wish: HAPPY BIRTHDAY BOB!!!!!!

from me, on the warm side (around the corner and down the hill)

(as opposed to over the hill)

73 and still fighting with 16inch tyres! Well done Bob, I hope you're still doing it in 10 years