C8 progress in Texas

[Bob Carriere]

Wonderful job David.

Can we bother you with some close up of the various joints and overlap and how you squeezed them.

Have you given any thought about the canvas.......?

I have always wondered how the top part of the canvass cover stays on top when the front and both sides are rolled up and tied with a strap. There has to be some kind of leather strap buckle that hold the deiling protion of the tarp in place.

On the side of your box do you have the little metal pegs for the leather straps from the tarp to push on to??

Love that sand-tan colour ....... so different from all the OD green.

PS...just looking at enlargements...... are your pipe joints threaded?????... don't tell me I have to buy more tools!!!!




Cheers

[Private_collector]

Wow. That looks really good, David.
You do exceptional work!

[rob love]

Bob: Most tarpaulins that I ever saw had the inside straps just above the lateral pipes. When you rolled up the sides the straps went around the lateral sperstructure pipe and then out and up to the top buckles. Same goes for the ends. The act of strapping up the sides holds the tarpaulin in place.

[gordon]

Canvas has to be next on the list then

[Alex van de Wetering]

That's some lovely work, David. Just like Bob I am also very interested to hear and see some more details of the frame.

Well done.

Alex

[cletrac (RIP)]

On the 2A1 the top centre pipe goes inside a built in pocket in the canvas then the pipe bolts in place.

[David DeWeese]

Thanks all for the replies!

The normal light weight electrical conduit can be bent fairly easy, but was too flimsy to make a decent top frame out of. The rigid conduit I used is heavier and threaded, but not as heavy as iron water pipe.

I borrowed a 3/4-inch pipe threader from my brother, cut and threaded each piece, and used the threaded connectors that are sold to use with this type of conduit to join everything. The curved pieces are sold already bent and threaded, and were the radius I wanted, so that worked out good.

The horizontal top pieces are the normal lighter conduit I flattened with a press to make the connection points with the bows. I used two 1-inch pieces of square bar stock on either side of the pipe to flatten the center connection points.

The rigid conduit is galvanized, so to make the paint stick I brushed on a phosphoric acid "metal prep" solution and waited overnight before painting..

I really haven't decided what to do about the canvas yet....any thoughts or suggestions?

Thanks, David

[Mike K]

Looks fantastic. Can you make one for me ?

The plumbers 3/4" gal. pipe is available in 3 wall thickness grades, so I've been told .

I tried a few experiments with a pipe bender on some 3/4 gal but the results were horrible .

The OD of the plumbers pipe here is around 1 and 1/16" . It has a seam internally .

re: the canvas , try to find some very heavy grade canvas , 24 oz, or heavier . I hate the look of thin canvas on these old vehicles , it just doesn't look right . And, don't be too worried about getting the stitching nice and neat , the rougher it looks the better .

[David DeWeese]

Thanks Mike,

Been browsing photos of the canvas top construction for the C8, and had a question about how it was held down on the sides. The photos show what looks like a metal strap that runs across the lower part of the canvas. Does this strap hold the canvas to the framework? If so, how?

Also been looking for canvas material, and the heaviest canvas I can find in the color I want is 12oz.
http://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/pro...n?cm_vc=-10005

Does anyone have a source for 24oz canvas in tan?

These canvas framework and canvas are fairly complicated for the 8cwt trucks. Still have to make the four folding legs for the framework, but I think I have that worked out.......maybe.

Thanks, David