M38a1 CDN2 - Winter Project

[Wayne Hingley]

I specifically avoided using POR15 because of all the sensitivities around its handling, preparation and application. I understand it is a great product when used correctly, but I didn't really want the risk of screwing it up.

When I purchased the Chassis Saver, the guy at the shop told me that I could apply my enamel paint directly over CS, once the CS has cured (I found out the curing time is 7 days). My due diligence may have been a bit light however, as I didn't really look in to the procedures for painting over the CS, beyond the conversation with the guy in the shop. I just sent a technical request related to this directly to CS, and I will post their response when I hear back from them. Fingers crossed...

[Wayne Hingley]

Through my local auto body supply store (who called the Chassis Saver rep while I was there), we found out that CS does not make a primer or coating to allow paint to adhere as an over-coat.

Paint will not bond to CS, and will peal off very easily. So... this changes my plans. While I really like the result achieved with CS, I do not want a black frame. Im considering a few different options, all of which include some sandblasting, epoxy primer & epoxy paint. More to follow soon.

[Peter Phillips]

That's a bummer, Wayne, it looks good! I bet that CS will be a pain to sandblast off. Wonder what other alternatives are out there if CS and POR15 have their own inherent issues? What type of grey paint did you use on the engine?

[Wayne Hingley]

Hi Peter, Yes its definitely a little bit of a setback. My original intention was to use a good quality epoxy primer and paint. However, I was talked in to using the CS, as the guy told me I could paint over it (my fault for not doing my homework first). Anyway, Im back to my original plan. I don't need a "specialized" frame paint for this vehicle, as it is not a daily driver and will not be subject to winter road salt etc. Im thinking of redoing the "outside" portions of the frame only, and leaving the CS on the inner (hard to get at) sections that you cannot see.

My original engine paint was in very good shape, and looked quite good once I cleaned it up (several hours of cleaning). I am still looking for a high-temp paint in the right shade of grey. Everything I have found in "high-temp" is some type of aluminum or silver color. I sprayed a light coat of Krylon "light machinery grey" over the entire block, but Im sure it will not last too long in the hot areas. The Krylon is basically an exact match to the original color. I will keep looking for the same shade in a high-temp paint.

[rob love]

Of course, the original colour was not grey. That was just the colour applied when the engines were rebuilt. Originally the engine would have been olive green with a black valve cover and the hurricane decal at the front of the valve cover.

The grey colour could vary depending on who did the rebuilds. The contract changed a couple of times, and as well 202 workshop was doing them for a spell, also in grey.

[Grant Bowker]

At different times both Ford and Chevrolet used grey paint on engine blocks although I'm not sure if the shade you need matches those colours. I'm not sure you need the "high temperature" paint often quoted as being for exhaust pipes and headers and ratedup to 1300 degrees. I would have thought something in the order of 300-500 degrees should be a high enough rating as I don't imagine the outside of the block should get any hotter than the oil and water inside the block. Several suppliers, Eastwood, Filling Station, Chevs of the 40s, Duplicolor, Hirsch, sell engine enamel in different versions of grey.

[45jim]

"Application Note: While Chassis Saver has incredible rust and corrosion resistance and can be used for all underbody applications without top coating, it is sensitive to UV light (sun) and its initial appearance will change over time. Its “RUST STOPPING” properties and corrosion resistance will never degrade but its color will shift from black to charcoal gray. Silver-aluminum remains very close to it’s original appearance. If aesthetics are important, Chassis Saver can and should be top coated with a quality industrial or automotive finish. Any opaque finish is effective. Clear coating is not recommended as protection. Suitable topcoats include any MAGNET Finishing System including 4800 Series Synthetic Urethane Enamels, MAGNACRYL™ 9000 Series Acrylic Enamels or MAGNATRON™ 5000 Series Acrylic Polyurethane Enamels. Call customer service or ask your local distributor for more information"

It looks like you can top coat this product as you would with POR 15. This was taken from the Magnet Paints website, perhaps the technical rep you spoke to was mistaken?

http://www.magnetpaints.com/underbody.asp

[Wayne Hingley]

Very interesting, thanks 45jim. I read that section in their technical bulletin a few weeks ago when I was seeking information about the procedure to apply finish top coats. I note that they indicate a list of siutable top coats: MAGNET 4800 Series Synthetic-Urethane Enamel, MAGNACRYL™ 9000 Series Acrylic Enamel or MAGNATRON™ 5000 Series Acrylic Polyurethane. I was unsuccessful in getting an actual procedure from CS, as their rep said top coating is not recommended. As you point out, it seems there is some misunderstanding or lack of product knowledge among their own product representatives.

I have been busy with work/travel, so I have not done anything further to my frame yet. I may reconsider my options, and/or do a small scale test to see how well coatings will adhere.