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  #1  
Old 10-03-16, 23:14
Alex van de Wetering Alex van de Wetering is offline
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Quote:
Now I am sure I have to remove it!!!
You're welcome, Bob

Thanks for the confirmation on the spring and clevis pin layout. This means that the setup on my C8 is original. I guess I was expecting some sort of washer to go between the spring end and the cast part coming from the master cylinder. Anyway, I will get a new clevis pin and drill the required holes to match the original worn pin.

Uh....my bad, I meant "pad", not "boot". I have heard rumours that for Dutch licence they would like to see a rubber pad in stead of blank steel on the pedals....as there is less risk of sliding of a rubber pad on the brake pedal.
Maybe it's just rumours, but I thought I would just buy a set of pads and fit them if necessary.....but the problem is that the pads I bought from the Filling Station are too big for the Cab11 pedals.


Quote:
On your pedal cluster is it possible that the shaft is now worn out of round
Exactly what i was thinking. So, if it helps....I am also disassembling the pedal cluster, this weekend...

Thanks Bob!
Alex
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  #2  
Old 11-03-16, 07:14
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
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Default To pad or not to pad.....

had rubber pads bolted through the pedals..... which I removed.

I might add a few welding zig zags for traction.

Let me know how you make out with the shaft.

Cheers
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  #3  
Old 11-03-16, 08:10
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Stefan Leegwater Stefan Leegwater is offline
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Hi Alex!

I think we have NOS chevrolet pedal pads. I will have a look Today if you want.

Mvg

Stefan
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  #4  
Old 11-03-16, 12:21
Alex van de Wetering Alex van de Wetering is offline
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Stefan,

Yes, please! As long as they fit the brake and clutch pedal of a cab11 C8 (I am not sure if cab 13 is the same size).

Alex
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Old 11-03-16, 18:39
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Stefan Leegwater Stefan Leegwater is offline
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Hi Alex,

They fit our C8 cab 12, so probably your cab 11 too!

Ciao,

Stefan
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  #6  
Old 20-03-16, 01:37
Alex van de Wetering Alex van de Wetering is offline
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Thanks Stefan! I have another good picture for your current project by the way......will send you an email.


The section of brake line that goes underneath the Radiator was originally secured with two spring type clips on my C8 . I found replacements for these at the filling station, but sadly one of them broke while trying to get it into the small holes of the crossmember. After fitting another I still wasn't very happy....the clips were a bit crooked and weren't really holding the brake line as they should. I presume GM used these spring type clips to allow some movement of the brake line while driving through terrain (P-clips and bolts were used on other locations), so I decided the way to go was a P-clip with a rubber insert to allow for some movement. I wasn't able to find any clips to my liking at the local parts store, so in the end I made some clips of my own.

I found some rubber hose at a Motorcycle parts shop that would just fit around the brake line, and cut this into sections of about 6cm. I cut strips from some 0,7mm sheet and used the vise, a chisel and a metal rod of the correct size to form the clips.


Alex
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Clips1.jpg (72.4 KB, 2 views)
File Type: jpg Clips2.jpg (111.9 KB, 3 views)
File Type: jpg Clips3.jpg (61.8 KB, 4 views)
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Old 20-03-16, 02:06
Alex van de Wetering Alex van de Wetering is offline
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Here is a question for the Cab 11 and 12 owners....

There seems to be a considerable gap between the inner footwell side panel and the arch bars (cab frame) on cab11/12s. This gap gathers all sorts of junk and moist and in case of my C8 this has resulted in partly rotten panels and pitting on the arch bars.
I intend to work on these inner panels soon, but I am trying to figure out what is original.........panel on top of the angle steel piece (with the door catch) and rubber or anti-squeak to fill the gap between the panel and arch bar?

Most of the restored and original examples I have seen show the configuration as in the pictures attached....panel on top of the angle steel piece (with the door catch), but I have also seen two trucks where restorers have placed the panel between the arch bar and the angle steel.....this actually gives a better fit, even though I think the original configuration is on top...as shown in the pictures. Any ideas?


Alex
Attached Images
File Type: jpg panels1.jpg (67.7 KB, 4 views)
File Type: jpg panels2.jpg (82.8 KB, 3 views)
File Type: jpg panels3.jpg (90.7 KB, 2 views)
File Type: jpg panels4.jpg (86.4 KB, 2 views)
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  #8  
Old 20-03-16, 04:58
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
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Default Desperation.....

.... the mother of invention and resourcefulness.....

.......way to go Alex.

I finished putting on the front of my truck today.... in desperation I attempted to use metric (Chinese) clip on nuts on the sheet metal that fits between the fenders just below the grill.

I gave up and ripped them out and welded some captive nuts..... now the part is on has it should be.

First time the nose is back on in 12 years...... yeah I am slow.....

Pictures to follow...

Bob C
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  #9  
Old 05-04-16, 01:26
Alex van de Wetering Alex van de Wetering is offline
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I have found a longer clevis pin for the brake pedal return spring.....it's actually a "classic" mini clutch part and plenty are being offered on Ebay. I just have to drill the hole in the right location and cut the pin to the correct length.
I intend on re-using the brake return spring for now, but will get a new spring for the future.

A while ago I bought a replacement gauge cluster in order to use parts from this and my original C8 gauge cluster (which is in a very sorry state) to get one complete set.....but look at the speedo range....

Alex
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Clevis pin.jpg (168.5 KB, 2 views)
File Type: jpg gauge1.jpg (170.8 KB, 6 views)
File Type: jpg gauge2.jpg (162.5 KB, 1 views)
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  #10  
Old 15-06-16, 00:01
Alex van de Wetering Alex van de Wetering is offline
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I had another look at the clutch pedal and pedal shaft, that was discussed on the previous page. The bushing set that I bought from the filling station consisted of two bushings, so I still had one left. I decided to try and fit the second bushing, buy a new reamer and see if carefully reaming the bushing would solve the issue. Sadly it didn't, the pedal was still moving around too much and after measuring the shaft with a caliper I found the shaft to be oval and also the surface to be slighly curved (yes, in the wrong direction).

So, I brought the shaft and pedal to the guy that also manufactured the new tie rod. He machined the end of the shaft round again and made a new bushing to fit the pedal. I had the parts back in a few days, so I was able to re-fit the parts last saterday and I am really happy now with the pedal movement!!!! I don't know why it took me a year to finally go ahead and get the pedals sorted....

The first picture shows the "old" bushing and the shaft and pedal after I picked them up from the machine shop. the other pictures show the pedals installed. Also shown is the (classic) Mini clevis pin (shortened to size, and with new hole drilled)....and the lot installed with the return spring.

Also shown is a sneak peek of the floors. More in the next update.

Alex
Attached Images
File Type: jpg pedals1.jpg (215.8 KB, 3 views)
File Type: jpg pedals2.jpg (190.4 KB, 2 views)
File Type: jpg pedals3.jpg (220.9 KB, 7 views)
File Type: jpg pedals4.jpg (173.6 KB, 4 views)
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