M38a1 CDN2 - Winter Project

[Wayne Hingley]

Here is a followup to the last few posts regarding products that will stick to Chassis Saver. I tried two different tests on my frame as follows:
- POR Tie Coat Primer: Sprayed on. Still felt a bit soft 24hrs after. However, three days later it was hard as a rock, and I could not easily mark it with a scraper. I would say it bonds very well to Chassis Saver.
- Red oxide primer: Red oxide dries quite fast, and it also passed my test with a metal scraper within a couple of hours of application.

I am confident that both of these products bond well to CS, and I do not have any concerns. I guess I have a long term test underway, because I have moved on to applying my enamel paint. If anyone wants a "long term" update on this test... contact me in the future sometime... haha.

[Wayne Hingley]

Hi Stuart. There is not much science behind the temporary spray area I made. I simply hung some plastic tarps from the rails of one of my overhead doors. I left a bit of an air gap (~12") between the tarps and the floor to allow airflow, and a place for the fumes to drop and exit. I also put a plastic tarp on the floor to catch the overspray and any drips/mess. When Im spraying, I wear a 3M half-face respirator mask with two filters, and I leave a couple of doors open enough to create a crossflow of air. I don't have a lot of room around the edge of the scaffolding... probably only 2-3 feet around the edge (you dont really need much). For lighting, I just have a combination of the overhead fluorescent lights and a couple of halogen work-lights on floor stands (at about waist-chest height). You can see one of the work-lights in the photos above. Hope that helps.

[Wayne Hingley]

This body had several reinforcement plates added to it by the CF as shown in some of my earlier photos (refer to post #14). In the short term, I believe the intent of these plates was to make the jeep last a few more years in service (early 80's). However, they created a bunch of damage to certain parts of the body when they did these modifications (hidden under the reinforcement plates).

With the frame painting complete, I have turned over to fixing some of the damaged body sections. Im in the process of making up a few new body sections that I will butt-weld into place where the ugliest damage was (under the doors, and around the tail lights). The good part is the jeep is essentially rust-free, so once I cut out the bumpy/damaged parts, its all solid.

By the way: I wish they still made vehicles with 14ga sheet metal on the sides!

[Wayne Hingley]

Progress has been a bit slow over the past several months, as other priorities have consumed my time.

I finally got around to cleaning and painting the differentials and mounting the frame back on. A few photos before installing the transmission (hopefully tonight), and engine (soon).

I'm still not 100% decided on the final paint color (semi-gloss OD, or 3-color camo), but either way the frame has a glossy coat of OD that will make a good base of protection, no mater what comes later. This is similar to the way the jeep would have started out new.

[Wayne Hingley]

A few more...

[Wayne Hingley]

New clutch set and engine dropped into place.

[Wayne Hingley]

Most of the chassis parts and pieces back in place.