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  #1  
Old 15-05-16, 11:24
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Tony Baker
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Wide Bay, QLD, Australia.
Posts: 1,819
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Several minor things achieved today.
20160515_172653-resized-1280.jpg 20160515_172500-resized-1280.jpg
The seat is wearing coat 1 of 4 or 5 coats of varnish, wand will get a light sanding between each coat. The seat is quite nice timber, though I'm sure that was not a consideration at time of manufacture.
20160515_172330-resized-1280.jpg
Slide rule brackets are finished and painted, but not yet attached.
I had intentions of putting the upper shield back on today, and the brackets would have gone on shortly thereafter, but I lost some time working on something else. Next post is dedicated to that one.
20160515_172634-resized-1280.jpg
Second color is now applied to the artillery unit signage. Despite numerous layers of masking tape, some of the solvent caused the blue (applied last weekend) to react with the initial layer of tape, resulting in a slight change in texture. I started to polish this out with cutting compound, and found it heavily scratched the surface. I put a stop to that pretty damn quickly, but not before making another job for myself later on. I'll probably end up sanding both red & blue with 1200 w & d, then applying a satin clear over the whole thing. This will have to be done before I can spray the flat white colored unit number. Figures!
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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still)
Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder)
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  #2  
Old 15-05-16, 12:50
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Tony Baker
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Wide Bay, QLD, Australia.
Posts: 1,819
Default 25 pounder axle and wheels.

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This is my freshly acquired 25 pounder axle and wheel set. The only thing missing is the handbrake lever and tube that makes both sides brake shoes actuate at once. I can make one of those, and I have a few handbrake levers of different sizes to choose a suitable looking one from.

Many thanks to the MLU member who contacted me to say he had this for sale . And he was only a lazy 3hr drive away, too! Mrs B and I enjoyed the drive, and we met another great member of the MLU community. Just wished we had more time to chat before the drive home again. I haven't asked permission to mention who I got the axle from, but he can identify himself, if willing to do so. Certainly saved me some angst, and my project will be so much the better for his help.
20160515_165343-resized-1280.jpg
And this is why I didn't get as far with the other things I intended to do today. I had an urge to see if I could get a wheel off it's hub, and settled in for a potentially drawn out period removing wheel nuts. In reality, they all came away without any problem. I was even able to undo one nut by fingers alone after about 3/4 turn with the spanner. That's ridiculous for something which must have been sitting for christ knows how many years! With the wheel now off, I started work on removing the remains of the tyre. As usual, it was virtually welded to the rim. The above photo will attest to all the work I put in with the angle grinder to cut one side away before severing the bead entirely. No manner of belting or leavering would break the tyre bead from the wheel BEFORE it was cut through. Once that was done, it almost fell off by itself! Well, OK, maybe not fall off as such, but one strike with a cold chisel and I was ready to start on the other side. The smell of burning rubber with using a grinder on a tyre, is something I'm still recovering from. I swear I can still taste it, let alone smell it. Disgusting aroma. The neighbours must hate me after today. N.B: The tyre had a gaping hole ripped in it before I started using the grinder, or I would NEVER have attempted it. I recall wisdom told to me way back when I first joined the forum, regarding pyrolysis and explosions therefrom. Didn't wish to go there.
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I wasn't really ready to see this amount of rust scale inside the wheel, and I do admit my heart sank for a moment or two. After a few well placed whacks with the cold chisel (still laying in proximity, after tyre removal), I felt a bit happier.
20160515_165353-resized-1280.jpg
There is still plenty of good thick metal left in place. The wheel WILL carry some 'scars' of age, but should be OK to use. I'll attack it properly with a descaler next weekend, before sending it off for the mandatory sandblasting.

Got the pulling rings on each side moving freely after very little effort, and I really, really wanted to take the hub off as well, but ran out of daylight. The hub turns freely though, without any grinding noise. If I spun it hard and applied the brake, it stops immediately. No strange grating or grinding noises, ........It just stops. Hopefully this means brake shoes are still in good usable condition.

Incidentally, my 900x16 tyres, the ones that gave me grief trying to get them onto CMP rims, they're gonna give me trouble getting them onto these wheels as well. I know, I tried one with no success. Possibly a trained fitter may have better luck, because they are perfect look for this project.
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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still)
Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder)
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  #3  
Old 16-05-16, 10:54
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Tony Baker
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Wide Bay, QLD, Australia.
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20160516_172734-resized-1280.jpg
Upper shield panel is back on.
20160516_172824-resized-1280.jpg
The artillery sign now has 3 coats of clear over the colors.
I'll flatten it back, before the numbers are added (sprayed, not vinyl sheet)
20160516_172953-resized-1280.jpg
Seat is finished. It got 4 coats of varnish in total.
20160516_172855-resized-1280.jpg
The C B reflectors work. Spooky!

Second wheel is now off it's hub.
The hub on this side is currently stuck fast,........so the game is afoot .
I may cut the tyre off the second wheel tomorrow afternoon, if I get home before dark & feel like coughing up another lung full of burnt rubber smoke.
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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still)
Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder)
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  #4  
Old 16-05-16, 11:57
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Euan McDonald Euan McDonald is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Eltham, Victoria, Australia.
Posts: 627
Default Smoke

Tony, save your lung and try a jigsaw instead. I drill a start hole then run the jigsaw around the tyre.
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Euan McDonald
4? C-GT (Aust) #8
44 C-GT (Aust) #9
42 Jeep, Trailer Aust 3
Welbike MK2 complete
Welbike MK2 inconplete under resto
C15A x3
C60S x1 ex ambo
F60L x3
LP2a carrier SAR #4993.
Trailer No27 Limber
Trailer, Cario cargo
Trailer, Pontoon semi
Wiles Cooker 2 wheeled (jnr)
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  #5  
Old 16-05-16, 12:05
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Tony Baker
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Wide Bay, QLD, Australia.
Posts: 1,819
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Absolutely, Euan! I'll give that a trot. I have a few spare blades around the workshop.

It's gotta be better than smokin the tyre (I do actually wear a mask though). Makes me sound like darth Vader!

One day I must tell you folks the story of how, in my late teens, a friend and I concocted a scheme to make my Honda ACTY van smoke it's 10" wheels like a drag car. Put the local V8 wankers to shame, it really did!
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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still)
Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder)
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  #6  
Old 21-05-16, 16:01
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Tony Baker
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Wide Bay, QLD, Australia.
Posts: 1,819
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Folks,

Is there any trick/s to removing the hubs from my 25pdr axle?
Are any of the bolts/nuts I need to remove, that are LH thread?

Thanks,
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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still)
Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder)
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  #7  
Old 23-05-16, 16:00
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Phillip Phillip is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Western Australia
Posts: 174
Default Wheel removal

Tony,

Remove the 5/16 BSF studs, and remove the bearing cap - the axle nut is underneath.

Regards
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Phillip Thompson

"He who has the tiger by the tale, is often afraid to let go" - Confucius

Ford FGT No.9 (long suffering restoration project)
25 Pdr (Under Restoration)
No.27 Artillery Trailer (Under Restoration)
Bit and pieces of a 2 pdr AT (Looking for bits)
LP2a Carrier - 3" Mortar Trials (Restored)
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