25 Pounder info needed.

[Ken Smith]

Good day Tony,
That is amazing how good all that looks. I would guess that after the axle was demobbed it would have been used on a farm trailer for many years, but by your description of the bearings and linings didn't travel very far.
I always thought the stub axles were part of the main axle, you learn something new everyday.
The remainder of the project is looking pretty good, I like your attention to detail.
Ken

[Private_collector]

G'day Ken! Yes, I agree. Not much work done by this axle in past decades, at least not as far as neglect goes, anyway. I expected the stubs were a part of the total tube length too.

Still a number of areas which had original green paint also.

I dips me lid to the gentleman I bought this off!

[Private_collector]

The gun axle, stubs, hubs, and one wheel, are now with the sandblaster. The second wheel isn't yet liberated from one tyre bead. I'll get that to my guy when I pick the other bits up next Wednesday. In addition to media blasting and industrial coating, he does 'hot zinc spraying'. This is a process I didn't know existed until he enlightened me yesterday. It involves drawing a wire of pure zinc out of a drum, (where it is stored coiled) and it gets liquefied in a type of spray gun, and virtually spat/sprayed onto a bare metal substrate. The surface then becomes literally zinc coated! Unbelievable. I hope to be on the spot when he uses this, some day soon. Sounds fascinating. When the axle is reassembled, welding will begin on the trails.

These two books arrived in the mail today. Now we're cooking! Lots of reading in my immediate future. N.B: They are reproductions, NOT original, unfortunately.

I am looking for the following parts for my gun: Wheel nuts x3, inner hub grease seals x2, and a 25 pdr brake lever. If you have any of these for sale, please get in touch with me. I will be happy to negotiate purchase.

What do you think of these?

When I was a kid, I had a remote control tank. Well, not actually 'remote' controlled, it had a hand control box that held batteries and a wire ran down to the tank itself. I loved that little tank. Then one day it broke, never to go again. I was gutted.

I only wish tanks like these were available back then. Have bought these 3 tanks over past months, and they are such fun to play with. They sound real, look great, have quite acceptable detailing. They even blow smoke out of the exhausts! They also shoot BBs, fast, and I wouldn't recommend standing in front of one when it fires, either. Those BBs really fly, and the tank recoils, accompanied by a passable firing sound. Good fun.

[David Dunlop]

Heng Long, Tony?

David

[Private_collector]

Yeah David. They're not bad, if you get the option of track and gearbox upgrade to metal.
Don't get the 27mhz radios either. The more modern ones have superior 2.4ghz transmitters, with better sound.

I didn't bother with upgrades for my jagdpanther. nazis don't deserve the good stuff!

[David Dunlop]

I got hooked on them a few years back, Tony. Have a Tiger I in the basement, along with a five drawer dresser full of upgrade parts for it, mostly Tamiya. Great fun, but a very long project in waiting I fear. While working on it I discovered there was also a huge interest in the 1/6 and 1/4 scale stuff, which looks quite impressive when on the move. Typically all metal fabrication.

Still not as much fun as the original 1:1 stuff, however.

Enjoy!


David

[Phillip]

Tony,

The grease seals are an off the shelf item - any good bearing supplier should have a modern equivalent.

The wheel nuts are the same as blitz, just watch the thread pitch as there seems to be some slight variation.

[Mike Cecil]

The 1/6th scale Armortek stuff is very impressive. I've been advising a guy in the UK with his Centurion Mk5/1 build - the basic kit then 'super detailed' to produce a scale model of a particular Australian tank as it was configured in South Vietnam in 1969.

If you are into models it is worth a look .....

http://www.armortek.co.uk/Forum3b/vi...4b79e8c#p51767

Armortek also produce a 1/6th 25-pdr under their Kompact Kit label. It's the closest to a 1:1 25-pdr that I'll ever have!

Mike

[Private_collector]

Thanks Phillip, I will speak with my local bearing shop early next week.
I tried a couple of CMP wheel nuts on the gun hub but they didn't fit. Felt like they would cross thread if I pushed them any further than the half turn I coul move them by hand. I'll try a few more nuts.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1-6-Giant...oAAOSwc1FXYZtS

Mike, there is a 1:6 Sherman on ebay now. Made of fibreglass and with petrol/gas engine. Price is $1900AUD. Quite heavy, and too large to be easily manhandled into back of the car. At least I can pick up the 1:16 ones. Also seen an assembled Armortek 25pr gun on ebay recently. Starting price was initially £800, but after a couple of weeks without selling......the price went UP to £850!!!!!! A stroke of marketing genius. Dont know if it eventually sold, but now I see another one up for sale. Definately NOT same gun, because this one is a kit requiring assembly, whereas the first one was already built.

I would love an Armortek tank, but $$$ and shipping weight make than an impossible scenario.

[Private_collector]

Didn't get the axle parts back on Wednesday, as was originally hoped. A medical appointment went way over time beforehand, so I didn't get there before his closing time. Next opportunity is Monday. I know they are done, I saw them there the day before, but didn't have the trailer attached, so could not retrieve anything then.

With the advice from Phillip that the inner hub grease seals were available, I called in on my local bearing shop yesterday afternoon. I must admit, I was trying not to have too high expectations. I have been disappointed before. You know the type of scenario, 'yeah, we used to be able to get those, but they stopped making them', or some such tripe. I was to be very pleasantly surprised. Not only are they available, but they happened to have some in stock. Two of them, in fact. Just the quantity I wanted! Additionally pleasing was the price, $10 each.

Original seal has 2625 on it, and SITS PRECISION OIL SEAL as well. There is a patent no. but I cannot make it out.

New seal is Alliance Sealing, TC12220. The number C5203 is on a seperate sticker, as seen in the above photo/s. Hopefully the photos and above information will be of use to someone.

Added afterwards: I have found some numbers on side of the new seals. These I suspect would be the dimensions, in imperial measurement. "2.625 3.750 0.500" I believe these are ID, OD, and Thickness.

[Private_collector]

Had cause to travel to Brisbane this morning. While down there, I decided to buy another tank.

The vendor is same I have bought from in the past. Nice chap, who does me a good deal. I pickup on my way through his neighbourhood.

The collection is growing, much to my Wifes dismay.
These little things are great! Can't believe I didn't discover them sooner.

At time of writing this, it is about 0005hrs here, and I have just finished adding all the detail and accessories onto the tank. We have had a very mild winter.........until now. In checking my weather station I see it is already below 3 degrees Celsius. By sunrise it could have gone below freezing point. Have just stepped outside onto the lanai to see how cold it feels, and I didn't hang around there long. Time to hit the hay, with an extra blanket, for sure.

[Private_collector]

They're back!

Now to find the time to paint em.

Also discovered from the sandblaster, there is a fellow just out of town that has 25pdr stuff. I will try to get in touch with him when I can. Wouldn't expect anything to be for sale, but you never know.

[Private_collector]

I have just finished sewing my version of the guns slide rule bag. It will have three press studs to keep it closed.

The rule itself will unfortunately be a simple piece of aluminium, cut to size. It won't be seen. I have not been successful in acquiring the real thing. If one presents itself, it will fit, but I doubt that will eventuate.

Wanna hear something funny? I ordered (and received) a number of footman loops recently, solely because I couldn't find the ones I already had. Since getting the fresh lot, I have put them away safely. Yep, you guessed it, I'll have to search for those too. The Bermuda triangle is alive and living in my workshop.......somewhere.

I plan to paint the axle parts and wheels tomorrow. As always, weather permitting.

Bryce is home from the army until next Sunday, so spending time with him will be the main priority. We don't get the opportunity to reunite the family very often, and he will be gone again all too soon.

If anyone has good photos of the brass bracket the dial sight attaches to, I would be very grateful to see them. I'll need to make one of those from scratch. Won't be perfectly same as original, but must be functional, because I want to attach the sight to it securely. If anyone has a genuine bracket for sale, please write me via PM. I'm prepared to pay handsomely to avoid all the effort of making an inferior copy!

Many thanks.

[Private_collector]

Axle and hubs painted. Wheels part painted. Yet to do the outsides of those. Wet paint made turning them over unwise.

Rule case is finished, but I ran out of day before I got it fastened onto the shield.

Found em!

[Private_collector]

In my search for reference images to aid my progress, I've found these interesting and dramatic photos.

My obvious thought is, wouldn't the shell be deformed.....even a little, while causing such damage to the armour? Incidentally, the target of this attention was stated to have been a german tank, WWII.

Best photo of the Illuminating apparatus case I have found thus far!

[Private_collector]

Well, Bryce has gone back to his barracks, and we are back to being a couple....instead of the family we have been this last week. In all likelihood, the next time we're together will be at Bryces graduation from his theory/initial training stage. That could be around September, give or take a few weeks.

I reattached the 25pr axle stubs this afternoon. Lots of tightening nuts with open ended spanner.....carefully, so I don't damage paint. There isn't enough clearance to get a ring spanner or socket over them.



I hope this is the correct way these seal retainers go onto the wheel hub. It was the one thing I don't think I photoraphed when I dismantled everything. They're not going on permanently yet. Bearings need to be regreased and set in place first.


I have ordered this collection of genuine parts from Canada. Not cheap, with the shipping fee, but the parts cost themselves was quite reasonable.

[Wayne Henderson]

Hi Tony,
You would have found out by now that hubs are either left or right thread wheel nuts. If you intend to tow this project make sure you have the hubs on the correct sides. I've seen this mistake made before and wheels do come off.
Treat the towing end as front.

[Private_collector]

Hi Wayne,

Yes, the 'travelling front', as opposed to 'firing front'. I got those terms from my manual! My axle set is with the No. 19 wheels on both sides. Possibly had a No. 14 on left side once, but this has been converted to right-hand sided No. 19 wheel before I got it. IE: Both sides are marked R on all studs and wheel nuts, regardless of side. See attached text image copied from my handbook.

It confuses me at times. Some of it is like listening to Charlie Brown's teacher.....wamp, wamp, wamp. I hope I haven't misunderstood what was written, but end result is same, all bolts are right hand threads.

I got one of the hubs on this afternoon. Lots of lovely grease everywhere, including all over me. The other hub isn't ready to attach yet, because the brake linings bind against the drum somewhere. Difficult to turn until I get some clearance. If I try to turn the hub, I'm sure the entire axle assembly will fall off my jack stands instead. Can't set hub nut pressure if I can't turn the wheel.

I am on the lookout for 3 right-hand sided wheel nuts. Some of mine were missing. If anyone has some for sale, I'll buy em.

[Private_collector]

Finally! The slide rule bag and associated hardware are permanently on the upper shield.

The brackets turned out really well. I made em, but had a neighbour do the majority of welding. I did weld the bolts onto the backs myself, so I expect that bit has the tensile strength of plasticine.

I wish the paint was dry enough for me to make the correct length canvas straps. Tomorrow maybe.

Despite the constant threat of rain, the day held together long enough for me to paint the outsides of my wheels. They're a bugger of a thing to get good coverage under the five lugs around the lip. Had to narrow the fan pattern on the spray gun, and aim from beyond the opposite side of the wheel. It's a fine line between too dry and too thick application, but it's OK. Wish I could get the exact color in powder coat. Would have done thst instead of spraying.

P.S: It's still the same cheap spray gun I've been using from start of the CMP restoration. That was $30 or $40 well spent!

With the leftover mixed (and hardened) paint, I spent a lazy 2hrs brushing paint onto all the bolts on the shield and both axle stubs. The second of my wheel hubs/drums is now in place. I had to whittle down one of the brake shoes on that side, before it would go together. Sandblaster has put the thing down heavily on the edge of the shoe, at some point and it deformed the lining, making it sit up. Had to be very mindful that these are probably made with asbestos, so the linings were sprayed with hydrogen di-oxide and kept dripping wet through the whole procedure. That way there are no airborne fibres/fibers.


Tracking tells me my small group of parts from Canada have arrived in Sydney, as of Friday 15th. The package was sent in the afternoon of the 11th, so 4 days to Australia. I wonder how many days it will take to travel the last 1200km. I expect it will take longer than Canada post took ot get it to this side of the world. I'm gonna say.......about Thursday it gets to me!

Am planning to get tyres on my wheels during the week, all going well.

Another piece of exciting new, a kind friend is allowing me access to the brake actuating components from his own 25pr, and I will get those in next couple of weeks or so. The parts will get copied as close as I can. Guess I'll be making more templates! I do like my templates.

[Private_collector]

A few more small pieces have now arrived in the mail, including my job-lot from Canada. See post #136. Seems I owe Australia post an apology. Only three days from interstate airport. That's not bad. The Canadian parts got to me yesterday, and last night I kicked off with cleaning em up a bit.

The level....thingy came up ok, but should really be green, according to the original state. I will paint it with next spray job. The spirit bubble glass got broken in transit. I don't know if I want to remove one end cap to replace it, so it may have to stay that way.

The above piece was more work than it looks! Lots of cleaning grunge and rust off, before acid treating the ferrous part (with Gun Blue). Redoing all the writing was finicky and time consuming. Incidentally, the piece with Tangent Elevation was a pleasant surprise. It wasn't in any of the advertised photos, that I recall, so that was a nice little bonus! I still need to acquire the measuring scale that attaches to the two screws along below the brass numbers (and S for Super Charge). One thing usually leads to another, but I'm OK with that. It's part of the fun. If I don't find one, I'll make a bodge from aluminium strip, until one surfaces.

Not sure which part to clean next, the hand wheel or range scale cone. On the topic of the latter, when I made the purchase I noted the cone had screws on it. My other cone is one solid piece of aluminium. No screws. This new one looks to be same solid piece of aluminium, with another very thin layer of metal (? what type of metal) wrapped over and secured with those screws. Did they ammend the original type by adding an 'update' system over the old one? I'm not curious enough to undo the screws though. Might not get them back on again!

Took me a little while to realise what this adjusting knob is. It will take much longer to get it back into usable condition. I see a little molasses giving me a hand with that job. At least I can mix it up in a glass jar and watch it work over whatever time it takes to do the task. I'm betting it's a few weeks, actually.

This turned up today. I had forgotten I even bought it, but did so on a whim. I assume it's a pull through rope for barrel cleaning, right? Won't really need one. My barrel is blocked at breach end (except for a small steel tube & a spark plug ), and will have several rods welded across inner barrel tube at muzzle end, so there's NO WAY any projectile can be ejected. The rope and weight contraption can just go into the little canvas bag on back of lower shield. Saw a wire cleaning brush on ebay a few weeks ago, but missed it. It would have found a home in same bag. Next time!

[Private_collector]

Cone is cleaning up OK. A little more work to be done yet, to dull the finish down a bit.

There are some light dents that are not able to be removed, and a few scratches, but it's quite presentable. Must get my other one out and compare the two.


Ordered this bore cleaning brush set a few minutes ago.

[Private_collector]

The axle is now reassembled wheel to wheel.

Several of the original wheel nuts did NOT wish to go back on again.
Their resolution in that regard was unwavering, so I didn't force the issue. I'll run a tap through them, and look for replacement of some which were missing entirely.

I do like the look of the chosen tyres. They will do just fine.
Pity they don't show more enthusiasm for going onto CMP wheels.




Now taken a good look at my old ranging cone. It is in better shape than the recently acquired one, so will be the one which gets used, eventually! The main body of sight mounting assembly won't be with me for a little while yet, but it'll get here!

Another batch of minor parts should be on the way soon. Some for sight assembly, some not. Between brake parts offered for measuring, and what I have bought recently, I should be able to make a reasonable replication of the original system.

[Keith Webb]

Which hand thread are you missing Tony?

[Private_collector]

Hi Keith,

I need right hand threads.

T

[Keith Webb]

Like a pack of these right hand thread ones? I'll send you a PM.

[Keith Webb]

Originally Posted by Keith Webb

Like a pack of these right hand thread ones? I'll send you a PM.

Hopefully this worked.

Edit: Didn't seem to even though it uploaded OK - I'll just send the PM.

[David Dunlop]

Tony.

Maybe it's just the angle differences between the two photos you took, but the broad ends of the two Ranging Cones you have look as if they are marked differently.

Are they different, or is it just me after a very long day?


David

[Private_collector]

Hi David,

You are correct. Tonight I will photograph both side by side to show the differences.


Keith,

I got your photo.

[Private_collector]

This is number 5

Largest tank I've bought yet.

My only lament, I can't find anyone who makes a WWI tank in 1:16 remote control.
Armortek have made one (now soldout I believe) BUT they are extremely heavy, much bigger physically, and massively expensive.

[Private_collector]

I've been a little poor with the 'before' photos, I'm sorry.

Things like the traverse handwheel, above. Remember this piece, because it will very soon be mated with it's correct mechanism, thanks to parcel received from Rob N during past week.

The silver measuring scale in second photo is another item from Rob. Like the handwheel, I started the cleaning process without thought to taking a before shot. I took to this with a fine sandpaper (wet & dry paper), and did so under running water in the shower. Mrs B was not greatly impressed.....again. She said I hope you didn't get dirt and grease all over the shower. To which I replied, that's not dirt, it's history. Later in the evening I got a bollocking, because, and I quote "You've got history all over the shower floor!"

The above piece, being the part that joins range scale cone and sliding pointer assembly in photo 2, didn't require much cleaning. It's comprised of two parts. The outer, main piece, bolts to the body of the sliding scale. The second part fits to the apex of the cone, and is slightly thicker/deeper than the bushed hole of the first part. This being the case, the cone is still able to rotate when tightened.

The preceding 2 photos are an original package of 8 RH wheel nuts, which came courtesy of Keith Webb, still covered (perhaps Encased is a better word) in decades old tropical proofing. Will be a shame to open the pack, but I can't get them on a hub how they are.

All going well, today I should get a few more small bits ready for paint.
Will be mindful of photographing the 'before' states.