25 Pounder info needed.

[Private_collector]

In my search for reference images to aid my progress, I've found these interesting and dramatic photos.
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My obvious thought is, wouldn't the shell be deformed.....even a little, while causing such damage to the armour? Incidentally, the target of this attention was stated to have been a german tank, WWII.
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Best photo of the Illuminating apparatus case I have found thus far!

[Private_collector]

Well, Bryce has gone back to his barracks, and we are back to being a couple....instead of the family we have been this last week. In all likelihood, the next time we're together will be at Bryces graduation from his theory/initial training stage. That could be around September, give or take a few weeks.
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I reattached the 25pr axle stubs this afternoon. Lots of tightening nuts with open ended spanner.....carefully, so I don't damage paint. There isn't enough clearance to get a ring spanner or socket over them.
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I hope this is the correct way these seal retainers go onto the wheel hub. It was the one thing I don't think I photoraphed when I dismantled everything. They're not going on permanently yet. Bearings need to be regreased and set in place first.
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I have ordered this collection of genuine parts from Canada. Not cheap, with the shipping fee, but the parts cost themselves was quite reasonable.
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[Wayne Henderson]

Hi Tony,
You would have found out by now that hubs are either left or right thread wheel nuts. If you intend to tow this project make sure you have the hubs on the correct sides. I've seen this mistake made before and wheels do come off.
Treat the towing end as front.

[Private_collector]

Hi Wayne,

Yes, the 'travelling front', as opposed to 'firing front'. I got those terms from my manual! My axle set is with the No. 19 wheels on both sides. Possibly had a No. 14 on left side once, but this has been converted to right-hand sided No. 19 wheel before I got it. IE: Both sides are marked R on all studs and wheel nuts, regardless of side. See attached text image copied from my handbook.
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It confuses me at times. Some of it is like listening to Charlie Brown's teacher.....wamp, wamp, wamp. I hope I haven't misunderstood what was written, but end result is same, all bolts are right hand threads.
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I got one of the hubs on this afternoon. Lots of lovely grease everywhere, including all over me. The other hub isn't ready to attach yet, because the brake linings bind against the drum somewhere. Difficult to turn until I get some clearance. If I try to turn the hub, I'm sure the entire axle assembly will fall off my jack stands instead. Can't set hub nut pressure if I can't turn the wheel.

I am on the lookout for 3 right-hand sided wheel nuts. Some of mine were missing. If anyone has some for sale, I'll buy em.

[Private_collector]

Finally! The slide rule bag and associated hardware are permanently on the upper shield.
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The brackets turned out really well. I made em, but had a neighbour do the majority of welding. I did weld the bolts onto the backs myself, so I expect that bit has the tensile strength of plasticine.
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I wish the paint was dry enough for me to make the correct length canvas straps. Tomorrow maybe.
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Despite the constant threat of rain, the day held together long enough for me to paint the outsides of my wheels. They're a bugger of a thing to get good coverage under the five lugs around the lip. Had to narrow the fan pattern on the spray gun, and aim from beyond the opposite side of the wheel. It's a fine line between too dry and too thick application, but it's OK. Wish I could get the exact color in powder coat. Would have done thst instead of spraying.
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P.S: It's still the same cheap spray gun I've been using from start of the CMP restoration. That was $30 or $40 well spent!

With the leftover mixed (and hardened) paint, I spent a lazy 2hrs brushing paint onto all the bolts on the shield and both axle stubs. The second of my wheel hubs/drums is now in place. I had to whittle down one of the brake shoes on that side, before it would go together. Sandblaster has put the thing down heavily on the edge of the shoe, at some point and it deformed the lining, making it sit up. Had to be very mindful that these are probably made with asbestos, so the linings were sprayed with hydrogen di-oxide and kept dripping wet through the whole procedure. That way there are no airborne fibres/fibers.
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Tracking tells me my small group of parts from Canada have arrived in Sydney, as of Friday 15th. The package was sent in the afternoon of the 11th, so 4 days to Australia. I wonder how many days it will take to travel the last 1200km. I expect it will take longer than Canada post took ot get it to this side of the world. I'm gonna say.......about Thursday it gets to me!

Am planning to get tyres on my wheels during the week, all going well.

Another piece of exciting new, a kind friend is allowing me access to the brake actuating components from his own 25pr, and I will get those in next couple of weeks or so. The parts will get copied as close as I can. Guess I'll be making more templates! I do like my templates.

[Private_collector]

A few more small pieces have now arrived in the mail, including my job-lot from Canada. See post #136. Seems I owe Australia post an apology. Only three days from interstate airport. That's not bad. The Canadian parts got to me yesterday, and last night I kicked off with cleaning em up a bit.
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The level....thingy came up ok, but should really be green, according to the original state. I will paint it with next spray job. The spirit bubble glass got broken in transit. I don't know if I want to remove one end cap to replace it, so it may have to stay that way.
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The above piece was more work than it looks! Lots of cleaning grunge and rust off, before acid treating the ferrous part (with Gun Blue). Redoing all the writing was finicky and time consuming. Incidentally, the piece with Tangent Elevation was a pleasant surprise. It wasn't in any of the advertised photos, that I recall, so that was a nice little bonus! I still need to acquire the measuring scale that attaches to the two screws along below the brass numbers (and S for Super Charge). One thing usually leads to another, but I'm OK with that. It's part of the fun. If I don't find one, I'll make a bodge from aluminium strip, until one surfaces.
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Not sure which part to clean next, the hand wheel or range scale cone. On the topic of the latter, when I made the purchase I noted the cone had screws on it. My other cone is one solid piece of aluminium. No screws. This new one looks to be same solid piece of aluminium, with another very thin layer of metal (? what type of metal) wrapped over and secured with those screws. Did they ammend the original type by adding an 'update' system over the old one? I'm not curious enough to undo the screws though. Might not get them back on again!
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Took me a little while to realise what this adjusting knob is. It will take much longer to get it back into usable condition. I see a little molasses giving me a hand with that job. At least I can mix it up in a glass jar and watch it work over whatever time it takes to do the task. I'm betting it's a few weeks, actually.
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This turned up today. I had forgotten I even bought it, but did so on a whim. I assume it's a pull through rope for barrel cleaning, right? Won't really need one. My barrel is blocked at breach end (except for a small steel tube & a spark plug ), and will have several rods welded across inner barrel tube at muzzle end, so there's NO WAY any projectile can be ejected. The rope and weight contraption can just go into the little canvas bag on back of lower shield. Saw a wire cleaning brush on ebay a few weeks ago, but missed it. It would have found a home in same bag. Next time!

[Private_collector]

Cone is cleaning up OK. A little more work to be done yet, to dull the finish down a bit.
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There are some light dents that are not able to be removed, and a few scratches, but it's quite presentable. Must get my other one out and compare the two.
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Ordered this bore cleaning brush set a few minutes ago.
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