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#1
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Thanks for the suggestions.
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Jordan Baker RHLI Museum, Otter LRC C15A-Wire3, 1944 Willys MB, 1942 10cwt Canadian trailer |
#2
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Well I tried the tape up all the holes and pour in a quart trick. I poured in about half a quart when I realized the duct tape I was using didn't hold and I leaked all over the floor. I stopped poring and began rotating. Inside is completely coated in POR15 along with some of the floor.
One door down, one to go (outside that is)
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Jordan Baker RHLI Museum, Otter LRC C15A-Wire3, 1944 Willys MB, 1942 10cwt Canadian trailer |
#3
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Hi Jordan
Thanks for the follow up and the picture, how much paint did you get on yourself in the process? Years ago I tried this trick using LPS-3 which is a cosmoline like rust inhibitor on Jeep Truck doors worked but when ever the truck was parked in the sun it smelled like cosmoline and on a real sunny day in the summer it dripped. The real problem was that tried to weld on door a couple of years later and the inside of the door caught fire. Rest of the truck rusted away but the doors never rusted. Cheers Phil
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Phil Waterman `41 C60L Pattern 12 `42 C60S Radio Pattern 13 `45 HUP http://canadianmilitarypattern.com/ New e-mail Philip@canadianmilitarypattern.com |
#4
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My approach to POR the inside of cab 13 doors was a bit different.
I needed to do dent repair to one door and reskin the other so both doors were separated into inner and outer panels. After getting the individual parts in satisfactory condition I PORed most of the door, leaving a narrow ribbon bare to allow for the folded edge and spot welding. After folding and welding I poured a smaller quantity of POR (actually leftover fuel tank sealer from Bob's truck) and tilted to cover the inner part of the seam. None came out except at the ends that I'd left open as telltales. Now I wonder whether that means I had such a tight seam that I didn't get penetration of the POR..... |
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