Our LRDG Chev

[Andrew H.]

Thanks Ilian,
Yes your first link shows the photo I looked at to find the correct stencil position after you mentioned it. Its not very clear so I attach a sketch showing where I think it is meant to go. I have certainly never seen it like that on any other LRDG truck. Do you have the book "Kiwi Scorpions"? It has many good photos, although few of them are clear enough to see any really fine detail.

[Ilian Filipov]

Hi Andrew,
Indeed, the IWM picture isn't much good, being too bright. But since the PhotoShop was invented such problems aren't problems anymore
The part of the photo of interest was enhanced a bit and I think it is more user-friendly yet:



Only this part enlarged:



How I see the place of the "INSPECTED" stencil, somewhat crude and approximate rendering but as close as I was able to do it:



Sorry for the pic, but there is no real Chevy 1533X2 in my garage, so I was forced to use my 1:76 model for this.

Regretfully I don't have the book "Kiwi Scorpions" but I know it is good one. I hope some day it will be within my reach and I also hope I'll find some new photos in it. BTW, I suspect the pic of the trio I've posted above is from this book.
Cheers!

[Andrew H.]

While we are talking about the historical accuracy of the LRDG stencils, I have recently found a pdf describing and explaining the change from T9 to T2 on the Te Aroha III truck (see attached). However I cannot remember where I found this information and therefore cannot quote the source.

At this stage we have more or less decided to adopt T9 as shown in post#175 above, as the basis for our truck.

[Ilian Filipov]

Hi Andrew,
Thanks for that, very interesting info. Must be cross-checked with other sources, though. For example I cannot agree the census number position "on the upper third of the right-hand side panels of the tailgate" was standard. Yes, on the upper third they were, but on R5 the W.D. number was in the middle, on S7 it was on the left, etc.
Cheers!

[Andrew H.]

Yesterday we attached the running boards. As we had only one front r/b bracket in very poor condition, we decided to make two new brackets from scratch (painted red in the photo). Another reason for making new front brackets is that the original "top hat" spacers welded to the under side of both running boards, were so badly rusted that they were un-usable. That created a 50mm gap between the running board and the original brackets, so we made our new front brackets 50mm higher. We then filled the gap on the rear r/b brackets with a wooden spacer. We have not yet bolted the LHS mudguard to the running board, but it looks like it will be a nice tight fit.

Purists will note from the photo that our mudguards do not have the correct curve at the front (near the bumper) for LRDG configuration. We may decide to fix this later, but right now it is not a high priority.

[Andrew H.]

Today we made and installed new sills for the running boards from 2mm sheet steel, made new floor boards from 20mm plywood (the original steel floor was toast) and bought four used radial tyres. The modern tyre specification equivalent to the original 10.5 x 16 inch tyres used by the LRDG is 265/75/R16 but strangely that outer diameter is too small compared to the tyres shown in the WWII photos. The second-hand tyres we bought are significantly larger at 315/75/R16 but much better-proportioned (see pic).They are worn but have enough tread for our purposes. We gave up looking for correct 10.5 x 16 sand-pattern tyres with highway speed capability, a long time ago. But we will have to remove that Yokohama brand name!

[Lang]

Andrew

Nice job.

I have a set of 11.00 - 16 NDT pretty worn but still legal and not too old if you want them free in Brisbane.

Regarding oil pressure. I took a 1945 Chev ute with Motto from Istanbul to Normandy and during the preparation was alarmed by low oil pressure. Changed gauges to eliminate error.

Once the vehicle got hot it would run at around 7psi if you let the revs drop say labouring up a hill it would go back to zero. Did the whole trip and it is still driving back here in Australia trotting along now at 5psi 10 years later with no problems.

I started a serious investigation on the 216 motor.

1. Factory recommended hot oil pressure for a new vehicle 13.5 lbs @ 2621 rpm ! I am sure this weird number is a result of the Owner's Manual Editors asking what oil pressure should the driver look for at 30mph and the engineers could not help themselves and converted it to engine rpm at that speed in the more technical specificatons.

2. GM did not want to put oil pressure gauges in the 216 military Chevrolets because people became alarmed but the Army insisted.

3. I have looked in numerous manuals for vehicles fitted with 216 motors and under oil pressure (if mentioned at all) the best I can find find is "indicating"

4. One source discussed the possibility that gauges reading double what they should were fitted to some vehicles to make people happy - great idea but true or not?

People get confused with 235 and Blue Flame motors that ran at normally expected oil pressures.

So, if your new engine sets off at 25 dead cold and drifts down to 12 or 14 hot you are on the money.

The oft repeated myth that 216 motors ruin the front big end because when going up hill the oil goes to the back and it does not get fed by the "splash" feed is just that - an old wive's tale. Many people believe "splash feed" means the cranks going into the oil in the sump each turn. If they did that the motor would shake itself to bits. The big ends are fed by small sprayer pipes directed on each journal, up, down or sideways all the journals receive the same oil. The mains get the benefit of direct gallery oiling from the huge pump pressure and, as Dave says above, a few drops manage to stagger to the top of the engine to oil the cam and rockers..

Lang