![]() |
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Just wondering has Anyone adapted rubber clutch and brake pedal boots from any other vehicles a bit more common than Humber , also gear lever boot as well as it is an odd shape hole in transmission cover not round or square like most vehicles have , although the main waterproof/sealing gearstick boot is round did the floor plate just have a flat rubber that sealed around the gearstick boot or did it actually rise up in convoluted form as well like modern vehicles do as a secondary sealing setup. maybe someone has custom made leather/vinyl stitched type boots?.
john |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
It never ceases to amaze me how after 60 yrs or so grease mixed with a bit of dirt etc turns in to a form of sticky-hard-concrete that is only removable by scraping and scrubbing for hrs,i spent most of a hot 37 degree celsius saturday just cleaning the engine which wasnt disgusting but where acummulated heavy deposits had been left for decades refused to shift easily.
Same with g/box oil/grease had melted in to a sort of smooth/glazed layer on outside of casing. john |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Clutch/brake boot is a rare item, can't help you there.
The gear lever has a boot (LV9/BOE/FV17601) with a large (lower) and small (upper) hose clamps. There is also a canvas dust cover that goes around both levers, see pic. Roy Elvis did have some gear lever boots : http://www.champ-sparesukltd.com/ Re. your pics. Had a quick look at the rifle brkt upper, divers side. It is longer than the pass. side, and runs towards the rear, with the rifle leaning back at an angle to help in egress/exit. The pass. side is shorter due to the mounting of the spare wheel. The water jacket cover's are prone to corrosion, well spotted. There are three of them and are probably all worth replacing. I have ,made them out of Stainless and Brass. The rectangular cover block on the back of the head, ditto. The block with all the pipes on the back of the block ditto. These are breather pipes for dissy etc. and no doubt full of crud. The blocks are available NOS. Wait till it hits 45, all the grease will run out, hey presto, job done! Rich.
__________________
C60S Austin Champ x 2 Humber 1 Ton & Trailer |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Thanks Rich never thought of waiting till it hits 100f good idea.
will be checking other water jacket covers now you have shown me your ones for sure. that canvas boot cover was what i couldnt picture in my mind thought it may have been something like the pic you have put up ,now its cleared the path i need to take to manufacture said item. the pedal boots look familiar ,i have seen vintage cars with the thru the floor pedals so will just have to find some in a restorers rubber list that may have the same base size. the rifle pic, i have tried standing with magazine forward and facing backwards hadnt quite worked out which way it would have stood i thought most prob the other way to one pictured would be it. cheers John |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
The corrosion problems around the water jacket are caused by operating without corrosion inhibiter / anti-freeze. If it had a good strong solution in it all its life those covers would be perfect.
From a UK perspective, your truck is in amazing condition. Ours rotted to nothing years ago, cabs first. Great to drive when they are right. David |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Hi David,colder clime folk probably treat their engines with more due respect re anti freeze/inhibitor,Aussies tend to forget how extreme temps can be elsewhere in the world and more care is needed,we treat aluminium parts commonly now with corrosion inhibitor as more components are alloy than previously where only a thermostat housing or water pump was aluminium and the rest was cast iron,we just simply replaced these after after a couple of years as they used to be fairly cheap.
modern all alloy engines and radiators are not my favourites along with modern electronic fuel and ignition systems,and dont get me started on the ticking time bomb cam belts,they may put out more HP and give good economy etc,etc but drag me out of the bush a mid 20th century cast iron head/block and points/carby engine that still turns and i pretty much guarantee i can get it running(maybe not well) but running all the same,B60 RR point in question. i always wanted a Humber but thought i had missed the boat especially seeing so few came here,but when i saw the condition of this one and the fact the guy wanted to sell (stumbled on all this by accident)i leapt at the chance. Seeing what you UK boys tackle,and even some Aussie stuff,i have the utmost respect for your patience and skills and determination. cheers John |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Hi John,
I regret that there are very few preserved Humber 1ton in the UK as they rotted away faster than people got interested in them. At the risk of upsetting people in the UK I must say that you don't have to go far for inspiration. The Humber that Dave Mills has restored is a superb job and must be one of the best in the world and the Tilly project being done now by Jack Neville and Chris Collins is a masterclass in bringing a soft skin vehicle back from the dead. The are both written up in the 'Restorations' section of this forum. David |
![]() |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|
![]() |
||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
Wanted: Humber FV1601 Clutch Plate | Dave Mills | For Sale Or Wanted | 3 | 27-11-16 11:29 |
FV1611 humber "Pig" and FV 1601 Humber 1 ton | alain taou | The Armour Forum | 0 | 12-09-08 10:08 |
Humber LRC | mudeng | The Armour Forum | 1 | 22-07-08 20:08 |
Humber FV1601 UK | Richard Coutts-Smith | For Sale Or Wanted | 5 | 07-07-08 13:16 |
Aussie Virus to an Aussie Magnet | Vets Dottir | The Sergeants' Mess | 11 | 02-03-07 10:58 |