![]() |
|
#1
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
The chainsaw was effective , if anyone passing by noticed what I was doing
![]() Now what to do next . I need to cut the last inch or so of rubber to gain access to the wire . The angle grinder .
__________________
1940 cab 11 C8 1940 Morris-Commercial PU 1941 Morris-Commercial CS8 1940 Chev. 15cwt GS Van ( Aust.) 1942-45 Jeep salad |
#2
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
This is hard work and not the sort of thing to be undertaken by the faint hearted disciples out there. I am in need of a weeks rest before I tackle the next one.
__________________
1940 cab 11 C8 1940 Morris-Commercial PU 1941 Morris-Commercial CS8 1940 Chev. 15cwt GS Van ( Aust.) 1942-45 Jeep salad |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Hi Mike,
Nice work. I must admit I felt a bit squeamish reading about the use of a chain saw to remove tyres here on the forum but after seeing the wall thickness of your RF tyres compared to conventional 9.00 x 16" I can see the advantage over a reciprocating saw. See attached photo for comparison. I could only envision the disaster if chain accidentally meets steel rim, or if it kicks back, hence my concern. I can only vouch for my standard military tyres but my Ryobi reciprocating saw goes through the tyre carcass like a hot knife through butter. I Used a medium pitch wood cutting blade in it. It still does the job on standard tyres and a lot safer and easier to control than an angle grinder or chain saw in my humble opinion. Just drill the four 3/8" or bigger starting holes as I mentioned in a post last year on the subject. I used a hand chisel to cut the bead wires but to do it again I would use an air chisel. It would sure speed up the process, save the knuckles, and they are cheap to buy now. As always, I bought an air chisel after I had removed 10 tyres. Some people learn slowly! Cheers,
__________________
F15-A 1942 Battery Staff Jacques Reed |
#4
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
__________________
SteveJ 1943 Dodge WC52 ![]() ![]() ![]() 1986 Armstrong MT 500 CDN Motorcycle ![]() Last edited by SteveJ; 24-02-17 at 20:53. Reason: trouble posting pictures |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
For shear brute force and ignorance a 50 ton press is real handy for pressing original run flats off rims.
|
#6
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
The Hammond Barn had looked at the 20 ton press but it isn't wide enough to fit the wheel/tire assembly far enough in to achieve much. It might be possible to create wider fame members. Do you have a feeling whether the 50 ton the press was working hard or way below capacity in removing the tire? Is that a 20" rim being used as the load spreader or did you have to go to a larger size to clear the (assumed) CMP 16" rim.
|
#7
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Grant
I had a rim from an M135 ( 20 inch tire size) and it has a one inch greater inside diameter than the outside diameter of the 16 inch CMP rim. The greatest pressure I saw was 15 tons and the tires were dated 1941, 1942 run flats. I assumed they had never been replaced. When I was looking for a shop press the bang for buck seems to improve quickly with increased tons, as does the working width. I have made a set of dies and can form 32 inch wide 16 gauge steel. Maybe not as pretty a job for some instances but for an old CMP it is good enough. Gord |
![]() |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|