11 Set stuff

[Mike K]

The truck 1 Ton tablet was issued for the Australian AWA set only . Before the CMP based wireless trucks became available , the AIF and AMF wireless vehicles were normally based on the 1 Ton GS Van - usually Fords 122" w.b. . There was also a AWA tablet for the MG carrier .

That particular AWA tablet is the one that I had at one time

[cletrac (RIP)]

I checked out my Brit 11 set manual to see what the Ammeter HF 1 amp No 3 that's carried in the spare parts case was used for. The aerial ammeter in the set is used with low power and my new one is used with high power. I guess you pull one out and push the new one back in. Never tried it though. The Aussie set is the same.
I cleaned up the Brit manual I got off the net in pdf format and now I'm doing the same with the Aussie manual. I get rid of all the smudges etc, then adjust the contrast and set the image size. I rotate the pages that need it too. It ends up with a pretty good copy when I'm done.
If anybody wants copies, email me and I'll send them. They're over 50 megabites.

[Mike K]

Many of the 350ma meters are blown up and useless because the wireless operator forgot to change over to the 1 amp meter before hitting the transmit key after switching to HP

[Chris Suslowicz]

Originally Posted by Mike Kelly

Many of the 350ma meters are blown up and useless because the wireless operator forgot to change over to the 1 amp meter before hitting the transmit key after switching to HP

Still more thermocouple meters are blown up because idiots 'test' them with a dry cell - even an AAA cell will deliver sufficient current to blow the nichrome resistance wire in an RF Ammeter. (After that it's completely useless since there's no damping on the movement - it relies on the circuit of meter coil through thermocouple to provide the damping, so you can't just add a shunt or series multiplier and repurpose it as a 'normal' DC amp or volt meter.



Chris.

[cletrac (RIP)]

I received my two spare parts cases today. They both have the embossed lettering but the back side of the lid is smooth. How did that work?
I tried a wire wheel to remove the old paint and discovered the secret. The white embossed lettering is just built up paint.I can sand off the C and change it to a B. Now for a repaint job.
I have most of the case's contents on hand too.

[Ron Pier]

Ah that's interesting! Naturally it was first come first served and I got the last one, which unfortunately has a broken clip, hanging on by a thread! I didn't notice that in his description? The clip does work and I'll have to see about getting the split brazed up. Mine also has the big 19 and the Z number on it. I will need to read back through previous posts but I guess the Z number is wrong for an 11 Set? Ron

[Chris Suslowicz]

Originally Posted by Ron Pier

Ah that's interesting! Naturally it was first come first served and I got the last one, which unfortunately has a broken clip, hanging on by a thread! I didn't notice that in his description? The clip does work and I'll have to see about getting the split brazed up. Mine also has the big 19 and the Z number on it. I will need to read back through previous posts but I guess the Z number is wrong for an 11 Set? Ron

Case, Spare Parts, No.5B is ZA.0943 according to WftW Vol 2.

The clip is spring brass and if you braze it you will soften it so it no longer works. I think I have some gutted spare valve cases with the same clips and will have a look for you.

Chris.