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  #1  
Old 03-07-17, 01:22
Tim Lovelock Tim Lovelock is offline
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Hi Colin,
Following your threads with much pleasure.
Will say I have always been a great fan of these little tanks.
Cannot add any more than my admiration for your efforts.
Kind regards Tim
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  #2  
Old 03-07-17, 02:26
David Dunlop David Dunlop is offline
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I wouldn't think a rubber gasket would have to be very thick for those transmission cover assemblies, Colin. Do any of the surviving pieces of hardware give any clues as to thickness? Two or three millimetres would probably work just fine, if nothing useful shows up in any of the reference literature.

Looks like a seal around the perimeter bolt holes on the inner piece you have replicated, then perhaps another seal on whatever exterior cover plate was fitted, to snug up against the framed rim which faces to the outside of the hull. Not sure what will hold any cover in place at this point, however.

David

Last edited by David Dunlop; 03-07-17 at 02:32.
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  #3  
Old 03-07-17, 08:55
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colin jones colin jones is offline
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Mike, there is one of those very trailers in my back paddock which belongs to someone else but I'm sure I could borrow it anytime. Especially if I restore it for him
Tim, I'm glad you are finding this as entertaining as I am in the restoration.
David, There was a small piece of the gasket left which told me exactly what they used. It appears to be 1/8 thick x 1-3/4" wide and strengthened with canvas in the rubber. Purely as a gasket and the pieces that I made would have I presume a hollow core rubber glued around the inside to seal off for water. I will do both of those things after painting.
I have made the other door and hinge which is a very solid construction. I had to cut a piece of steel out of some RHS I had as it was the correct thickness but then had to run it though my rollers as it had a curve due its tensility.
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  #4  
Old 03-07-17, 08:59
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colin jones colin jones is offline
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I was fortunate to be able to fit the door in my hole punch machine and use the hydraulics to do the rivets cold. I just need to be careful not to put too much pressure or I would destroy it but they pressed very well and I just ground the excess off so they were flush on the underside of the door. I also stamped the number on the hinge as well.
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Last edited by colin jones; 03-07-17 at 09:05.
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  #5  
Old 03-07-17, 09:04
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colin jones colin jones is offline
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The door that has the repair weld on it was there when I got it but I will do some cosmetic work it to make it look nice. It could have been done during its service of by the farmer, but anyway they now both have doors.
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  #6  
Old 04-07-17, 02:57
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colin jones colin jones is offline
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I thought I would share a little tip I have for doing countersink holes. I assume most would drill the shank size hole and then use a bigger drill bit for the countersink. Normal drill bits never do a round hole and always end up with facets and the CS bolts never sit snug. I found that sharpening a reamer which has 4 flutes gave me a perfect round taper and even though I only had Morse Taper reamers, they still fit in my hand drill, well a No2MT anyway
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  #7  
Old 04-07-17, 08:17
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colin jones colin jones is offline
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I had to make two sets of plates with pressings in them. Lucky for me I have quite a number of drawings that give me a huge amount of information. Again, my press brake is invaluable.
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