Pat 12 gets a nose job

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Bob and everybody else who responded to the Need Picture of Left Front Engine Shield

Well I finally got around to fabricating the Left Splash Shield.

Here it is installed, note I did some field modification reducing the number of bolts that have to be removed to access the generator. It now has only three bolts to remove or install.
2017 C60L Splash Shield_0837.jpg

See next post for dimensions.

Next two photos show the unit being prep for spot welding.
2017 C60L Splash Shield_0797(1).jpg

2017 C60L Splash Shield_0795(1).jpg

Have not driven the truck much since installing but it noticeably reduces the amount of fan air coming out under the fender. But it also appears to increase the air pressure in the engine box so that any seem or joint on the dog house aimed at the driver now produces a stream of hot air. Spent the morning sealing and closing those gaps up.

My thanks for all the photos provided, once it was clear what the part looked like it was not difficult to cut and fit cardboard template. Once that was done then the steel was easy.

Cheers Phil

[Phil Waterman]

Hi

Hope these panel templates, with more readable dimension for the panels to fabricate the splash shield, are more helpful

W Pat 12 Splash Shield Side.jpg

Note the 1" holes are meant to over lay the side panel mounting bolts, with only 2 of them being used to attach the panel. The tap toward the front is bolted to the radiator frame using a carriage bolt with a thin nut to capture the bolt to the radiator frame which is them over laid by the tap with large washer and nut.

W Pat 12 Splash Shield bottom.jpg

On the bottom panel the two 1" holes over lay the frame rail rivets. This edge is covered with some anti squeaking material to allow for cab movement.

W Pat 12 Splash Shield Front.jpeg

Front of the shield just completes the enclosure.

As mentioned having both Splash Shields in place forces the air from the fan to flow through the engine dog house without all the air from the fan being exhausted into the wheel wells. Did some testing over the weekend in 80F air temp on long 10%+ grades down in second gear to see if it improves engine cooling or not. No clear difference.

Cheers Phil

[Bob Carriere]

Hi Phil

Love the way you over drilled the bolt holes to prevent having to tear down the whole cab assembly to access the panel.

I remember the headache I had trying to remember the sequence that needs to be followed in the cab re-assembly.

If you need any additional info let me know. I have not seen, at least in Eastern salted Canada, a cab11 or 12 that did not have these panels rusted to bits........ a bad design to start with but then they were not suppose to last 75+ years.

Been working reskinning the back lower portion of my roof....not progressing very fast. I had to redo the curved angle iron as I did not like how it did not follow the exact profile of the roof. The first was done with multi cuts bent and welded...... but everytime I weld the cuts the heat buildup changes the profile........ so I cut out the flat curved portion.....carefully bent the angle to shape than plasma cut and fitted a separate piece of suitable flat stock.

Now facing a catch 22....... once the cab is installed I can no longer drive it into the sea container. unless I intend to stay in the cab....... there is not sufficient clearance for me to exit. Without the roof I climb over the back and walked out. So now I must cut a suitable hole in the side of the container that will allow me to swing out the suicide door wide enough for me to exit.

Plans are to cut the almost square hole....... than build a 2x2 thin wall tubing frame..... fabricate a door also of 2x2 and use the cut out container skin to finish the door. so I need to concentrate my efforts on the container while slowly progressing on the roof........... the butt weld on the roof skin will be a very time consuming operation of tack and hammer and grind and tack hammer and grind until done.

Will try to remember to take photos for posting.

Cheers

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Bob

I've seen pictures of side doors being cut into the side of the shipping containers to solve that problem. They just boxed the door opening with box tubing and hinged it out. Will look for photos. Guess the only problem is if you are renting the box the company get a little testy.

Cheers Phil

[Bob Carriere]

So I can cut holes ....... I am planning the door to be used only for egress/access from the truck so the bottom will be even with the running board and even with the top but wide enough to allow the cab door to completely swing open to the outside. This will necessitate some wooden staircase as the container is already raised from the ground.

Will design or copy a good strong latch system for locking solidly.

Photos will follow.

Cheers

[Alex van de Wetering]

Excellent work as usual, Phil!
The left side panel on my C8 is also missing, so I will also have to fabricate one just like you in due time....although I am sure the C8 panel will be somewhat different from C15/30/60 as usual.
I repaired the right side panel a few months ago....it was rusty, but pretty easily repairable. I think I am just missing small panel that curves around the steering tube (.I think it's just a flat piece that attached with two or 3 bolts?)

Bob...what about fitting a towing eye on the far end of the container (inside) and hand-winching the truck into the container? ....or did I see this in a previous Hammond barn thread.....sorry....i can't remember

Alex

[Jordan Baker]

Bob. I hear yoga can help

[Bob Carriere]

Hi Jordan

Been following your progress with great interest as I will need to rebuild or fabricate my 2B1 box.

Alex...... you are referring to the winching device Ron created to pull the HUP backwards into his container.

In my case I drive into the container them crawl over the cargo box to get out..... great yoga exercise BUT once my top gets finished and install I will not be able to get out of the cab.

Plans are to cut a wide side door ......inline with the drives door..... so it will be quicker and easier to use the truck.
Will frame with 2 inch square tubing..... make a door also of 2 in. Square tubing and reuse the container skin to cover the door frame. Lots of plasma cutting and Mig welding.

I will be more inclined to take my truck out for an evening spin if I can get into the cab easier and just drive out.

As you know Alex the cab 11 has rigid mirror arm that will not fit in the container BUT on the cab 12 they did have a retro fit that bolts on and utilizes the flex/adjustable mirror arm....... I plan on salvaging a set of the bracket for