2017 at the Hammond Barn

[Bob Carriere]

Can't fit in if you are broadminded.

Truck sits close to the rear doors which will give room to build some storage shelves at the front.

It is obvious that I will be using folding rearview mirror arms in the future.

Cheers

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Bob

Great Job, are you taking orders for Custom Modular CMP Homes?

How much room is there on either side of the truck? Are you going to put guide planks on the floor to auto center the truck?

Reason I asked about backing it in, met a guy out side of Portland Maine many years ago who back his F60S into the box and then would leave the passenger side windshield wide open so the could climb in and out.

Cheers Phil

[Bob Carriere]

Space is tight Phil. About a hands width....4 fingers no thumb....

Was planning to use a 6x6 beam (actually 5 3/8x 5 3/8) on the left side but with the 10:50 tires they are two wide..... considered building up some 2x6 but the tire cleats have a tendency of climbing on the boards......so I eye ball the right front fender aiming for 3 inches and then I am sure the left side is OK.

Have to remove the rear view mirrors every time.....so will salvage the special brackets from a cab 12 that allows the use of a folding mirror arm and save the original fixed arm for shows.

Was getting a little tired of climbing over the back of the cab, the tool box and into the cargo box...... now I can just drive in open the side door and walk out. The side door will also give me access to the battery for removal during the Winter .
.
Now I can go back to working on the steel roof.

Cheers

Cheers

[motto (RIP)]

I have been using shipping containers as storage units for many years and from experience have been made well aware of their shortcomings.
First up is the flat top inevitably has undulations which causes water to pool in the low areas and despite the corrosion resistance of the steel and protective coatings nature wins in the end.
Another problem is condensation inside the container. This depends on atmospherics and can be quite remarkable under certain conditions. This is exacerbated by placing damp or wet objects in the container then closing it up for a period of time.
My recommendation to anybody using a seatainer for storage is to install a roof over it. Even sheets of corrugated iron spaced up with packing boards to give it some air gap and fall will improve the interior environment. It must be secured of course.
A ventilator is also a good idea. Some people instal a whirligig.

David

[Bruce Parker (RIP)]

Buy two sea cans, cut off one left and one right side then weld them together? Would make an extra wide metal garage with room to spare.

[rob love]

The problem when you cut the whole wall out is the roof then sags. The wall is part of the structure.

A better idea is to take those same two sea cans, space them apart, and run suitable roof trusses. It will keep the cans dry, and give you a storage space in the middle. That said, putting a roof on will be expensive and time consuming, which kind of defeats the reason for using sea cans in the first place.

We used lots of sea cans for projects in Bosnia and in Afghanistan. We had them in 2 story and 3 story configurations, with various cut-outs and conjoining methods. Sometimes they would get secondary roofs, other-times they wouldn't.

When Canada left KAF, there were actually hundreds of condemned cans in various states that we could not bring back. No idea what happened to them, but our sea can manager did get some sly offers for some of them from other contractors (offers which were not accepted of course).

[Yeo.NT]

As Rob has pointed out we used/lived in sea cans in Afghanistan, the one I lived in was insulated, lined with plywood as well with a heater and A/C unit.

[RHClarke]

Originally Posted by rob love

A better idea is to take those same two sea cans, space them apart, and run suitable roof trusses. It will keep the cans dry, and give you a storage space in the middle. That said, putting a roof on will be expensive and time consuming, which kind of defeats the reason for using sea cans in the first place.

I couldn't agree more with the first and second sentences. As for the third sentence, it cost me around $300 to put the roof on my two sea cans as shown in the pic below. The majority of the cost was for the tin and screws required. The wood came from a neighbour's deck, which I repurposed into sturdy trusses.

If I were to do this again, I would increase the span between the cans. Right now, the Pilot Model HUP (in pieces) resides in this quite dry and spacious home. The front and back are now covered with mod tents, as seen in the second shot - the front rolls up on a pulley system. Ultimately, I cannot but sing the praises of sea cans and sea can shelters.