F60L resto NSW Australia

[Tony Smith]

It's not an uncommon problem, and "back in the day" there were 2 styles of tools designed to attack the problem. Funnily enough, both were recently for sale on Ebay AU (I wasn't the buyer or seller, although I might have placed a bid). Keep an eye out on Ebay US, they do appear there quite frequently.

First, the bridge type. Remove the horseshoe clip holding the valve guide. Lift the valve enough to slip the centre threaded casting over the opened valve. The outer tube is placed over it and spans the valve seat area. Wind the nut, and keep winding, nothing will resist and the whole valve, guide and spring assembly will be drawn out of the block. Flatattack Racing did reproduce this tool for some time, and with his trademark excellent machining, but they have not been available for some years.

And secondly, the punch type. Again with the valve open, slip this under the valve and around the valve stem, and find the biggest hammer you've got and take one last look at your knuckles before you drive the guide into the lifter valley.

[David Nicholson]

Just picked these up!!!! 6 x 12-20 wheels and tyres! I've just got to buy tubes! Do these rims require a rim/tube protector? I was thinking of making a rubber band to protect the tube from chafing!

If anyone is wondering, I want 2 spares!

Truck is going to be military original, but with a Adventure truck tray/roll bars! That's the plan so far!

[David Nicholson]

I,m still considering using bolt cutters on these bottom valve stems. The guides can be drifted out if I do!

[Phil Waterman]

Hi David

Yes you will probably want to use tube flaps to protect the tube. Depending on how the tires were stored you may also have to open them up so that the mounting lip will slide on the rims. Will look for the thread where this was discussed. It's in the Hammond Barn Series.

The problem is if the tires have been stacked they may have closed down at the opening. One of the things I have done is to put the tubes in with the tire laying on the floor and just inflate until the tire opens up to about the width of the rim and let them sit for a day or two. Seems to save on wrestling match.

I've been running 11:00x20s non-directionals on my C60S for 27 years with out problems. The 12:00x20s should give you a little more rubber over drive.

Cheers Phil

[Mike Cecil]

OR just break the head off the valve (quick sideways tap with a hammer on the open valve forced up with a jemmy bar underneath the valve stem base) and use a standard punch to drive the lot into the valley. Then replace the broken valves and two piece valve guides with straight valves, single piece guides and adjustable lifters.

Mike

[Mike K]

Originally Posted by Mike Cecil

OR just break the head off the valve (quick sideways tap with a hammer on the open valve forced up with a jemmy bar underneath the valve stem base) and use a standard punch to drive the lot into the valley.

Mike

Don't let the garage WO1 see you doing that . You would have been on a charge for damaging His Majesty's precious equipment

This is how its done https://www.awm.gov.au/collection/C188811

[David Nicholson]

Great Video Mike!

Ok, just got the block back from its acid bath! After an hour or so with the wire brush, it's looking so much better! The great news is that it looks like a good block! No cracks found on first visual inspection after brushing. Will clean some more and check the problem areas.

Next step will be to somehow pressure test the water jacket just in case there are any porous areas.

Once I'm convinced that it will hold coolant it will go back to the machine shop for a re-bore. It's a standard block at the moment 3.1875 bore. There is some pitting on a couple of cylinders, so will order pistons once the final bore is established.

Will order parallel valves and single piece guides etc. ATM I will keep the original cam, although not ideal, it's an expensive item to replace.