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#1
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Hi all,
I have now sorted the repro rear engine mounts. My engine crane didn’t have the height to get the engine block over the side of the hull, so I used a forklift to lower the block into the engine bay. After that I was able to use the engine crane to jiggle the block into place. I raised the engine into the front mounts, clamped the rear mounts down on the cross member, and once I was happy with the placement, drilled the mounting holes in the new cross member. The repro mounts were about the correct length but the bolt spacing on the back where the mounts attach to the hull was well off. I chopped off the ends of the mounts and welded on the new bolt mounting plates I made. The hole spacing on the sheet metal plate that goes under the engine mounts was also out, so I have drilled new holes through that. Not sure why the repro mounts weren’t right but I guess there were differences in the hulls over time which could account for that. I finished off the engine cover mounting plate by cutting and shaping it at the rear end to clear the radiator, and adding a few footman loops. The hull and turret are booked in for the blasting and painting on 13th and 14th November so I am looking forward to that. In the meantime, I’ve started work on a few other things to keep me amused. I am in the process of removing the recoil system from the mantlet. There are a couple of screws holding this in place so I will soak them with penetrant for a while before I try cracking them. The generator will need a little bit of work…. It does rotate, so that is something. Hopefully the internals are in reasonable shape. I’ve finalised the jerry can bracket on the driver’s seat and also completed all the tool lockers and lids. I have started removing the end covers off the fuel tank. The wee screws and nuts are pretty stuck so each one is a battle, and there are a heap of them! I am still a bit undecided on what to do with the fuel tank. I have seen NOS bladders come up for sale but they are expensive (about 800 EURO from what I've seen). The vehicle will not get a lot of use and I am reluctant to spend that sort of money if I can’t maintain the bladder, so at this stage I am inclined to make (or find) a fuel tank that will go inside the original enclosure. What are other’s opinions on this?
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Cheers, Darryl Lennane 1943 Willys MB 1941 Willys MBT Trailer 1941 Australian LP2A Machine Gun Carrier 1943 White M3A1AOP Scout Car 1944 Ford M8 Armoured Car 1945 Ford M20 Armoured Car |
#2
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The rest of the photos.
__________________
Cheers, Darryl Lennane 1943 Willys MB 1941 Willys MBT Trailer 1941 Australian LP2A Machine Gun Carrier 1943 White M3A1AOP Scout Car 1944 Ford M8 Armoured Car 1945 Ford M20 Armoured Car |
#3
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Nice progress, Darryl.
With regards to the fuel bladders, I would be suspicious of any NOS stock manufactured prior to the existence of modern ethanol loaded fuels. They just might not be able to handle the ethanol without causing serious problems for you. I personally like to go as original as possible, but sometimes ‘progress’ simply gets in the way. Might be worth a chat with a nearby military base to see what they are currently using for fuel bladders. Then see if they are made somewhere ‘locally’. The manufacturer just might be able to help you source the right materials, or make a set for you if you have patterns or originals they can work from. David |
#4
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David, go tank in tank and save yourself a heap of grief that may, or may not, work as original with a bladder. Unless Clark Kent is looking at the vehicle and its fuel tank nobody will ever know (unless you tell them or they read it on MLU) that the tank is modded. Great work and I enjoy following the progress of a restoration(s) done right. I say restorations as the overall campaign of a detailed and large restoration such as yours is really umpteen small battles won to get it accomplished.
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#5
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Darryl, If you wanted to go down the track of a fuel cell, talk to the guys who do race cars. price and size might shift you back to a tank in tank set up.
Genny should be Std. QMC part, with the 12 volt Dodges and Fords using these (Autolite) 60 amp generators. with varying end plates. (same as Scoutcar???) Take both generator and voltage regulator to the auto electrician, together.
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Bluebell Carrier Armoured O.P. No1 Mk3 W. T84991 Carrier Bren No2.Mk.I. NewZealand Railways. NZR.6. Dodge WC55. 37mm Gun Motor Carriage M6 Jeep Mb #135668 So many questions.... |
#6
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Hi David, James and Lynn,
Thanks for the replies. I have to say that after doing some more research, I have been leaning toward a stainless steel tank that will fit into the tank enclosure. That would ensure the correct 'look' while making it a practical solution. From what I've seen, others have had success doing it this way. In saying that, I did have someone on another forum describe how he used the bladder enclosure itself as the tank. He removed the bladder, reapired the metalwork, sealed the ends, had a specialist coat the inside and refitted some of the ports from the bladder onto the metalwork of the enclosure. A bit of work, but another good solution with the correct look. Lynn - the generator is a beast, and bigger and heavier than the scout car one. I have nearly got it apart and will look at the innards and see what I can do with it. I have a new mount and some parts for it. I'll take the generator and regulator to the Auto guys once I've gone as far as I can go with it.
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Cheers, Darryl Lennane 1943 Willys MB 1941 Willys MBT Trailer 1941 Australian LP2A Machine Gun Carrier 1943 White M3A1AOP Scout Car 1944 Ford M8 Armoured Car 1945 Ford M20 Armoured Car |
#7
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Hey Big D
Just a question ? Have you ever done any out reach within the M8 owners community and asked about what others have done regarding the tank/fuel/bladder issue ? I am sure that others have gone down the road you are on and come up with all kinds of creative solutions. G503 would be a good jumping off point to get connected (if you are not already). |
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