LP2a SAR restoration

[Phillip]

Thanks Dale,

I've been on the road and today I had my hands on two NOS Wheels. Unfortunately the owner (a MV collector) has left them outside for some time and they have rusted to the point where the the rubber is perished away from the rim

The gear selector rebuild has been completed, ready for when the final gearbox bearing arrives so I can rebuild that

[Dale Jordan]

Hi Phillip it's a good idea to cut off those two lung mounts flush with the side of top cover plate , as they can get in the road with gear change movement . Dale

[Phillip]

After 'boiling' the engine in molasses for two weeks, its now clean of scale and rust - just incredible what came out of it.

Pulled the engine studs out, after reading about this process, I took it easy but found that only two of the studs made a cracking sound, the rest were a fine line between "are they shearing or coming out".

Finally got the hang it after braking four studs (oops). Best process was heat the stud, cool, test, reheat and retest. Some really stubborn ones came out after about six sessions. I used this bearing type extractor as it grips very low and it worked awesomely.

Engine is now completely stripped and goes into the workshop tomorrow.

[Lynn Eades]

Hi Phillip. Here's what I had suggested to me. Don't run a tap through those head stud threads in the block. Find the best looking old stud (thread wise) Then put a couple of hacksaw cuts in the end or grind a notch in it, so that it forms a sharp scraping edge as it is wound in. then judiciously use it as a thread cleaner in all 24 holes. the idea here is that you will not take any meat out of the block and your new "rolled" threaded studs will fit fairly neatly. Then when you "set" your new studs in with a good sealer, you should have little trouble with leaks.

[Andrew Rowe]

Just out of interest we were looking at the "correct" way around that the top of the gearbox should go. It seems that the lugs can be on the left hand side, so there is no need to cut them off, and they should not interfere with the angle bracket for the spring plunger for reverse as well. When assembled you can bench test through all gears , just to make sure the arm over the top of the gearbox does not hit your filler plug , there should be 1/2" clearance. I have also seen a gearbox with the filler plug on the other side as well, so no issues there with interference. Cheers Andrew.

[Mike Cecil]

Hi Phillip,

Assume you will be getting your block crack-tested?

Not unusual to find a crack between the water jacket and the valve seats, which will cause you problems down-track.

Mike

[Lynn Eades]

Andrew, I am sure you will have the full collection of gearbox tops. Some with no lugs, some with short lugs and some with long lugs.
My carrier has a gate, but no lockout for reverse on the gate. So, I chose to use the LP2/2a guide bracket with the sprung loaded detent that all you LP2/2a guys are familiar with. The result was that I had to change out he gearbox top because those lugs were too long for the Australian bracket (which bolts down from the top with lid fastening bolts) The two lug foul the guide plate.
The LP2 gearbox needs the top with the short lugs while the riveted carrier uses the long lugs to mount its guide plate (where the bolts go in from the side)
I hope that helps.