LP2a SAR restoration

[Lynn Eades]

Andrew, I am sure you will have the full collection of gearbox tops. Some with no lugs, some with short lugs and some with long lugs.
My carrier has a gate, but no lockout for reverse on the gate. So, I chose to use the LP2/2a guide bracket with the sprung loaded detent that all you LP2/2a guys are familiar with. The result was that I had to change out he gearbox top because those lugs were too long for the Australian bracket (which bolts down from the top with lid fastening bolts) The two lug foul the guide plate.
The LP2 gearbox needs the top with the short lugs while the riveted carrier uses the long lugs to mount its guide plate (where the bolts go in from the side)
I hope that helps.

[Phillip]

Thanks to all for the tips on the gearbox top. This is the original as fitted to this carrier but I can see the potential for those long lugs to foul the gear mechanism. .

The top only goes on one way around so me thinks those lugs will have to come off.

I've had a few enquiries around 'boiling' the engine block. Attached is my apparatus, essentially 3/4 of a 44 gal drum up on blocks with a fire underneath.

I poured 8L of molasses into the mix of water and every few days lit a fire underneath to make the solution 'warm'. It's surprising how little of a fire it takes to heat this quantity of water.

Wash the parts with a soapy, high pressure hot water/ steam cleaner to stop them flash rusting. Viola.

[Lynn Eades]

Phillip your lugs look to protrude about 25mm from the side. your bracket should fit. It is the 40mm ones that are too long.

[Phillip]

Lynn,

You are absolutely spot on. Picked up the roller cage bearing and assembled the gearbox last night.

Fitted the detent bracket and found all the gears and yes - reverse just misses the 25mm lugs.

Just waiting on the pinion seal to finish it off completely.

[Phillip]

I need to turn up the Bakelite grease seals/ bushes in the suspension so that I can start re-assembling, however I decided to tackle a job I was not looking forward to. Wiring.

I tracked and labeled all the wires and made all the connectors. Having all the wires the same colour makes life interesting and I've still got to make up the coloured tin tags to identify each wire.

This whole process was made a lot easier by assembling the conduit in sections and feeding the wires through a little at a time.

Getting the wires through the little t piece underneath and then up into the junction box is going to be 'fun' 10 wires in such a small diameter conduit

[Lynn Eades]

Nice work Phillip! Now about the seals. Where do you get bakelite from?
The Aussie seals do go hard, but the material is a rubber type, which twists in itself when the arms move. I had a few injection moulded, but the guy would only do one set for me. (a trade for a favour) Old stock British/ Canadian ones remain pliable.

[Andrew Rowe]

I just use 10mm nitrite rubber. The local gasket guy does it with his CAD program using a thermal knife cutter, but you can also water jet the rubber out for a reasonable job as well. I believe it is only there for a water proof seal for the grease.