Heads Up: Denim Tank Suit news

[Robert Bergeron]

The giant from the Netherlands is a wise man . Waiting for the signal before crossing the start line . That way the God of war ( Jim ) will have time to soften up any imperfections in the suits. A small Canadian ( 6’ 1’’ or 192 cm ) enthousiast . ...

[Jim Burrill]

Don't un-order your suits... But I should have the prototype in Tuesday.

I would feel better having the chance to scrutinize it before people start spending money on my say-so. Well, I would at least do my best to make sure it was made right.

I plan to get three myself.

I really hope Irfan has his shit together about the sizes. I sent him commercial cotton boiler suits/coveralls to try to set a size that you would see if you ordered from the big Aramark clothing company.


There are a couple of people that are trying to sort out replacement suits due to some mix ups. Three were lost in Holland... shipping weight matched three suits, but only one unpacked on arrival. And some that were not a proper fit. So then it got into replacement susits, and who to return the reject to. (ME!)

But it made sense to try to sell those person-to-person and save on postage.

Honestly, I still am not sure everyone is whole yet. Eric's suit is the last one to be mailed. And it was several months past the promised date.

I owe straps and a correct size lable ( That is coming Tuesday with the AFV Suit prototype!!)

It sucks when You can't personally control such things!!

Anyway.... bear with me....

[RichardT10829]

Standing by.. Irfan has been instructed to wait before making mine, he does however have my order.

You can rest easy Rob.

Remko, Irfan is quoting $150USD per suit plus postage.

And here is another image.

They say the devil is in the detail, but Vs the “Cost O Fortune” (SF) ones, they appear to be about 99% better

[shaun]

They look good to me I’m going to get my order in as I need one for the start of the rally season.
I feel it is unfair to rest the “rubber stamp “ on Jim’s shoulders . I have an original set to compare with so I can point out any issues with manufacturer my self.
But going on the images Arfan has sent me they look good to go .

WE WILL SEE !

[Jim Burrill]

Just a heads-up! I got the sample suit in. Love it! A little olive in color than my postwar fabric, but that is being picky.

Stitching is first rate! Size I got was what I consider a Large. I fit but on jeans and t-shirt a very trim fit. No crotch binding and legs and sleeves a good fit, But to be the loose coverall I am looking for I would get an XL.

Irfan is going to send me his proposed size chart tomorrow and I will share that with you all for comments.

I hope you don't think this is too mercenary, but I would encourage you to order sooner rather than later. It will take about 600 yards to do the suits I estimate, but the original order was to be 1,000 meter roll. That got pushed up to double, and then at the last minute to 3,000 yards. Granted, Irfan will probably make the two piece denim jacket and trousers for What Price Glory, but it would help Irfan and my credit card balance if we can get enough orders to cover our fabric buy.

So, if you plan to buy, treat yourself to a fresh suit before the spring MV shows begin.

Pics tomorrow!

Jim

[RichardT10829]

Cheers Jim, I thought so too when i saw the images Irfan sent, I have pulled the trigger for mine.

[Robert Bergeron]

Crossed the start line to the red parachute flare sent flying by Jim : Ordered and paid for a suit today . Cheers . Bob

[horsa]

Hey Jim, does the material appear to be pre-washed/shrunk? Maybe you should wash your sample and then try it on again over the same clothing tomorrow as a test.

Look forward to your intel tomorrow along with sizing options and procedures for placing an order. Knowing if they will shrink significantly or not will play big into what sizes people will need to order.

[Jim Burrill]

Irfan said he had the whole 3,000 yards washed at the mill and then ironed.

This was all done before the pattern cutting.

I would take it like most bluejeans and cold wash and air-dry. And err on ordering a larger size if you are snug in your usual size.

I will try a wash test tomorrow. I will use a sharpie and mark some dots across a few inches warp and weft, and was it hot and dry hot and see what happens when I measure the dots again.

[Robert Bergeron]

Jim , you are very thorough. Anyone that has ever been in any military outfit for more than two days knows for a fact that uniforms come in two sizes : Either too small or too large. We are reenacting or displaying WW2 Commonwealth troops are we not ? Stop worrying Jim , we want combat overalls not a tuxuedo... This is pretend war not a wedding ... You have done us all a great service plus you fronted a pile of money. You are awesome man. Here is a crown to add to your chevrons on your sleeve .

[Jim Burrill]

"Sorry for the delay in posting this...

I did a hot water wash and hot dryer run on the sample suit.

Like I suspected, there is shrinkage, like with bluejeans.

I measured several points, like the sleeve length, inseam, crotch to waist, shoulder to shoulder. Collar.

Worse shrinkage was in the length of 2" in the inseam. collar had no shrinkage and the sleeve length was about 1.5".

I discussed it with Irfan. He asked me to do a good iron and measure, which I did with no noticeable change.

The solution we worked out is in two parts - Irfan is recalculating the patterns to add more fabric to the pattern pieces so when you get it, it should fit looser than you expect, and after a good hot wash and hot dryer, it comes down to the size that is on the label.

You the buyer, will plan on the shrinkage in the first hot wash. Subsequent washing should be cold and probably close-line dry.

Next sizing thing is the inseam.... we have to keep it simple on the inseam because each single chest and waist could have 4-5 different inseam lengths.

If you think yourself on the tall side, ask for a Tall for your size. Irfan will send a suit that is about 2" longer int he inseam for the same chest and waist.

Some people may find they have a good general fit, but the legs are too long. In that case a local dry cleaner or tailor shop can take up the pants cuff and restitch the tab and buttons.

I just drafted a new size chart for the order form and I am sending it to Irfan now to review and confirm.

Personally, I am ordering a size 5/XL

I am 5"11. chest is 42-44 and a waist of 38". However age and occupation and a general loathing for gym workouts has me a bit larger around the belly button than I am at my belt-line. SO the XL should give me ease over summer clothes.

Irfan sent me a Large and over t-shirt and jeans it was "Snug" across the belly but the other areas fit closely. So I would order next size up.

Trying to sort out the fake size labels is a challenge. An Army Size 4 for one garment will not fit a soldier like any other Size 4 for a different garment.

You would think on induction, a soldier would be measured and told " Remember this! You are a Size 5! always ask for a size 5 from the quartermaster for everything!"

I swear, I could make a doctoral thesis on clothing sizes in WW2!

[Eric R.]

So the sizing based on modern dickey coveralls is not how it is going to be sized? That is what I thought you had originally planned on? That is a shame since I can go about anywhere and make sure the size fits.

After the size screw up I had with the bespoke pixie suit I am leery of his sizing applications.

Originally Posted by Jim Burrill

"Sorry for the delay in posting this...

I did a hot water wash and hot dryer run on the sample suit.

Like I suspected, there is shrinkage, like with bluejeans.

I measured several points, like the sleeve length, inseam, crotch to waist, shoulder to shoulder. Collar.

Worse shrinkage was in the length of 2" in the inseam. collar had no shrinkage and the sleeve length was about 1.5".

I discussed it with Irfan. He asked me to do a good iron and measure, which I did with no noticeable change.

The solution we worked out is in two parts - Irfan is recalculating the patterns to add more fabric to the pattern pieces so when you get it, it should fit looser than you expect, and after a good hot wash and hot dryer, it comes down to the size that is on the label.

You the buyer, will plan on the shrinkage in the first hot wash. Subsequent washing should be cold and probably close-line dry.

Next sizing thing is the inseam.... we have to keep it simple on the inseam because each single chest and waist could have 4-5 different inseam lengths.

If you think yourself on the tall side, ask for a Tall for your size. Irfan will send a suit that is about 2" longer int he inseam for the same chest and waist.

Some people may find they have a good general fit, but the legs are too long. In that case a local dry cleaner or tailor shop can take up the pants cuff and restitch the tab and buttons.

I just drafted a new size chart for the order form and I am sending it to Irfan now to review and confirm.

Personally, I am ordering a size 5/XL

I am 5"11. chest is 42-44 and a waist of 38". However age and occupation and a general loathing for gym workouts has me a bit larger around the belly button than I am at my belt-line. SO the XL should give me ease over summer clothes.

Irfan sent me a Large and over t-shirt and jeans it was "Snug" across the belly but the other areas fit closely. So I would order next size up.

Trying to sort out the fake size labels is a challenge. An Army Size 4 for one garment will not fit a soldier like any other Size 4 for a different garment.

You would think on induction, a soldier would be measured and told " Remember this! You are a Size 5! always ask for a size 5 from the quartermaster for everything!"

I swear, I could make a doctoral thesis on clothing sizes in WW2!

[Jim Burrill]

I have gone back to him about that. That is why I haven't published a fresh order form until I can get Irfan to use my sizes.

I expect to hear back from him today about this and will update the thread when I know more.

I mean, I bought six diffeent sized coveralls from Aramark and sent to Irfan so he could measure the main parts so he could see what amount of fabric was needed in , say, the waist, to have the suit be called an "Extra Large".

So.. the saga continues.....

[Irfan Ali]

Hello Everyone.
Now I am also available here for answering your questions.
Me and jim will complete sizes details today and jim will send details later today here about size chart etc....

[Jim Burrill]

Irfan and I have decided to use the commercial sizes from the Aramark Uniform Company that they post for their workman's coveralls. We are converting their sizes to try to resemble the WW2 era size lable. We are putting the Army Size Number together with the modern sizes of L or XXL to let you know how to fit if you go to a store and try on coveralls, find one that you like the fit, and then note the modern size.

Have to tinker with the formatting. It will be easy to read when I redo the order form. for this post, you can just work your way over to match up the size to the measurement.

I will have a check box for having Irfan add 2" to the torso - This is your size +Tall.

If you want a longer inseam, click the box for your size + Long.

size 2/S 3/M 4/L 5/Xl 6/2XL 7/3XL Size 8/4XL


Height 5'5" to 5'6"/ 5'7" to 5'8"/ 5'9" to 5'10"/ 5'11" to 8'0"/ 6'1" to 6'2"/ 6'3" to 6'4"/ 6'4" to 6'5"

Breast 34" to 36"/ 38" to 40"/ 42" to 44"/ 46" to 48"/ 50" to 52"/ 54" to 56/ 58" to 60"

Waist 28" to 34"/ 32" to 34"/ 36" to 38"/ 40" to 42"/ 44" to 46"/ 48" to 50"

Leg Seam 30/ 30/ 30/ 31/ 31/ 34/ 35

[Eric R.]

Ok have you or Irfan procured the coveralls to use for sizing the patterns or are you all just using their sizing charts.

[Hanno Spoelstra]

Originally Posted by Irfan Ali

Hello Everyone.
Now I am also available here for answering your questions.
Me and jim will complete sizes details today and jim will send details later today here about size chart etc....

Mr Ali,

Is my order on its way? It is nearly 11 September.

Please send me a confirmation in reply.

Thank you,

[Tim Bell]

Originally Posted by Hanno Spoelstra

Mr Ali,

Is my order on its way? It is nearly 11 September.

Please send me a confirmation in reply.

Thank you,
Regards,
Hanno

Hanno

Let me know what you ordered - I have several and now cannot go... maybe one of the ones I have will fit you.

Cheers

Tim

[Jim Burrill]

Talked with Irfan today. He has made up a third denim AFV for me to try on for size. If that fits, then I will post pics and go public with my most personal details of my size..

As Leonardo told the Pope.... "Soon, Soon!'

[RichardT10829]

So I shouldn't expect mine in the post on the 10th as promised.

[Jim Burrill]

Got the third sample suit from Irfan yesterday. Washed it in hottest water setting and machine dried at the longest and highest heat setting to get shrinkage.

The fit matches the label! He sent me a Large and calls it a size 4/L.

Height 5'9 - 5=10"
Breast 42" - to 44"
Waist 36" - 38"
leg seam 30"

My measurements are close to that, with the exception that I am 5"11.5" tall, ,y usual inseam for Jeans is 31" and my waist at the belt is 38" but bigger above it with "old man's pot belly"

I put it on over underwear and had my wife judge the fir. Keep in mind she is a Union Member of IATSE - the Movie industry costume folks.

She said for me, the sleeves were right, the neck was right - 19", the legs were an inch short, and the overall body length was an inch or so short.

THAT MEANS - for someone who really is the measurements on the label, it is the right fit.

Based on this report, Irfan says he has rescaled the patterns to add for shrinkage and to match the actual size with the label.

He has asked me to spread the word as quickly as I can so he can move forward with the production.

I could wear the third sample to an event, but I plan to order XL to fit my tired old flabby self.

[RichardT10829]

So do we have to re submit new forms and start over or ?

[Jim Burrill]

No, checked with Irfan and he says he has what he needs, No one needs to redo their order.

[Robert Bergeron]

Update on project would be much appreciated .