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Old 09-03-18, 23:56
Jordan Baker's Avatar
Jordan Baker Jordan Baker is offline
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I also found that one of the fulcrum pins in the top of the shifter housing was rather worn and very loose. NOS pins have been ordered and I’ll be replacing them both.

One area of concern is that the slots on the shifter may also be worn. However I don’t have any reference to compare by. At least until I get the NOS pins. If I find the slots are worn exceisvly my idea is a follows. Mount the shifter in the mill and true up the slots. It may make them a slight bit larger. This would require a slightly larger pin. My thoughts are to use some round stock from a suitably sized drill bit shaft and turn down the one end in a lathe. This way I’d be using slightly oversized pins to fit the slightly oversized slots. What are the thoughts of the membership?
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Old 10-03-18, 00:05
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
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Default Wear is common...... and helps in the sloppy shifts.

At least if you grind the teeth on shifting you can blame the worn parts.

I cannibalized parts from spare trannies and used section of the PA Chinese drift punch shaft for hardened pins. In fact we were reproducing CMP engine cranks on the week end and we used a battered drift punch to produce two pins for the crank.

Good luck with the tranny.

Bob C
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Old 10-03-18, 01:26
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Barry Churcher Barry Churcher is offline
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I have always used 50W motor oil in all my customers and my own transmissions and have never had an issue.. From Muncie 4 speeds to Clarke 5 speeds etc. 50W oil is the same viscosity as 80/90 gear oil but is a little more prone to creep so you need good seals and gaskets. This does not apply to the newer vehicles as you should use vehicle specific fluids. Even in the old B series, 2 stick Macks we used 50W.
Barry
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Old 10-03-18, 06:06
David Dunlop David Dunlop is offline
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Just a thought, Jordan, but could you add metal to the sides of the slots and then mill the slot back to match the NOS pin?

David
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Old 12-03-18, 02:10
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Did a bit more work today on the transmission. On the one I’m rebuilding the interlock plate on the underside of the top piece was badly worn. This I believe was all as a result of the loose fulcrum pin. Anyway I looked over my spare transmission and the plate although a bit rusty was in very good condition. I took it all apart today pressing out the shifter fork shafts. I sandblasted the case only to discover a crack in the cast housing. I’m not sure, but I may have done that while pressing out the shafts on the press. I’ve since sheared off the 4 rivets holding the plate in place. And will be using the good plate on my good upper housing. This part was replaceable per the manual. However I’ve been unable to locate a NOS one. So I’ll be using the good one.
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Old 12-03-18, 02:12
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Jordan Baker Jordan Baker is offline
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I also have two different lengths of shifters. I’m not too sure what is the most correct. The manual lists two different ones.
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  #7  
Old 12-03-18, 03:52
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
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Default Spare parts.....

.... I have spare covers if you need one.....

I also have an assortment of shifters...... personally I prefer the longer ones if you need a replacement let me know.....and note some rebuilt tranny unit have the shifter reversed....!!!!

Have you tried the rear bottom bearing yet...?

Cheers
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