How To: C15a Wire-3 restoration

[Jordan Baker]

Finally got all the NOS transmission parts I needed. Involved a trip to the states and a vehicle inspection by three CBSA officers.

[Bob Carriere]

So much for your innocent looks!!!!!!

[rob love]

Bob: It is said the looks are the first to go....

Jordan: Hopefully all the bearings work out. If not, let me know and I can try again using the resources I have here at home.

[Jordan Baker]

It was all good. Glad to see CBSA doing random compliance inspections, it just such a waste on me.

Im pretty confident these bearings will all work out as they are NOS ones and the markings matched the originals.

[Jordan Baker]

Spent some time on getting the intake and exhaust manifolds restored and cleaned up. I ended up using the intake from the wartime engine and the exhaust from my replacement engine. The exhaust manifold on the wartime engine was very badly pitted whereas this one was in excellent shape. Ran both through the sandblasting cabinet. A lot of junk was cleaned out of the intake around the heat riser box. I only snapped one stud on the exhaust manifold and even with some decent heat to the stud it would not come free. So I drilled it out and retapped the hole. I’ll replace it with a new stud. I’m thinking I’ll paint the exhaust manifold in a high heat black

[Jordan Baker]

Today I moved the running engine over to the cart. It’s now way easier to work on it and move it around the shop. I have also been working away on repainting the engine in grey. Using a combination of wire wheels in the hand grinder I was able to strip away all the old orange paint and get down to bare metal. I then used a few different products to degrease the metal. So far it looks great and I can’t wait to start bolting everything back on.

[Jordan Baker]

Engine is finally all painted. I went with a grey rocker cover. The oil pan is black. I will need to punch out the front frost plug and replace it with a new one. The two on the side had pin holes when I started poking around with a screw driver.

Next up for painting is the timing gear cover then installing a new seal. I also removed the large pulley harmonic balancer from the wartime engine and will be putting it on this one. That way all the pulleys are matching.

My plan for later in the week is to get most everything back onto the engine. Although it always seems to take twice as long. So we will see what happens.

[Jordan Baker]

Today was mostly spent going to and socializing at the OMVA swap meet in Acton. I also picked up my set of new tires thanks to Gord Yeo. Once I’ve gotten the engine back together and the transmission done I’ll be doing my wheels.

Once I got home I spent a bit of time in the shop and loosely installed the intake/exhaust manifolds. I need to still tighten everything up, but I was getting hungry and a little cold in the shop. So I called it a day and came inside for left over Easter dinner food.

[Jordan Baker]

Today I finished installing the manifolds onto the block. I then began adding the throttle linkages. On the original block there was a small shaft for holding the return spring. On the block I’m using there wasn’t one. However there are threaded holes for side mounts in the right position. So I decided to make up a threaded shaft that can simply screw into the hole. Once done it will easily do the job. I wanted to put in a small grove for the end of the spring to sit in. Since I don’t have a lathe of my own yet I rigged up something in the drill press. I mounted the shaft in the drill press, then my dremel in the vice. I put a small diamond cutting bit in the dremel and turned it and the drill press on. I then simply turned the vice in and let the spinning things do their thing. Everything worked great and the part will was I do what I wanted it to do.

[Bob Carriere]

On my engine, I bolted a small L bracket to the side mount holes and drilled small holes in the bracket to accept the curved end of the spring. I also added a spring directly below the vertical linkage and made a clip, held by one of the oil pan bolt, to attache the bottom section of the tall spring. This overcomes all the linkage friction and brings back the carb to idle when the throttle is relelased.

Start practicing going .....vroom vrooom vrooom.......

Cheers

[rob love]

I remember those days of turning things on the drill press. Once I finally picked up and installed the lathe a whole new world opened.

When I got the job at the Shilo museum, I would bring stuff home to turn. Then one day I sliced my thumb open pretty good...it happens, but if it's company material, then it should be done on company time and company machinery. So I scoured the DND catalogue of material for suitable lathes, checked DRMIS for available ones, and got a very very nice Afghanistan veteran: a 7-1/2 HP Colchester with digital readout that only served over there for less than a year, was shipped back and was languishing in the Montreal supply depot. I now have a favorite lathe.

[Jordan Baker]

I can’t wait to get a metal lathe. It’s on my list but so is a new deck and some landscaping around the house.

Anyway back to fun stuff out in the shop. Today I just wanted to get a few small things installed on the engine. I was fortunate that the wartime engine still had the original drain cock and steam bypass fitting. After cleaning them up I decided to use them. However the mounting holes were smaller on the new engine. Thankfully brass adapter fittings are available. I screwed in the drain fitting only to have it snap off inside the block. I didn’t have any of the extractor bits so I simply drilled it it carefully then ran a threading tap. Another trip to town was now in order and I picked up another fitting. This time I made sure to not put that one last turn into it. All worked out.

[Jordan Baker]

Finally started in on reassembling the transmission. I’m going with the Royal Purple 75/90 gear oil Rob suggested. I dipped the bearings into some of the oil before inserting them. I also dipped the the one gear set with the bushings before pressing the shaft into place.

[Jordan Baker]

The transmission is almost fully reassembled. All of the gears and bearings are back in and no parts are left over. One question I do have is about wiring the screws on the input shaft retainer. Can I use any wire that will snugly fit the holes in the screws or is there a special locking wire I should be using? Also is there a certain way I should wire them up? The manual isn’t very clear on this?

[Grant Bowker]

On aircraft there are often 2 wires used, twisted together between bolts and arranged so that the bolts could tighten without breaking the wire but not loosen. In your application, you could probably get away with one wire in almost any configuration and it would be hard for the bolts to loosen even a quarter turn before being stopped by the wire.

[Jordan Baker]

I also managed to get the NOS shifter forks installed in the top this afternoon. All went smoothly even without the special tool for depressing the little ball as the shaft goes in. I used a flat screwdriver and it worked really well. It did take a while until I managed to get the three forks in the correct position. The manual doesn’t really say much on this step. With that I did some trial fitting of it on the main case and all lined up. Next up is cleaning up my stick shifters.

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Jordan

Someplace I have a pair of photos of the transmission and the forks in the neutral possition to make life easier when reassembling transmission keep a copy of it in my manual in the shop. Will try and find and post.

To install the detent balls I just took a short lenght of wooden dowel with a notch in the end to hold the ball in the fork while pushing the shaft in. The little dowel is tagged and lives in my odd tool drawer along with all those other tools you need for working on CMPs.

On my transmissions on the front flange there are little metal links, two bolts to link, with tabs to keep the cab bolts from working loose. Once found a box of them at a flea market, on the rear seal plate the edge of the is bent to lock the bolts. When using pressed in seals with out the plate I just used Locktight. Though I guess failing the seal and plate type, one could just cut a flat plate out of light steel and drill it for the holes so that you bend the endge up to capture the bolts.

Really enjoying your progess reports, keeps my mind fresh on working on CMPs during those times when none of my trucks need work.

Cheers Phil

[Jordan Baker]

Took the past day to rebuild the distributor. I ended up taking it fully apart and cleaning up all the bits. I found a lot of very old dried up grease inside the housing that needed to be scrapped out. The body got a quick blast in the blasting cabinet removing all the old flaking paint and rust. I painted the body with some semi gloss black and then began reinstalling everything. I’m planning on using a spring pin to secure the drive gear to the shaft once I can get to the store.

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Jordan

Had the pin that holds the cam shaft gear on started to loosen? Had the one on my Pat 13 C60S shear while diving, which lead to lots of popping and banging as I rolled to a stop on the verge of the road, repaired with a rolled pin from local hardware store.

The hole in the shaft was egged out. Had to find/make a tapered ream to use a tapered pin the gear and gear as permanent repair. Since then have checked every distributor I get for looseness, so far two more have turned up that were loose.

Nice job on cleaning and restoring the next part of your engine rebuild. Waiting for the first run video.

Cheers Phil

[Jordan Baker]

The gear was very slightly loose on the shaft. The pin looked good from the outside. I filed off the stamped end of the pin. I then tried to press it out with no luck. So I set it up in the drill press and drilled it almost all the way using a slightly smaller diameter bit. Then I used a punch and knocked it out.

[Jordan Baker]

Picked up the rebuilt original heavy duty pressure plate, reground flywheel and new clutch plate today from the shop.

[Jordan Baker]

Has it really been since late April that I’ve worked on the truck? I guess so. It’s been a rather busy spring here doing all new gardens at the house. I’ve also been busy making a mini fire truck bed frame racer for a charity event coming up this weekend. Thankfully the build is finished and that project is out of the shop. Now back to CMP’ing.

Today I’ve been working on taking apart my transfer case. So far everything has come apart easily and the insides are very clean. I think I’ll just have to replace some of he bearing cones as a few rollers have some pitting. The bearing cups look good. One question is can I press them out to sandblast the case then press hem back in again? Or would I be better leaving them in and just taping them off?

[Bob Carriere]

Hi Jordan

Whenever you replace a bearing, be wise, and get a new matching bearing race.

You really do not need to sandblast the inside but if you do you must make sure that all the grits gets washed out which means removing all the cones, identify where they go and it's matching bearing....... same applies to all the shims...keep them sorted by location in a zip lock bag.

When I did mine I replaced all bearings and race and used Speedy Sleeves on the worn yokes with new seals. Once the bare inside was sandblasted I degreaser, acid washed and sealed the castings inside and out with POR 15. Did the same for the tranny and the bell housing. Overkill I know!!!!

GBS should be able to find you all the bearings, race and Speedy Sleeves if not by part number by size....ID...OD.... height.

The joke around the barn is that I took my t case apart and reassembled it seven times before I was happy with all the preload on the bearings....... the seventh time I had taken apart a separate t case just to make sure I had everything in the right order......... runs fine now....... hey what else can you do during the cold Winter months.

Enjoy

GBS

[Bob Carriere]

Consider using your engine stand when working on the tcase...... being able to turn it around and over makes it easier.

[Jordan Baker]

Just ordered all new bearing cups and cones. I should have them sometime next week.

Bob, when you say you used Speedy Sleeves, did they replace the original leather seals? Do you have part numbers? I was checking the shafts and they have a visible worn spot where they would seal on the leather. I presume this is what the speedy sleeves would fix?

As for using the engine stand....I thought about that but my engine is still mounted to it. With the transfer case in my bench I find it handy enough, especially when I drop something it only falls a few inches to the table top.

[Bob Carriere]

The Speedy sleeve is a very thin piece of sheet metal that will slide over the scored area of your yokes and insure that the new neoprene sealing surface is not worn down in the first 5 miles. They include instructions for installation ...usually using red locktite.

You need to measure the exact diam. of the yoke for GBS...... I usually run the yoke on a lathe and with a very fine file polish any raised burrs that may be present.... it leaves you with a clean surface and leaves the missing metal rut exposed. The sleeve is pushed on ONCE with locktite and it will fill the rutted gap....sleeves are only a few thousand thick and provide a slick surface for the seal to rub against. They are expensive but cheaper than having a machinist weld and resurface the yoke to spec.

Good luck!!!!

Do a quick search on SKF speedy sleeves for pictures of the cup used for installing and how the extra is peeled off.

[Jordan Baker]

Ok thanks for the explanation on them. Any part numbers for the modern neoprene seals?

Also what is GBS.

[Grant Bowker]

GBS = General Bearing Service
They are a bearing and industrial supplier in Ottawa (with other Ontario and Quebec branches). Unfortunately for you, their nearest branch to you is in Whitby. http://www.gbs.ca/en/succen.html
Another supplier Bob and I use is Industrial Solutions, also Ottawa and Quebec based http://indsol.ca/en/index.php/en
Hamilton is more industrial than Ottawa so there have to be suitable suppliers down there. Maybe:
http://www.canadianbearings.com/deli...-and-services/ or http://www.appliedcanada.com/products/default.asp
One of the things we like about the 2 Ottawa locations mentioned is that each of them have at least one staff member who has a very good memory for older bearings and a genuine will to solve challenges locating odd bearings for clients. As an example, a couple of years ago GBS was able to locate a (small) supply of the 928 bearings used in 4x4 CMP steering joints. The bearings were in Texas and they were willing to get them in virtually overnight. Unfortunately, the price was beyond what I was willing to pay for bearings to have on hand in case of a future need.

[Phil Waterman]

Originally Posted by Bob Carriere

Consider using your engine stand when working on the tcase...... being able to turn it around and over makes it easier.

Hi Jordan


As Bob suggest makes life lot easier.





Really take your time on shimming the gears and follow the manual, if not you may be pulling it because it whines. The problem I had was that my replacement gaskets were not the same thickness as the original gasket.


Cheers Phil

[Jordan Baker]

I just spent sometime power washing most of the transfer case housing parts. They spent a night in some parts cleaner to try and loosen up the gunk. Next up is taking part the de clutch housing. I’m thinking a new seal is in order by the amount of grease and gunk visible on the outside.