Starting the CMP

[Joel Culliford]

The engine temp sits right below the red on the gauge and then drops a bit then climbs back up etc etc etc.

Once the truck starts, it usually stays running, it sometimes likes to stall when I'm at a dead stop and shifting it into gear.

I was told the spark plugs were all fine and working by the students working on it.

How much suction should there be with the carb off, the teacher said he felt very little.

Joel

[Bruce Parker (RIP)]

Originally Posted by Joel Culliford

The engine temp sits right below the red on the gauge and then drops a bit then climbs back up etc etc etc.

Once the truck starts, it usually stays running, it sometimes likes to stall when I'm at a dead stop and shifting it into gear.

I was told the spark plugs were all fine and working by the students working on it.

How much suction should there be with the carb off, the teacher said he felt very little.

Joel

What do you mean by 'suction with the carb off'? Intake when you crank?

Weak pressure off the fuel pump (due to an ethanol soaked diaphragm) or spark plugs with too cool a heat range could cause difficulties but probably not after time. Maybe a weak coil breaking down as it overheats?

"Stall(s) when I'm at a dead stop and shifting it into gear" ...is that a learning how to drive standard issue???

Like most problems, you'll puzzle and puzzle until you finally find it and kick yourself because of how obvious it was.

[Joel Culliford]

Ok, now the next question. Our engine only has a 15" four blade fan and no cowl/shroud. Should I be looking for a six blade and cowl/shroud for the rad? If so, where can I find one?

Thanks in advance

Joel

[Bob Carriere]

Hi Joel

Is the truck running reliably now???

Has the truck ever boiled over????? overheated and steamed????

If not do not worry they were designed that way..... yes some had shrouds and had 5 or 6 blades but usually on gun tractors or heavy working C60........

Cheers

[Joel Culliford]

The truck is getting better. We adjusted so the generator is now recharging the battery, it wasn't really before but now we noticed that the starter switch is twitchy. Depending on how hard and where you push the engine starts better and quicker. We are going to replace the switch I'm just trying to find one locally (so we can get installed quickly, need it for a car show) before I go online and wait for like a week for the part to arrive.

We were also looking and the gauge of wire that we have going from the battery to the starter. A 4 gauge is on it, we were wondering if going to a thicker gauge would help. Or someone said hooking up two 6 volt batteries.

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Joel

All three of my Chey CMPs have 6 volt systems and have 0 gauge cable. Made up of welding cable they are no longer than necessary and have soldered ends not crimped on. Even with 6 volt batteries I have no problems starting the bigger 261 and 235 engines.

As to the start switch just take it apart and clean it. The old switch have better metal, many of the "new" are made with recycled brass with impurities.

Cheers Phil

[Bruce Parker (RIP)]

Originally Posted by Phil Waterman

Hi Joel

All three of my Chey CMPs have 6 volt systems and have 0 gauge cable. Made up of welding cable they are no longer than necessary and have soldered ends not crimped on. Even with 6 volt batteries I have no problems starting the bigger 261 and 235 engines.

As to the start switch just take it apart and clean it. The old switch have better metal, many of the "new" are made with recycled brass with impurities.

Cheers Phil

Agreed with taking the switch apart. Most of the time it's arcing/burning on the contacts causing bumps that is the problem. A little sandpaper and off you go. Bren carriers (if original) have close to 15' of 0 gauge cable going from the battery to the dash starter switch to the starter (what, they didn't know about relays?) so clean, soldered connections are critical.