How To: C15a Wire-3 restoration

[Hanno Spoelstra]

Originally Posted by Jordan Baker

Bob, when you say you used Speedy Sleeves, did they replace the original leather seals? Do you have part numbers? I was checking the shafts and they have a visible worn spot where they would seal on the leather. I presume this is what the speedy sleeves would fix?

Hello Jordan,

If you go to http://www.skf.com/group/products/se...eve/index.html, one can read everything there is to know about Speedi-Sleeves, Choosing the right size and Installing and Removing SKF Speedi-Sleeve.

HTH,
Hanno

[Jordan Baker]

Thanks all. I’ve got my reading list and will figure out what I’ll use with regards to the speedi sleeves. All of the shafts have a worn grove so I’ll have to do something.

All of the casing parts are now clean ready for PORing tomorrow. They all soaked in the parts cleaner solution, then subjected to some power washing. I then sandblasted everything. After that everything was power washed again to remove the grit residue. Then I soaked them in Marine Clean, then another power washing. After this they were hit with Metal Prep etching solution. Now everything is so clean I’d eat a dry cracker off of them.

Tomorrow my plan is to spray with POR then top coat in the blue primer. I’m thinking I’ll probably do the final Army colour once final assembly is done.

[Bob Carriere]

Nice job.....

Keep in mind that the bearing races/cones will not go in where you have POR....either tape off the bare metal area or scrap the POR with a sharp Exacto blade.

Speedy sleeves go on bare metal with locktite.... any POR will make them almost impossible to fit as the clearances is so tight.

Make sure you wash your brass shims carefully and account for the paper gasket thickness in setting the preload. Each bearing should be able to rotate by hand ...otherwise its too tight. Same for the fully assembled T case it should rotate by hand when fully put together. \

Have lots of paper towels and solvent to repeatedly wash you hands during re assembly.

Can you imagine the poor guys doing this work in North Africa in between sand storms!!!!!! while being shot at!!!!

You should have been a surgeon.

Cheers

Cheers

[Jordan Baker]

Stopped off at a bearing shop today.

Myself and the guy behind the counter measured up the seals and shafts and came to the following modern parts. Parts are ordered and I should have them tomorrow morning.

Transfer Case
Modern oil seal part number is SKF 19360 QTY3
Speedi Sleeve is SKF 99193 QTY 3

Bearings as listed in the parts manual.
Timken 332. QTY 6
Timken 339. QTY 5
Timken 342-S. QTY 1
Timken 14274 QTY 2
Timken 14137 QTY 2

[Jordan Baker]

Spent yesterday and today painted the transfer case parts. First in DOM16 ( Cnd version of POR15). Then in tie coat primer. Today was the final colour of SCC2. I also picked up the order of Speedi Sleeves and oil seals. I’ll give the paint a few days to harden up before installing the seals and the sleeves. Next week I should have the bearings and cones. I also had all the fasteners from the case in a tumbler with blasting grit in order to clean them up. I left it running for about 20hrs. Followed up with a quick buffing on a brass wire wheel they are good to go.

[Bob Carriere]

Fantastic job!!!!!!!

[Jordan Baker]

All my new bearings arrived yesterday so I made a quick run to the USA to pick them up. All went smoothly crossing the boarder both coming and going and I was home in no time.

Today I began disassembling the shafts and gears to clean them up. All has gone well except for the idle shaft. I don’t have the special tool for removing the speedometer gear. It’s tool J1737. I suspect it is simply a tool shaft that has matching female threads of the speedometer gear to screw on. I did try a bearing removal tool and it chipped part of it.

I’m not sure if I’ll need to source a new one or not.

I believe the GM# is 1811722

I see from the LWD site they have a Ford part that looks the same. Part # C01Q-17285-A. Does anyone know if they cross over?