VICKERS MK6B's resto

[colin jones]

I know it's not the right colour for the Chev engine but it would be right for the Meadows so I made a corporate decision. I will be doing a test fit in the next day or two to work out what type of mounts I will make without modifying the hull at all. What ever I make will be bolt on.

[Andy Mitchell]

Just stunning

[colin jones]

Thank you Andy
I put the drive train in today for a test but it failed I just wasn't paying attention. The cross tube cover is in the way so some modification is in order. Lucky it's not a big job but I should have measured it before. Once I modify the sump I can then make the engine mounts.

[David Herbert]

Colin,
Could I suggest that you make the new sump much wider and with as large a capacity as possible. The oil will get much hotter than it would in a truck as the engine will be working much harder and there is almost no air flow around it. If there is a section of sump with no access to the oil pump it doesn't matter as the oil trapped in it will still slowly mix with the oil 'in use' and will still radiate heat. A few fins welded on the outside would help too.

A great thing with the Chevy engine is that the distributor, plugs, starter and fuel pump are on the side you can get to and the carb should be accessable fairly easily.

A great job as always.

David

[Richard Farrant]

Hi Colin,
The Chev sump looks like it is from a 4x4 truck shaped to clear the front diff. A normal sump from a 4x2 truck will be the same capacity but equal depth throughout its length and likely not so deep overall. I am sure someone on here could give you the measurement.
Changing the sump would also entail changing the oil pick up to suit.

[colin jones]

David, I am fortunate that all the parts that need accessing are on the right side and the carb wont be a problem for access either. I certainly had a plan to increase the area of the sump and therefore the oil volume as well. I have come across a problem which I need some help . After cutting the bottom of the sump I realized that the oil pickup is right where the cross tube is and could not be in a worse possible location. In the photos you can see where the pickup is and it must go right to the bottom of the sump. My question is !
Can I move the pick up?
Can I reduce the depth of the pickup?
If it is reduced what problem could result from that?
Could I just use a flexible pickup and relocate to another lower point?
Could I cut the pickup off and just put a new pipe straight from the pump with a small filter on the end?
Does the pickup need to be vertical?
Could it be external as in a remote style?
How is the pick up secured at the top and does it just unscrew?
This is a bit out of my comfort zone so I need some expert advice.
Richard, it is out of a 4x4 blitz and the oil pickup just changed it from a easy mod to a What do I do

[Grant Bowker]

Unless I'm mistaken, the blitz oil pan (and pump) were a taller profile than most civilian cars and trucks using the 216 engine. It may be as simple as changing pump, pan and dipstick as a unit from a donor engine onto your engine. I haven't done this modification so advise confirming my suggestion before accepting it as gospel.

For what it's worth the C8 and modified conventional pattern Chevs used one part number for the oil pan and C8A to C60 used another that is noted in the 1929-1948 Master parts book as being "extra deep pan for 45% grade". Since all blitz are listed as using the same cylinder block, this suggests that the deep and shallow pans probably interchange as long as the pump matches. Unfortunately, I have no idea how much clearance this might gain you.

Perhaps there's a blitz owner out there who has a shallow pan and would like to exchange?