How To: C15a Wire-3 restoration

[Jordan Baker]

Yes i read that previous post while researching what to do and not do. But thanks for the reminder.

[Jordan Baker]

Today I finished up with the final cleaning of the driveshafts and components. After the usual marine clean and metal prep I then hand painted them in DOM16. This is the Canadian version of the POR15. It is cheaper, UV safe and supposedly be top coated anytime after curing. The downside to me is that it’s only available in gloss black. Even with hand painting it will self level to a mirror finish. Today I took advantage of the very humid weather and after about an hr the DOM16 was just tacky. I then simply sprayed on the SCC2 paint. This will then bond to the DOM16 and be very strong.

Anyway the driveshafts are all painted. I just need to now get the Spricer U joints ordered and get things assembled.

One question, are the “washers” in the caps made from industrial felt? The caps are at the end of splines. None of mine had anything left other then the split metal washer. I’m thinking felt would be good for sealing out the dirt and grime yet retaining the grease.

[Jordan Baker]

Lastly for today my friend Matt was over working on his project with some help from me. Anyway back to he truck, I took advantage of him being over so that I could try and get the transfer case back into the frame. We ended up removing the tool box and spare tire carrier, slid the transfer case under the frame on a dolly. Then using the shop hoist I was able to sling a strap and we lifted the case up and into the frame. In hindsight it would have been much much easier to do this before the cab and box were mounted on the frame. But you only live once and well everything can’t be the easy route. We did manage to get some bolts in place enough to support it without the straps and hoist. However we so far cannot get the two large bolts and spacer washers to line up. They are off about a 1/16” of an inch. I’m thinking I may have to use my porta power to force the case over just that little bit.

Lastly is there supposed to be some kind of a spacer where I’ve circled in he picture?

[Lynn Eades]

Jordan, I think a lot of the spicer seals are made of cork. The join cut has a long overlap as I remember. (remembering is not such a reliable function as it has been)
Are your spacer washers in the right place? If you took them from the lower mount and put them on the top mounts, does it all line up then?

[Jordan Baker]

Thanks for the comment that they could be cork.

As for the spacers. There is 4 of the round ones in total. The two that are circled are how the transfer case came. I could not for the life of me get these two bolts to unscrew. Even with heat and a breaker bar they wouldn’t turn loose. So I just left them alone. Also on the chassis cross piece you can see that the spacer disks went between the case and the bracket. I think it’s just a matter of getting it nudged enough with some punches and it will suddenly line up. It’s very very close.

[Jordan Baker]

New mounting hardware is on order with the fastener shop for the transmission case. I also rechecked the parts book and there was a spacer between the bottom of the frame and the mount. All is good.

Today I went and stopped by the Transaxle shop in Stoney Creek. I brought in some of the driveshaft parts and the original U joints. Before I could even begin to explain what I was looking for, he read out all of the part numbers I would need. I knew I was at the right place. I told him how many of each I needed and after a few minutes he came from the back with everything in stock. This was also the same shop that rebuilt my clutch and pressure plate.

I’ve included all of the boxes with the interesting bits layed out for future reference.

[David Herbert]

Don't you just love standardisation ! You couldn't do that with a British vehicle !

David