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Old 15-07-18, 06:09
Lynn Eades Lynn Eades is offline
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Jordan, I think a lot of the spicer seals are made of cork. The join cut has a long overlap as I remember. (remembering is not such a reliable function as it has been)
Are your spacer washers in the right place? If you took them from the lower mount and put them on the top mounts, does it all line up then?
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Old 15-07-18, 06:29
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Jordan Baker Jordan Baker is offline
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Thanks for the comment that they could be cork.

As for the spacers. There is 4 of the round ones in total. The two that are circled are how the transfer case came. I could not for the life of me get these two bolts to unscrew. Even with heat and a breaker bar they wouldn’t turn loose. So I just left them alone. Also on the chassis cross piece you can see that the spacer disks went between the case and the bracket. I think it’s just a matter of getting it nudged enough with some punches and it will suddenly line up. It’s very very close.
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RHLI Museum,
Otter LRC
C15A-Wire3, 1944
Willys MB, 1942
10cwt Canadian trailer
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Old 17-07-18, 20:26
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Jordan Baker Jordan Baker is offline
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New mounting hardware is on order with the fastener shop for the transmission case. I also rechecked the parts book and there was a spacer between the bottom of the frame and the mount. All is good.

Today I went and stopped by the Transaxle shop in Stoney Creek. I brought in some of the driveshaft parts and the original U joints. Before I could even begin to explain what I was looking for, he read out all of the part numbers I would need. I knew I was at the right place. I told him how many of each I needed and after a few minutes he came from the back with everything in stock. This was also the same shop that rebuilt my clutch and pressure plate.

I’ve included all of the boxes with the interesting bits layed out for future reference.
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Willys MB, 1942
10cwt Canadian trailer
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Old 17-07-18, 23:59
David Herbert David Herbert is offline
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Don't you just love standardisation ! You couldn't do that with a British vehicle !

David
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Old 23-07-18, 02:27
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Jordan Baker Jordan Baker is offline
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The transfer case is now all mounted. It proved to be quite the job in getting it all lined up and installed. Now that it’s out of the way I started taking the wheels off. All but one came off. The last one has proven to be incredibly stubborn.
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RHLI Museum,
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Old 23-07-18, 02:39
Bruce Parker (RIP) Bruce Parker (RIP) is offline
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e
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jordan Baker View Post
The transfer case is now all mounted. It proved to be quite the job in getting it all lined up and installed. Now that it’s out of the way I started taking the wheels off. All but one came off. The last one has proven to be incredibly stubborn.
Brake drum issue? See if there's any way to retract the (probably stuck) brake shoes. I've wrestled with your problem more than once. Oh, and don't drop the whole thing on your head seeing as three quarters of it is supported on axle stands (if it was me I'd put the other three wheels back on before going aggressive on the last one).

Last edited by Bruce Parker (RIP); 23-07-18 at 02:46.
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Old 23-07-18, 02:56
Grant Bowker Grant Bowker is offline
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I'm not clear which removal is causing trouble.

Wheel from drum/ hub? Confirm someone in past hasn't switched a left side / left hand thread to the right side or vice versa so the threads operate in reverse - tighten when you would expect loosening?

Separating the wheel half sections to remove the tire? Does keeping the old tire matter to you (it looks well weathered...)? Lots of heat on the nuts and a serious impact wrench (but be aware that too much heat can cause pyrolysis - spontaneous, uncontrolled heat/explosion of the tire)? Chainsaw the tire off the rim and then fight the wire beads off the individual rim sections?

Drum/hub from axle? Maybe undo the lower adjusters and let them move into the drum and relax the shoes? BFH? Check for a seized parking brake cable?
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