Carrier Battery

[Jim Burrill]

Had two restored Mk1's and a Mk2. In all three, I kept the original 6v battery and lamps, starter, generator, cut-off, etc, but added a 12v in the Wireless battery Box,a nd a 6v solenoid to the engine compartment wall. and then disconnected the heavy gauge wire from starter button (mk1) to the starter, and instead, ran a thinner gauge wire (18Ga?) from the starter button to the 6v solinoid. That then passed 12 v directly to the battery to the starter only.

Spun the starter like a top! No damage to starter and I could take a 12v jump from modern cars and other vintage that ran 12v.

Only downside is that the 12v was not in any charging circuit. I would use a charger before the event to top it off. I always took a spare 12v to events that was also the same size as all the other 12v we used, so we could swap around and know they would fit.

The Mk2 was similar, but simpler - just a new heavy cable from the 12v battery to the 6v starter, and then used the manual starter lever.

In all cases, used a quick disconnet terminal connection.

[Mike Gurr]

My No2 Mk 2* is still on the standard 6v system throughout using an Optima battery which all works fine. It turns over quickly and smoothly and starts well. The advantage of staying standard is that all the instruments , lights and gauges work without any need to start changing the electrics. My advice (personal opinion based on my vehicle only) is that if the wiring and starter etc are all in good condition there is no reason not to remain all original.
Electronic ignition my be of benefit to avoid having to muck about with points but I would still remain with 6v.

[Russell Boaler]

Tom, if you're already running on 12 volts then the engine should turn over quickly with any healthy 12 battery. Have you been through and checked that you haven't got a bad connection on one of the battery leads or earths somewhere?