Why would i buy a 40 Gal drum of molasses ?

[Phil Waterman]

Hi

Interesting thread, but what do you do with the residue afterward? I've only had to deal with small amounts which I let evaporate and then throw out with the trash. But 55 gallons plus the dissolved rust think my trash guy would object.

Cheers Phil

[Robert Bergeron]

Thanks Charlie ( nice pictures ) , David ( Rum , now that’s a good idea but cookies are more socialy acceptable) Lew ( your daughter i presume , nice ) & Phil ( yes, what happens with the waste ? ) for your posts guys.

I don’t know how this is going to turn out . Charlie i will check one of the tracks in about a week as you suggest .

Today i added hot water in equal amount to the molasses volume ( 50-50 ) to the track bath.

The mixture turned a greenish colour within hours .


When this adventure is over i intended to spread the mixture over part of my hay field as fertilizer ? Will i kill all life for the next 100 years ?


When does the terrible smell begin ?

I have the bath inside my truck & Carrier hangar . I regularly work in there ! It is heated at 15 degrees Centigrads .

Anyway , can anyone tell me in simple terms and explain what the heck i am doing and if it will work to free up the links and pins please ? Thanks .

[Robert Bergeron]

One more shot .I am not dreaming , the mixture of molasses and hot water turned green ! I used hot water from the faucet to make sure it mixed well with the molasses and it did .

[Tony Smith]

Originally Posted by Robert Bergeron

When this adventure is over i intended to spread the mixture over part of my hay field as fertilizer ? Will i kill all life for the next 100 years ?

You will have an excellent spring crop of NOS Carrier Track next year!

[RichardT10829]

Also used molasses to do my tracks, you are best working the links back and forth whilst they are wet during the jet wash phase.

As for flash rust issues, I sprayed my track with POR metal ready, they didn't rust after that.


Left mine in fermented molasses for two weeks and they had been seized solid prior to that.

[Robert Bergeron]

Thanks Tony and Richard . Two weeks ? Now that’s fast ! I will let the whole thing rest for two weeks then i will give it an inspection . Thanks for the suggestions Richard. Rocking the pins & links to free them up is also a very good idea . My tracks are a barn find . All the links are present and there is barely any wear at all except for the fact that the pins and links are frozen . Someone at some point thought it was a good idea to put a torch to the track to free up one link on each track to take them off a Carrier instead of pulling a pin in the conventional way ! Very strange . Anyway , i look forward to the results of this experience . From what you are saying Richard it is a sure thing ! Thanks all. Keep you posted.

[David Herbert]

Originally Posted by Robert Bergeron

All the links are present and there is barely any wear at all except for the fact that the pins and links are frozen . Someone at some point thought it was a good idea to put a torch to the track to free up one link on each track to take them off a Carrier instead of pulling a pin in the conventional way ! !

Heating up track to free it makes it go very brittle and although ok for static exhibit it is VERY dangerous to run on it as it WILL break. The great thing with molasses is that as it is a very slow process it will get between the pins and links and eventually unfreeze them. If you speed things up by heating or electrolysis or a different bath, the easy to get at surfaces will be cleaned quicker but there will be little penetration between the links and the pins. That just needs time. If the track can be flexed a little it will aid penetration if it is moved occasionally but of course there is always one joint that won't move so that is the limit on how long it takes.

With regard to the flash rusting that happens as soon as you remove it from the molasses: If you acquire some of the chemical that is used for removing calcium deposits from inside milking machines you will find that that is quite concentrated phosphoric acid which is the ideal chemical for neutralizing the instant rusting that would otherwise occur. It creates a chemically stable surface from the unstable one left by the molasses. I should mention that this product is not supposed to be used by the general public as it must be treated with great care but if you know a friendly dairy farmer it is ideal. Phosphoric acid is the active ingredient in self etching primers like Bondaprimer and is also used by dentists to etch your teeth before filling a cavity !

David

[Robert Bergeron]

Thanks David for your post. I like the idea of using molasses even more now. I will let time do the work. As for phosphoric acid , i will pass . I really don’t mind rusted tracks. What i mind is pins frozen with links . I have to get rid of the stuff afterwards. So the way ahead i think in my particular situation is to throw away the molasses in a corner of my field when i am finished . Then i might do a POR -15 light spray in the tracks after using the pressure washer to clean everything up. I will bring the tracks back inside the warm hangar and start the a fan and dehumidifier to dry them up thouroughly . I was thinking of a very light coat of motor oil for preservation . When and if i use them i can always pressure wash the oil away. Thanks again David . Cheers .

[maple_leaf_eh]

Originally Posted by David Herbert

....

If you acquire some of the chemical that is used for removing calcium deposits from inside milking machines ... but if you know a friendly dairy farmer it is ideal. ...

Quite fortuitously, Bob lives in a part of Quebec renowned for its dairy operations. And he is a personable chap, so I'm sure he can make friends with the farmers.