WW2 Canadian Wireless Valve Testers

[David Dunlop]

Now have a coat of gloss grey on the cover. It will have to cure for a bit and a couple of edges will need a touch up, but the important thing is the project is slowly moving ahead.

David

[David Dunlop]

Labelling on the cover plate, for the sockets, has now been completed.

Next step in this part of the project will be to get sockets installed on the cover. And if the weather ever warms up enough, I will see what can be done regarding the application of the finish wrinkle black paint for the case. The product recommends two or three quick, heavy (without running) coats of paint, followed by heat curing. The faster the paint cures, the better the result apparently. Since the case is plastic, my best bet at the moment, is rapid insertion in the kitchen oven set at 100 F. Assuming my lovely better half is off shopping for the day at that point in time.

David

[Bob Carriere]

When do you start production ....... I could use one for my tester.

...and how did you do such a nice job on the lettering...???

Bob C.

[David Dunlop]

Thank you for your nice comments, Bob.

I am not sure about production just yet. I am still on the dark side of all the wiring that will have to be done, but am looking forward to that challenge. The Wiring Diagram and photos Bruce McMillan posted will be a huge help in that phase.

As for the lettering, that is a product called ‘LETRASET Instant Lettering’ I actually purchased in 1976 at a local Drafting supply store, back in the day when the human brain reigned supreme and hand eye coordination a wonder. I was restoring my 1st M38CDN back then and needed a means to replicate the white ‘HIGH BEAM’ decal under the red indicator lamp on the Instrument Panel. The chap who ran our Drafting Office in the Geology Department at the UofM suggested I go and check the product out as they used a lot of it creating all sorts of geological maps for thesis publications and research papers.

I picked up several interesting sheets in white and black print and still have them, with original backing sheets and storage bags, sitting flat in a credenza drawer in our office here at home. I usually apply the lettering after measuring out where it all needs to go (usually several times) before the paint fully cures. It seems to bond really well doing that. You can apply a clear coat, but I only ever did that with the M38CDN lettering: a small rectangle surrounding the lettering to simulate a clear water transfer decal backing.

David

[Bob Carriere]

I had some from the office from years ago...... had a friend who worked in "form design" section and kept me supplied.

After many moves and eventual storage in a very hot attic my sheets were all spoiled..... I am sure that went away with the Dodo birds...... it sure was handy

Must be something available that can be done today on computers by printing on special decal sheets?????

Anybody has any suggestions...... for us to modernize!!!

Bob C.

[Grant Bowker]

It does seem Letraset has gone the way of the Dodo. (the forum spellchecker fails to recognize the name). These folks sell custom made rub transfer labelling https://imagetransfers.com/blog/how-...from-letraset/ I've never tried them but it seems an interesting concept.
Yes, it is possible to print your own water transfer decals (also called water-slide in some discussions). There are several catches to be aware of - printing white with inkjets (Alps used to make a printer that could print white) or lasers isn't the easiest, not all inkjets will work with water resistant ink.

[David Dunlop]

The valve sockets have now been mounted to the cover plate and the hardware secured with red lacquer (compliments of a sale on Revlon). The ID tags on the back of the cover are to remind me exactly what sockets I am working on when I get around to the actual wiring of them.

The last picture I could not resist taking as it is a bit of a sneak preview of how the finished assembly will look after the wrinkle black gets applied to the case.

I now need to get a final sort of the wiring on the original Stark adapter he owns from Bruce McMillan, and then the real fun can begin.

David