My CMP restoration

[Jon Bradshaw]

I have taken the transfer case off and will need to take it apart to replace all the oil seals on the drive shafts. They all seem to leak at least a bit and since it is off I might as well do them all. The darn thing is quite heavy to carry....
Does anyone have the seal numbers for these? I am sure one of you out there has cross referenced the old number with new ones?
I have also taken the filter to a local metal fab shop to see what they can do to make me a set of tops for the filter cans. The fuel tanks I got with the truck are not bad but for this one where I plan to try driving it on the road I am having them make stainless fuel tanks for it. These will last as long as I own it and never give me issues with corrosion. A bit pricier than doing the sealant swish in the tank but a lifetime fix, so worth it to me. I have more CMP's with rustier tanks so these fuel tanks won't go to waste.
For the filter pumps does anyone have the experience of stripping them? Mine seem to be very well stuck and will not pump at all. I see they are all brass except the pin holding the handle which is solidly stuck in.
I will take them apart and try to replace the leather seals but since they likely won't ever pump water it is a moot point.
The hose for the pump and tank is a very heavy rubber 3/4 inch ID and 1 1/4 inch OD I am looking into finding that now, so that I can have the 30ft on hand to do it up once I get to that point.
Still no luck finding good solid old brass taps for the back where the troops get the water out.

[Owen Evans]

Originally Posted by Jon Bradshaw

For the filter pumps does anyone have the experience of stripping them? Mine seem to be very well stuck and will not pump at all. I see they are all brass except the pin holding the handle which is solidly stuck in.
I will take them apart and try to replace the leather seals but since they likely won't ever pump water it is a moot point.

I don't have one to take apart but the attached photos may help you, if you haven't already seen them. Looks like you need to remove the lever cam in order to get the piston out.

Owen.

[Jon Bradshaw]

Thanks Owen I have one of those pics but not the cutaway view one of the lever cam action. As I said above the cam retaining pin is solidly stuck rusted in place. I may have to press it or drill it out. By the looks of the cutaway there is no way to access it from the ends to take it apart otherwise.
Still looking for the oil seal numbers if anyone has them?

[Tony Smith]

Originally Posted by Jon Bradshaw

Still looking for the oil seal numbers if anyone has them?

Originally Posted by Jordan Baker

(From the "Modern Part numbers for CMP's" thread)
Stopped off at a bearing shop today.

Myself and the guy behind the counter measured up the seals and shafts and came to the following modern parts. Parts are ordered and I should have them tomorrow morning.

Transfer Case
Modern oil seal part number is SKF 19360 QTY3
Speedi Sleeve is SKF 99193 QTY 3

Bearings as listed in the parts manual.
Timken 332. QTY 6
Timken 339. QTY 5
Timken 342-S. QTY 1
Timken 14274 QTY 2
Timken 14137 QTY 2

That number is good for the generic seal size. For example, if you want to go for traditional leather seals instead of modern neoprene, then the Chicago Rawhide part number is CR 19360.

The other seal used on the transfer case is for the shift shaft CR 5510 (or SKF).

[Jon Bradshaw]

I saw that thread after I posted last night. I took the seals off today and they are all the same size. I am looking at the paper gaskets in behind them and will likely trace and cut them out of gasket paper. Strange only one of them had a steel gasket plate the other two just had paper. Will make tracing very easy....
The second strange thing about them was that the three plates were all held on by different sized bolts. 13mm, 14mm and 15mm I thought this was strange but maybe it is like that on all of them?

[rob love]

Metric bolts on a CMP transfer case? That does not sound right.


The steel shim is likely for adjustment of the shaft/bearing end play. That will change if you use a different thickness of paper gasket, or use RTV. You may find the steel shims only on one end of a shaft.

[Gordons]

I think someone replaced the AF standard bolts with english bolts at some point in time, English BSA or Whitworth, threads are standard but the head of the bolt dia is English, probably why you have to use metric wrench or socket on the head

[Jon Bradshaw]

The extra bits up front were me making it drivable for the trip out there. I took the seat off before I thought to take a pic. The seats look pretty good, I will take a pic once they are in the cab.
Well as I said in a previous post I have had some new fuel tanks made out of stainless steel, the bill was much more than I had planned on.... Safe to say I won't ever do that again. They are amazingly well done but far too much money to ever buy again. No pics as they are exactly the same as every other CMP fuel tank....
The filter tops have been completed, they were not cheap either but since there was no good option I am OK with that. They need some final finish grinding and rounding of the edges but they fit and I had them put threaded fittings on them so they could be attached properly to the hoses and pumps.
The truck and all its parts went out to a friends acreage to get a good week of work done to them, the weather has been cold but the sandblaster (me) still works well outside in the cold. I am able to put it inside a heated garage at night and paint, letting it dry overnight. The frame and lower cab were first and now I have started on the water tank. Another day of blasting the rest of the paint and rust will be gone and the entire thing will be primer red.