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#1
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Hi Phil
I did not mean the pin that the centre ball sits on as referenced to in step 1. There is another pin that is driven in. It dissects the shaft below where the centre pin sits.
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Jordan Baker RHLI Museum, Otter LRC C15A-Wire3, 1944 Willys MB, 1942 10cwt Canadian trailer |
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#2
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So I reread the relevant sections and I think the retaining pin now makes sense me. Does it keep the centring pin from dropping down into the axle? Once that retaining pin is out the centring can drop down and the centre ball can now fall out. Initially I believed that the retaining pin actually held the centring pin in tight. This was my confusion.
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Jordan Baker RHLI Museum, Otter LRC C15A-Wire3, 1944 Willys MB, 1942 10cwt Canadian trailer |
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#3
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Hi Jordan
I believe you are correct the second or cross pin holds the center pin from backing out in the passage and letting the center ball loose. Will have to look at my disassembly pictures to see if I can find something of uses. Cheers Phil
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Phil Waterman `41 C60L Pattern 12 `42 C60S Radio Pattern 13 `45 HUP http://canadianmilitarypattern.com/ New e-mail Philip@canadianmilitarypattern.com |
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#4
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Today I got a bit of time in the shop. Everything started off well as my bulk order of grease nipples arrived and a tap and die in 3/4-16 for cleaning the threads on the connecting rod pins. (thanks Amazon two day free shipping).
I made up one of the handy greasing bolts as described by Phil Waterman for adding new grease to the 928 bearings. I soaked them in some cleaner to get the old grease loosened up inside. A few squirts of the grease gun and they were freshly greased. Then things turned frustrating. I went to install the bearings into the knuckles and one went in fine. The second one would not go in straight and kept binding. 1hr later and I’ve called it quits.
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Jordan Baker RHLI Museum, Otter LRC C15A-Wire3, 1944 Willys MB, 1942 10cwt Canadian trailer |
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#5
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Put the bearing in the freezer, and warm up the knuckle with the propane torch. It really does make a difference.
There are induction heaters that we use for heating bearings before installation onto shafts. Same principles. Last edited by rob love; 05-04-19 at 04:16. |
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#6
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Thanks for the tip. I’ll give that a try.
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Jordan Baker RHLI Museum, Otter LRC C15A-Wire3, 1944 Willys MB, 1942 10cwt Canadian trailer |
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#7
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So I finally managed to get the king pin bearings installed after a few hrs of frustration. I realized I had done some minor damage to the ball socket when removing them in the press. The hole for the 928 bearing outer edge had been squished ever so slightly. This kept causing the bearings to go in and then grab on one side. I fixed it up using a sanding drum in my dremel going very slowly until the bearings press fit in.
With the time I had today I did get the left side CV joint back together and mounted in the inner and outer knuckle. The pivot pins went in fine Two questions that did come up due to not taking enough pictures. ![]() In my first picture you can see the splined shaft, then the grease slinger and then the bearing cone. Should the raised lip on the grease slinger be facing the bearing? If the lip is towards the CV joint the slinger doesn’t sit flush. The second question is about the bearing and it’s fit on the splined shaft. It sits loose on the shaft with a considerable gap. Is that gap supposed to be there? It does match up with wear marks on the slinger
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Jordan Baker RHLI Museum, Otter LRC C15A-Wire3, 1944 Willys MB, 1942 10cwt Canadian trailer |
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