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#1
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Personally I wouldn't try to fix one that has a crack from the cyl. bore to a valve seat. It would basically be a time bomb. You would never know when the stitching would let go, and next thing water is no longer where it's supposed to be.
I am sure guys will now tune in and say they fixed theirs way back in 1763 B.C. and it's still running like a clock, but that's me. I'd want mine to be reliable, so I'd start with a better block and not waste dough on the cracked one. Just an opinion from this ole mechanic. I wish you better luck with the second one Leo.
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Bluebell Carrier Armoured O.P. No1 Mk3 W. T84991 Carrier Bren No2.Mk.I. NewZealand Railways. NZR.6. Dodge WC55. 37mm Gun Motor Carriage M6 Jeep Mb #135668 So many questions.... |
#2
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still making progress. working on linkages and pivots. took the front armor off to get at the floor. the screws for the pivots were rusted good. so i had to tac weld the heads to remove the nuts.
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#3
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trying to remove the bearing clamp from the tub. the bolt is blocked from removal till i take the exhaust guards off. they needed to come off anyway, they will need some repair too. now with the tub empty it's off to the blasters. hope to be looking at primer and paint in the next couple of weeks. started to put together a list of what i need for replacement armor. coming up quick.
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#4
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easy-peasy. . . enjoy the journey Leo !
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#5
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so after looking at the center divider i decided to make a new one as i think it will be easier than repairing what i have. the rivets came out surprisingly easy, not complaining. there was some damage to the strip that covers the seam on the floor. decided to cut out a section of strip and replace that too. there's a little rust on the hull floor but it's not worth pursuing. getting close to blasting time.
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#6
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From Fordbarn.com and the Early Ford V8 Club Please do not mount [hang] your Flathead V8 from the bellhousings '32-48. there are numerous examples of those castings failing and dropping the engines. The safest method uses an exhaust mount plate of 3/8th " steel. Purchase or fabricate yourself, and still fits your engine stand rotator socket. newc
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#7
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