Calling Rob Love or others with info... Jeep F-head engine

[Bob Carriere]

I do have the adapter kit....... was very useful on the M37....now I get to use it again.

I will try to see if I can unfold the sheet metal marker from behind the pulley then give it some white paint ...... will look for notches on the pulley can't remember seeing any today.

Sprayed raw fuel into the intake and it sure backfired.....blew off the rubber hose to the breather....so we do have spark.....just at the wrong time/place.

Stay tuned.

[Bob Carriere]

Spent another 4 hours listening to pops and whomps and other spit back from the carb but will not start..... driving me nuts.

Engine is military rebuild and we heard it run last spring in the crate.

Oil pump was not removed so the timing should be the same. Checked voltage to dizzy, lightly dressed the points with a Nichalson ignition file, points spark nicely, contacts in cap and rotor were cleaned to shiny brass. Set engine at 5BTDC....... rotor pointing at number 1......... re-instal dizzy cap.....checked spark at plugs.......cranked pooff pooff. Disconnect fuel line at carb....crank engine....lots of fuel coming out......
I am having the owner crank it with ignition switch on while I slowly maneuver the dizzy back and forth within the range allowed for timing....... hoping that once it starts we just need to tighten up the dizzy nut after some final adjustment.

I have always used this method on the Chev 6.....once it runs I can adjust to its particular sweet spot.

What the hell am I missing.......?

Since we are working inside a wood heated garage I have restrained myself from using ether....my favorite gogo juice....... BUT have squirted raw gas in the intake...... poof poof..... fire ball but will not run.

I have been known to blow up M37 mufflers with ether....blows up real good and opens up the side seam wide open.

Why won't it run?????

[David Herbert]

Valves stuck open ?

David

[Grant Bowker]

Recalling your frustrations with getting a certain 261 Chevrolet in a Cab 11 to fire up, have you made not just 100% but 200%, 500% or even 1000% certain that both the oil pump and the distributor in the M38A1 have offset keys to prevent the distributor being installed 180 degrees out of phase?

[rob love]

Pull number one plug, and turn over the engine until you feel compression. Then continue turning the engine over (the fan will be fine) until you align the marks. Now you are on no1, and the rotor should point at the no1 position on the cap.

One oddball thing about the Jeeps are that the rotor travels counter clockwise. Very easy to mix no 2 and 3 wires, which will give the effects you describe.

The Willys is overall simplicity itself.

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Bob

My stupid question, is the ignition actually firing?

When I've had similar no run situation on the list to check is that all the plugs are firing.

Test tool is made up of a strip of steel with 6 holes with spark screwed into the strip, the strip makes it easy to get a good ground. Attach leads to the plugs and slowly turn the engine over. If all is good then all the plugs fire.

No spark hook coil lead to one plug and turn engine over should fire the plug.

No spark then step two provide separate 6-9-12 volts directly to coil and repeat.

Of late I've been having problems with the points causing no spark.


Cheers Phil

[Bob Carriere]

.....1000% sure the tang is offset on the shaft and can only go in one way. since the pump was already indexed when the engine was running in the crate the dizzy as to line up.

Just to be sure, on Saturday, we removed the dizzy and tried to re insert at 180 off set and the pump would not go in .

Phil....... we cleaned up the points and verified that there was a healthy spark at the points when the engine is cranked over.........re-installed the rotor pointing approximately to the number one location...... re -instal the cap and checked for spark at the spark plugs by holding the disconnected water proof wire with the bare wire sparking on the block....all plugs were checked for spark. Tighten everything up and cranking only gave us some poof and woosh from the carburator.

We can easily crank the engine using a breaker bar and a socket on the front pulley to the timing mark not marked in yellow paint.

Aware that the dizzy turns counter clock wise..... so the rotor poins to plug wire number 1.... the next over to the left is wire no#3 than down to wire 4 and finally to wire 2.......1342 firing order......

When the rotor is inline with the upper RH corner and we turn the front pulley one full turn to the timing mark.......the rotor comes to stop at 180 degrees near number 4....one more turn of the pulley to the first timing mark the rotor now points to 5 BTDC in line with number 1 location.

I am now considering pushing the jeep outside. the confine of the heated garage and...... disconnect the exhaust flange....... and try spinning the engine with "ETHER".................

We have confirmed that the pump pushes fuel to the carb....

We have spark at the plugs

Engine is set at 5BTDC

Carbs sucks nicely when engine is cranked.

?????????????????