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  #1  
Old 05-09-20, 23:14
Andrew Rowe Andrew Rowe is offline
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Default Lynx axles

The Mk 1 is 12 spline and the Mk 2 Lynx axle is 16 splines. Lynx 1 is of a smaller diameter than Mk2. The axles from a C8A (maybe F8 as well ?)are the right length but are 10 spline. They have the correct flange thickness and 8 hole bolt up pattern. The short one is about 678mm to the inside of the flange. My theory is that you can get a C8A axle and vee the spline a little deeper and weld up and then re-cut the new spline to 12, if making a Mk1 axle. The other idea is to take the longer axle from the other side and cut it down to a short side length and then re-cut the spline. The axles I believe are just case hardened so with modern carbide cutters, can do the job. Using a C8A axle is about 38mm thick, this will get turned down to about 34.8mm where the spline needs cutting, this is for Lynx 1 only. The Lynx 2 starts with an axle that is about 43.8mm dia. , so quite possible other axles in the CMP range would work, the spline is 16 , so would have to check that against a larger CMP axle.
The Lynx gearbox uses standard Ford 4-speed truck gearbox components, but the housing is different. They have turned the main part of the gearbox 90 degree to the bellhousing part of the casting that bolts to the engine, so to give you a flat floor. The shifter housing that bolts to the side is all enclosed and uses double shifter rods to make the gearchanges remotely, if that makes sense.I Have cast up new gearboxes for the Lynx, but have still to machine them up at this stage.
Just to add some technical info:
Lynx 1 axle: 12 spline, 34.8mm at the spline dia. approx., length of spline 65mm, inner axle diff seal runs about 130mm from end
of the axle, ( spline end ) Short side axle is 678mm from the end to the inner of the flange, Long axle is 1048mm to
the inner of the flange. The flange is about 1/2" thick and about 134mm dia. with 8 holes @ 114mm dia., NO
counter sunk drilled for these holes like other CMP axles.

Lynx 2 Axle: 16 spline, 43.8mm at the spline dia. approx., length of spline 80mm, inner axle seal runs about 90mm from the end
of the axle ( spline end ). Short axle is 678mm to the inner of the flange and long is 1048mm to the inner of the
flange. Flange and holes are the same as Lynx 1.

If anyone is passing by a bunch of CMP F8 or F15 axles, it would be interesting to see what these measure at? I do know C8AX axles , could be converted to Lynx 1 as I have mentioned above as they are the right length and start life at about 38mm, so there is enough meat to work with when re-machining......if my theory works out?

Cheers Andrew.
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Last edited by Andrew Rowe; 06-09-20 at 02:12. Reason: update info.
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  #2  
Old 06-09-20, 02:50
lynx42 lynx42 is offline
Rick Cove
 
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Location: Paynesville, AUSTRALIA
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew Rowe View Post
The Mk 1 is 12 spline and the Mk 2 Lynx axle is 16 splines. Lynx 1 is of a smaller diameter than Mk2. The axles from a C8A (maybe F8 as well ?)are the right length but are 10 spline. They have the correct flange thickness and 8 hole bolt up pattern.
r6eoet7apnyz.jpg

Andrew, Lynx 1 Mk's 1,11,111, and 111* all have 6 stud bolt set up not 8. The wheels are like those on the Chev HUP's. The tyre size is also unusual at 9.25" x 16. I am running 9.00X16 tyres as the others are not available.

Lynx continues 072.JPG

A bit of a difference in rolling circumference, but that shouldn't cause me too many problems.

Lynx Continues Tyres 025.JPG




I was luck to get my original gearbox. You will have a few blokes looking out for your new cast housings as I have had many enquiries re the gearbox availability.

Cheers Rick.
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  #3  
Old 06-09-20, 04:01
Andrew Rowe Andrew Rowe is offline
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Hi Rick, with regards to the axles, I was talking about the axle flange that bolts to the inner hub is 8 bolts on ALL models.
You are talking about the wheel rims, that use 6 stud Wheel nuts on Lynx 1 and
8 stud Wheel nuts on Lynx 2. The 6 stud wheel rims are of lighter construction than the 8 stud wheel rims, which use the standard heavier CMP 9.00 x 16 rim on the Lynx 2. With regards to my gearboxes, I have to find a friendly guy ( meaning cheap !) with a CNC centre mill/lathe? to program the line- boring of the holes and the facing off of the surfaces. All hole and face dimensions are that of the standard Ford 4 speed "crash" gearbox. They are excellent quality castings ready for machining, Calling anybody out there with the skill and equipment! , Cheers Andrew
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Valentine MkV
Covenanter MkIV
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M3 Stuart
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  #4  
Old 06-09-20, 09:29
Andrew Rowe Andrew Rowe is offline
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Default Lynx Differential

I probably went off on a tangent talking about axles....too much covid lockdown! , I guess if you were talking differentials, there were 3 types for the Lynx, serial 0 to 201 was a 5.83 ratio with 14 &7/8" across the width of the flange housing , serial 201 to 3000 is 5.83ratio and is 12&1/4" across the width of the flange housing, from serial number 3000 the ratio is 6.66 and is 14 &7/8" across the flange housing. This last diff is basically looks like the same
dimensions as the standard Ford 3 ton axle, similar to Bren Carriers, except they use C8A backing plates and the axles are different lengths., Cheers A.
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Valentine MkV
Covenanter MkIV
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M3 Stuart
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  #5  
Old 08-01-21, 16:37
Alastair Thomas Alastair Thomas is offline
F60S
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Writtle, UK
Posts: 134
Default Chore horse

Well this COVID business is a bind. I cannot get to my Lynx nor can I collect the chore horse I bought recently, because of the lock down.
However, I am puzzled.
It is my understanding that the Lynx I carried a chore horse because the dynamo was not up to keeping the battery topped up when the Mk19 set was being used. This explains the uprated dynamo fitted to the Lynx II (and the two speed dynamo fitted to the Dingo).
My question is: where should the chore horse be stowed? The stowage diagram does not mention it and I have not found any Footman loops or otherwise to give me a clue.
Thanks
Alastair
F60S
Lynx I MkIII*
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File Type: jpg Chore Horse [2].jpg (88.4 KB, 1 views)
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  #6  
Old 09-01-21, 00:25
Harry Moon Harry Moon is offline
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Default possible source of parts.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew Rowe View Post
Hi Rick, with regards to the axles, I was talking about the axle flange that bolts to the inner hub is 8 bolts on ALL models.
You are talking about the wheel rims, that use 6 stud Wheel nuts on Lynx 1 and
8 stud Wheel nuts on Lynx 2. The 6 stud wheel rims are of lighter construction than the 8 stud wheel rims, which use the standard heavier CMP 9.00 x 16 rim on the Lynx 2. With regards to my gearboxes, I have to find a friendly guy ( meaning cheap !) with a CNC centre mill/lathe? to program the line- boring of the holes and the facing off of the surfaces. All hole and face dimensions are that of the standard Ford 4 speed "crash" gearbox. They are excellent quality castings ready for machining, Calling anybody out there with the skill and equipment! , Cheers Andrew
What I understand is that the transmission, remote shifter, clutch and throttle controls on the Lynx1 are all of the shelf from the bus operations at Ford. So a source for a transmission could be an old 36-42 Ford powered Bus.
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  #7  
Old 09-01-21, 00:26
Harry Moon Harry Moon is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Burnaby B.C. Canada
Posts: 1,128
Default rear engine cracker box.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Transit_Bus
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  #8  
Old 09-03-25, 17:11
Alastair Thomas Alastair Thomas is offline
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Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Writtle, UK
Posts: 134
Default Lynx I dynamo

My brothers took the Lynx to Normandy last year and had a lot of fun. Right at the end of the week the battery went flat and following a lot of help from fellow enthusiasts, the dynamo was declared u/s.
I took it to my local auto electricians and they tell me that the armature is u/s and needs a rewind. £300 was quoted.
In trying to avoid this expense I dug out all our spare dynamos. One is clearly marked 6v (the Lynx runs on 12 v).
Another has no markings at all and the third looks as though it is a three brush device. It is marked FordQ-5.
My question is can anybody tell me how to tell the difference between a 6v device and a 12v one?
Having accidentally reverse polarised my dynamo on my 1948 Riley once, I wondered why the red light would not go out. I measured the voltage at the output of the dynamo and it was 60v in the wrong direction. Problem solved. However this prompts me to ask what is the difference between 6v and 12v dynamos? The only suggestion I can come up with is that the armature of the 6v one presumably has thicker windings as it is required to supply twice the current (at least in theory).
Does this mean that I can:
a) use a 6v dynamo in a 12v set up, or
b) use the armature from a 6v dynamo in a 12v dynamo?
Kind regards,
Alastair
p.s. what is the tin can seen in the photo below?
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Dynamo.jpg (549.8 KB, 3 views)
File Type: jpg Fixing the dynamo.jpg (868.4 KB, 3 views)
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  #9  
Old 10-03-25, 12:51
charlie fitton's Avatar
charlie fitton charlie fitton is offline
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Location: Maryhill Ontario
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Default

The tin can is a voltage cut-out relay.

(Hopefully your helpers checked that)

The 6/12V armature is an interesting question. My gut leans towards yes, But experts actually know.


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