Lynx I MkIII purchase

[lynx42]

Originally Posted by Andrew Rowe

The Mk 1 is 12 spline and the Mk 2 Lynx axle is 16 splines. Lynx 1 is of a smaller diameter than Mk2. The axles from a C8A (maybe F8 as well ?)are the right length but are 10 spline. They have the correct flange thickness and 8 hole bolt up pattern.

r6eoet7apnyz.jpg

Andrew, Lynx 1 Mk's 1,11,111, and 111* all have 6 stud bolt set up not 8. The wheels are like those on the Chev HUP's. The tyre size is also unusual at 9.25" x 16. I am running 9.00X16 tyres as the others are not available.

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A bit of a difference in rolling circumference, but that shouldn't cause me too many problems.

Lynx Continues Tyres 025.JPG




I was luck to get my original gearbox. You will have a few blokes looking out for your new cast housings as I have had many enquiries re the gearbox availability.

Cheers Rick.

[Andrew Rowe]

Hi Rick, with regards to the axles, I was talking about the axle flange that bolts to the inner hub is 8 bolts on ALL models.
You are talking about the wheel rims, that use 6 stud Wheel nuts on Lynx 1 and
8 stud Wheel nuts on Lynx 2. The 6 stud wheel rims are of lighter construction than the 8 stud wheel rims, which use the standard heavier CMP 9.00 x 16 rim on the Lynx 2. With regards to my gearboxes, I have to find a friendly guy ( meaning cheap !) with a CNC centre mill/lathe? to program the line- boring of the holes and the facing off of the surfaces. All hole and face dimensions are that of the standard Ford 4 speed "crash" gearbox. They are excellent quality castings ready for machining, Calling anybody out there with the skill and equipment! , Cheers Andrew

[Andrew Rowe]

I probably went off on a tangent talking about axles....too much covid lockdown! , I guess if you were talking differentials, there were 3 types for the Lynx, serial 0 to 201 was a 5.83 ratio with 14 &7/8" across the width of the flange housing , serial 201 to 3000 is 5.83ratio and is 12&1/4" across the width of the flange housing, from serial number 3000 the ratio is 6.66 and is 14 &7/8" across the flange housing. This last diff is basically looks like the same
dimensions as the standard Ford 3 ton axle, similar to Bren Carriers, except they use C8A backing plates and the axles are different lengths., Cheers A.

[Alastair Thomas]

Well this COVID business is a bind. I cannot get to my Lynx nor can I collect the chore horse I bought recently, because of the lock down.
However, I am puzzled.
It is my understanding that the Lynx I carried a chore horse because the dynamo was not up to keeping the battery topped up when the Mk19 set was being used. This explains the uprated dynamo fitted to the Lynx II (and the two speed dynamo fitted to the Dingo).
My question is: where should the chore horse be stowed? The stowage diagram does not mention it and I have not found any Footman loops or otherwise to give me a clue.
Thanks
Alastair
F60S
Lynx I MkIII*

[Harry Moon]

Originally Posted by Andrew Rowe

Hi Rick, with regards to the axles, I was talking about the axle flange that bolts to the inner hub is 8 bolts on ALL models.
You are talking about the wheel rims, that use 6 stud Wheel nuts on Lynx 1 and
8 stud Wheel nuts on Lynx 2. The 6 stud wheel rims are of lighter construction than the 8 stud wheel rims, which use the standard heavier CMP 9.00 x 16 rim on the Lynx 2. With regards to my gearboxes, I have to find a friendly guy ( meaning cheap !) with a CNC centre mill/lathe? to program the line- boring of the holes and the facing off of the surfaces. All hole and face dimensions are that of the standard Ford 4 speed "crash" gearbox. They are excellent quality castings ready for machining, Calling anybody out there with the skill and equipment! , Cheers Andrew

What I understand is that the transmission, remote shifter, clutch and throttle controls on the Lynx1 are all of the shelf from the bus operations at Ford. So a source for a transmission could be an old 36-42 Ford powered Bus.

[Harry Moon]

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Transit_Bus

[Alastair Thomas]

My brothers took the Lynx to Normandy last year and had a lot of fun. Right at the end of the week the battery went flat and following a lot of help from fellow enthusiasts, the dynamo was declared u/s.
I took it to my local auto electricians and they tell me that the armature is u/s and needs a rewind. £300 was quoted.
In trying to avoid this expense I dug out all our spare dynamos. One is clearly marked 6v (the Lynx runs on 12 v).
Another has no markings at all and the third looks as though it is a three brush device. It is marked FordQ-5.
My question is can anybody tell me how to tell the difference between a 6v device and a 12v one?
Having accidentally reverse polarised my dynamo on my 1948 Riley once, I wondered why the red light would not go out. I measured the voltage at the output of the dynamo and it was 60v in the wrong direction. Problem solved. However this prompts me to ask what is the difference between 6v and 12v dynamos? The only suggestion I can come up with is that the armature of the 6v one presumably has thicker windings as it is required to supply twice the current (at least in theory).
Does this mean that I can:
a) use a 6v dynamo in a 12v set up, or
b) use the armature from a 6v dynamo in a 12v dynamo?
Kind regards,
Alastair
p.s. what is the tin can seen in the photo below?

[charlie fitton]

The tin can is a voltage cut-out relay.

(Hopefully your helpers checked that)

The 6/12V armature is an interesting question. My gut leans towards yes, But experts actually know.


f

[Andrew Rowe]

I have done many a conversion of generators from 6v to 12 volt. We use the original body and armature of the 6 volt and get a 12volt gen, something like a Lucas C45, 12volt ( The 45 means 4.5" in dia. ) so find one that is roughly the same diameter as your original that you want to keep. Take the field coils from this gen and put them into the 6volt, and you should be able to achieve 12volts. You can normally find these old 12 v Lucas gens. for $5
Find a gen. that matches your dia. , screw pattern for fixing the fields, normally just two field coils, and put them in the correct way. You can test your new rebuild by "motoring up" , but also test on a testbed to make sure you achieving the desired output , Cheers Andrew.