1944 C-15A-Wire-5 Restoration

[Bruce Parker (RIP)]

On the bottom to the right of the pull handle there is a small angle piece. Is that for a padlock to hold the sliding panel down?

Originally Posted by David Dunlop

Here is what a complete Generator Compartment Sliding Door Latch looks like. The rubber wedge tip is hidden behind the lip of the doorframe on the right side.

The latch is in the ‘OPEN” position in this photo. This means you can lift the door up to any height and let it go and the latch will prevent it from sliding down.

To close the door, you flip the counterweighted swing arm clockwise. You can then lower the door, but it will lock closed as soon as you try to open it again, unless… you flip the swing arm counter clockwise.

These were a very common item for wooden sash windows in homes well into the 1970’s, when aluminum sliders took over the market. It would not surprise me in the least if small local Mom and Pop hardware stores still have some stock of these sitting in a corner somewhere. Very likely in cottage country somewhere.

You could buy complete latches, replacement swing arms and even the wedge rubber tips at one time. The tips can wear out or harden and get slippery.

Be wary. Another company showed up late in the game with a very similar product, but the swing arm had a longer and curvier profile and was too long to work properly in this style latch.

David

[David Dunlop]

Affirmative, Bruce. A post war addition for some reason. Significantly less than half the 2K1 boxes at Princess had that feature.

The only original padlock fittings were the tool and POW brackets and the exterior rear door handle assembly that had the two padlock loops cast into it: one on the handle and the other on the estuseon plate. They only lined up when the handle was in the closed position.

David

[Robert Bergeron]

Thank you Gord , that is truly awesome to post the actual Caution plate ! Thanks Bruce and David for the great discussions and details . Here is my interpretation of what the 12 V caution would look like . The = sign is for direct current . The 10 stands for 10 Amps , the fuse on that circuit . I got the idea from the 110 V plate with the ~ sign for alternating current and the 60 for the 60 Amp fuse on the AC circuit. Ideas ?

[Wayne Hingley]

My understanding of the 60~ was it stood for 60Hz (wavelength) power.

[Grant Bowker]

60~ might be for 60 Hz current (as opposed to 50 Hz that I believe was/is more common in Europe).

Standardization of frequency in the transmission grid seems to be more recent than I originally thought. Looking at Wiki, it states that parts of southern Ontario were on 25 Hz until at least 1946.

[David Herbert]

Wayne is correct but the ~ sign is indicating 'frequency', which nowadays uses the unit Hertz (Hz). The specification that it is AC current is covered by the written 'AC'. You can't use wavelength to describe AC electricity. Wavelength applies to radio waves and waves in the sea. The longer the wavelength, the lower the frequency is.

If the 60 referred to current it would have 'A' (for Amps) after it. DC current does not have a frequency so would not need that line of information.

David

[Gord Falk]

I do have an extra 110V plate if you want it, just provide me your mailing address.

I acquired 4 wireless boxes for my restoration project. 3 of them were shells only, but 1 had much of the wiring intact. I am leaving this this untouched until I transfer the wiring to the box I am restoring so I have a template where everything goes. I checked this box for the 12 Volt plate, there was no plate and no "shadow" of one ever being fitted.

The box I chose to restore was 4 owners ago the one Dave Dunlop started restoration on many years earlier.

Gord

[Robert Bergeron]

Thank you so much Gord . Email sent with my address . Hope my 5 -6 years of posting on this thread will help you with your own restoration .I have a few parts leftover if you need them , just ask . Bob