M38Cdn Refurbishment

[Peter Phillips]

I'm getting more comfortable with the paint gun and am mildly happy with the results........and I'm finally bolting parts back on. I've received everything I needed to re-assemble the brakes including new master cylinder, steel and flexible brake lines, wheel cylinders and re-used the brake shoes as they are good. I also installed new bearings and seals and inner stub bushings. Got some bad news on the motor from the builder though....seems the front pulley had worked itself loose at some time and destroyed the keyway and wore down the front of the crank. Someone has been into this thing as he also found knurled pistons and none of the internal fasteners seemed to be at the correct torque. I managed to find a re-conditioned crank near me ground .010 under on the mains and throws and ordered .040 over pistons, rings, all bearings, frost plugs, oil pump and complete valve train components. I have a NOS head that I'll throw on for good measure too. Hoping to have the brakes adjusted and bled and back on wheels by next Monday if everything goes as planned.

[rob love]

There was actually a bulletin about the loose pulley nut causing the keyway to elongate.
20 years ago I bought a reasonably new van from the BSM of the artillery battery was attached to. It had a knocking engine. I negotiated the price based on that. Went to pull the engine and yep...loose pulley. The pair of artillery guys he had do some engine work did not torque the nut. It was still early enough in the wear that I was able to cut a new keyway in the pulley and the van continued on for another decade.

[Peter Phillips]

Originally Posted by rob love

There was actually a bulletin about the loose pulley nut causing the keyway to elongate.
20 years ago I bought a reasonably new van form the BSM of the artillery battery was attached to. It had a knocking engine. I negotiated the price based on that. Went to pull the engine and yep...loose pulley. The pair of artillery guys he had do some engine work did not torque the nut. It was still early enough in the wear that I was able to cut a new keyway in the pulley and the van continued on for another decade.

That doesn't surprise me at what engines can handle in terms of abuse and still work. Glad that repair worked out for you I was hoping the crank can be salvaged but according to the builder it's not worth the effort so I'll concede to the expert.

[Peter Phillips]

Can't believe it's been so long for an update! This has definitely been a marathon thus far with a few u-turns added for good measure
The brakes went together well and I even made a custom adjustment tool to help out. I'm trying to solve some very pesky leaks at the copper crush gaskets even though it's all new components....I've ordered more parts so I'll get it eventually. Let's talk springs.....I had the springs re-arched in Edmonton and have a bit of a dilemma. You can see the device I made to pre-load the springs so I can bolt up the shocks and brake lines. Then I can slowly unload them later on by loosening the nut. I've reached out to a few brethren from here and am assured this is quite normal until the major components are installed to add weight. It's a bit unnerving is all. I'm in the process of going through the tranny and t-case for serviceability, seal them up nicely and hopefully get them painted up soon. The motor is being re-assembled so I may see it soon too!

[Barry Churcher]

Peter if you still have the old copper gaskets just reuse them. When installing new brake parts we never use the new washers as there are too many leaks. The old washers seem to be leak proof.
Cheers, Barry

[rob love]

There does not seem to be a correct torque for the new copper washers.I have tried them from loose to almost stripping the cylinder tight.



I got so frustrated trying to use new copper washers with silicone brake fluid, that I finally smeared the thinnest/lightest coat of silicone glue on them possible. That did the trick, but is not an approved method. My thought was silicone with silicone....what could go wrong?

[Peter Phillips]

Barry, unfortunately I think they're gone already, dang it! Never would've guessed that would be the preferred method than using new ones, interesting

Rob funny you mention that as I've tightened these beyond what I would normally do...and I've done a lot of brake work since 1984! I went with DOT 4 for this system as it's driven in dry conditions and parked in a climate controlled shop.

There's got to be a work around for shoddy copper gaskets? I've got a leak at the front axle brass tee, and at the 2 larger ones on the master cylinder banjo bolt. The rear tee and front wheel cylinders are good, weird?