Restoration of a Chevrolet WA

[Lynn Eades]

Before you start hammering the pistons, light a diesel fire as I suggested before. The reason is that the fire will slowly heat the piston and in turn will expand the rings. As the rings heat and expand, they will move around the bore breaking free any rust that is bonding them to the bore. So, use a small amount of diesel. It won't burn without something like a bit of rag in there. As the last of it burns, is when most of the heat will travel through the metal. It takes time to generate the heat. Once that's done a bit of light oil in the bores to soak for a while will help. Maybe after that, a judicious pry both ways might get things moving. You will feel better about your bores and pistons if you are not trying to hammer the snot out of them. Take your time. good luck.

[Bob Carriere]

I do have an old block we just took part and it is stuck fast real good......crank is out and we salvaged the flywheel, bell housing and clutch pack......now is the time to try the burning diesel trick and will post the results.......

Bob C

[Ganmain Tony]

Would Kero be an alternative to Diesel Lynn?

Not trying to muddy the waters, just that I have a fair bit of Kero and no Diesel.

[Lynn Eades]

Tony, give it a go. Be carefull!

[Paul Singleton]

Originally Posted by Ganmain Tony

Would Kero be an alternative to Diesel Lynn?

Not trying to muddy the waters, just that I have a fair bit of Kero and no Diesel.

Kerosene should be fine. It’s just basically a more refined diesel fuel. Kerosene burns cleaner than diesel fuel and used in heating appliances and jet engines. I had a kerosene portable heater and found that it worked fine with low sulfur diesel without any problems. The flash point is nearly the same.

[Bob Carriere]

....and you can roast some marshmellows......

[Lynn Eades]

Basically a bit of diesel sitting on top of a piston would be difficult to get burning. The bit of rag acts like a candle wick and probably generates not much more heat.

[Philippe Jeanneau]

Ok, I am now convinced to do the extra work (also wonder how we went from Rear cargo Bed to this...) and remove the cylinder head hoping that I can get the engine free and then deal with the rest... I am however surprised and maybe a little disturbed that (if I understood Robert correctly) to remove the clutch and pressure plate I have to remove the crankshaft??? That seems ridiculous- I have to criticize the (beyond) poor design if it is the case...

Here I was hoping to:

1- Remove valve train
2- Remove head bolts and lift head...
3- Try Diesel fuel with a rag... Head has been soaking in Mystery oil and Penetrating Oil for 8 weeks...

If I get that lucky I would then rotate engine, clean the crud and...

1- Remove the oil pan
2- Remove the pistons and check for broken rings...

Once that is done I would remove the 4 speed gearbox... I understand that 2 bolts hold it from the underside... After that I would also:

1- Remove pressure plate and clutch disk from the bellhousing... Again, if I understood Robert correctly, that cannot be done without removing the crankshaft?? I am in pure disbelief...

If so, that is pure insanity!... So, to do a regular clutch job on a 216 engine you have to remove the crank??? I am completely shocked and surprised by the very poor design... and from GM at that.

Sorry for the rant, but I had never seen anything like it... Still in shock!