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#1
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....and you can roast some marshmellows......
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Bob Carriere....B.T.B C15a Cab 11 Hammond, Ontario Canada |
#2
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Basically a bit of diesel sitting on top of a piston would be difficult to get burning. The bit of rag acts like a candle wick and probably generates not much more heat.
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Bluebell Carrier Armoured O.P. No1 Mk3 W. T84991 Carrier Bren No2.Mk.I. NewZealand Railways. NZR.6. Dodge WC55. 37mm Gun Motor Carriage M6 Jeep Mb #135668 So many questions.... |
#3
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Ok, I am now convinced to do the extra work (also wonder how we went from Rear cargo Bed to this...) and remove the cylinder head hoping that I can get the engine free and then deal with the rest... I am however surprised and maybe a little disturbed that (if I understood Robert correctly) to remove the clutch and pressure plate I have to remove the crankshaft??? That seems ridiculous- I have to criticize the (beyond) poor design if it is the case...
Here I was hoping to: 1- Remove valve train 2- Remove head bolts and lift head... 3- Try Diesel fuel with a rag... Head has been soaking in Mystery oil and Penetrating Oil for 8 weeks... If I get that lucky I would then rotate engine, clean the crud and... 1- Remove the oil pan 2- Remove the pistons and check for broken rings... Once that is done I would remove the 4 speed gearbox... I understand that 2 bolts hold it from the underside... After that I would also: 1- Remove pressure plate and clutch disk from the bellhousing... Again, if I understood Robert correctly, that cannot be done without removing the crankshaft?? I am in pure disbelief... ![]() If so, that is pure insanity!... So, to do a regular clutch job on a 216 engine you have to remove the crank??? I am completely shocked and surprised by the very poor design... and from GM at that. Sorry for the rant, but I had never seen anything like it... Still in shock! ![]() |
#4
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You can remove the clutch and flywheel through the bottom of the bellhousing. It's not easy but can be done.
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#5
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The clutch does come out through the bottom of the bell housing. I have found that holding the pressure plate up and getting the clutch disc out first works better for me. It can be a finger pinching job if you’re not careful.
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#6
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I think it is about not being able to turn the crank, is the problem.(i think?)
Normally there is no need to remove the crank.
__________________
Bluebell Carrier Armoured O.P. No1 Mk3 W. T84991 Carrier Bren No2.Mk.I. NewZealand Railways. NZR.6. Dodge WC55. 37mm Gun Motor Carriage M6 Jeep Mb #135668 So many questions.... |
#7
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That's it. You don't need to remove the crank, but you need to be able to rotate the Flywheel to 6 positions (or even 3 positions, and do 2 bolts at a time) to remove the bolts holding the Pressure Plate to the Flywheel.
You DO need the gearbox off and the lower cover off the bellhousing. To re-install the clutch, you will need a spare/old gearbox input shaft or a centering tool (that often comes with the clutch kit these days). However, if you're going to pull the motor out to eventually rebuild it, I wouldn't worry too much now about removing the clutch while it's in the truck. Get working on seeing if you free up the engine to decide if it's worthwhile rebuilding it, and IF you do pull the engine out, then take off the bellhousing and remove the clutch on your workbench or even on the ground. |
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