Red light in MKII Carrier

[Ron Pier]

The trick I've used many times on my 6V motorcycle dynamos to test them is:-

Take the two wires that come out the dynamo F&D, connect them together and connect them to the live end of a single filament bulb (12V is best for this purpose) Earth the cap of the bulb to the dynamo with crocodile clips and run the engine. The bulb should light up and glow brighter as you rev it up. If it doesn't, As already suggested, check/replace the brushes, clean up the end of the commutator with thinners/switch cleaner etc. The build up of carbon dust and shite can insulate the commutator and or cause the brushes to stick up in their holders.

By the same system you can test/motor the dynamo on the vice by connecting those two same joined wires to the poss of a battery and earth the body to the neg side. The dynamo should motor in the same direction that it charges at.

I've said an awful lot here for what is a very simple test operation. Ron

[charlie fitton]

Have you checked the cut-out relay?

[Robert Bergeron]

Thank you Bruce , Rob, Ron & Charlie . All very good and most generous advice . All that know me more intimately know what my trade was for 32 years in the service and it was not REME like my father . Charlie , what does that relay look like and where is it located ? Picture ? I will look at the relay before skinning my knukles as Bruce so explicitly described ang bringing the generator to a specialised shop ....Ahahaaaa, thanks Bruce .

[Robert Bergeron]

Here are pictures of my new cutoff and surrounding wires.Is the cutoff relay the blue «*thingy « to the left of the top picture ? What is the relay’s purpose and what is the description so i can order a new one please ? Many , many thanks .

[rob love]

That blue thingy might be a diode someone put in. It could be faulty. Testing it is easy enough...it is a one way valve for electricity. Disconnect the wire to the screw at the cutoff in order to isolate the diode. Put the leads of a multimeter set to ohms onto each end of the diode. You may or may not get continuity. Then switch the leads around. You may or may not get continuity. One way should give you continuity and the other will not. If you don't get continuity either way, then the diode is your problem. Don't be touching the bare ends of the leads when doing this test...you also have a certain measure of continuity.



You can also do this with a self powered testlight. The DC power should only go through one way.



If the diode is bad, you can toss it and run the wire straight across. I understand why someone put in the diode, although quite frankly, that is what the cutoff is for. Some of the replacement cutoffs are just that....a diode hidden under the cover. That blob on the diode may indicate it is bad, or it may just be bird poop or debris.


Edited to add: It may also be a capacitor, to replace the original filter unit. Either way, toss it and run the wire straight to ground. That blob on the side does not look kosher no matter which it is. You are out in the country....I doubt the lack of a filter will disturb anyones televisions or radios. You could run a short test lead with two alligator clips to see if that is your problem....just attach a lead to each side of the blue thing.


Edited one more time: Or is the blue thing just a blue butt connector? In that case it is likely just a red herring. It should have continuity through it. Pull on both wires going to it and make sure they are tight. If one comes out, you could replace it or you could use solder and heatshrink.

[Robert Bergeron]

No conductivity Rob . Off it goes . Will report back . Thanks !

[Robert Bergeron]

1 indicates 0 ohms according to the manual ( yes i had to read the manual .... ) . First time i use one of these . I have other skills but i am learning with the help of my friends from MLU !