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Old 07-02-21, 21:57
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Robert Bergeron Robert Bergeron is offline
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No conductivity Rob . Off it goes . Will report back . Thanks !
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Last edited by Robert Bergeron; 07-02-21 at 22:34.
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Old 07-02-21, 21:59
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1 indicates 0 ohms according to the manual ( yes i had to read the manual .... ) . First time i use one of these . I have other skills but i am learning with the help of my friends from MLU !
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44 GPW / 44 C-15-A Cab 13 Wireless 5 with 2K1 box X 2 /
44 U.C. No-2 MKII* /
10 Cwt Cdn Brantford Coach & Body trailer /
94 LSVW / 84 Iltis

Last edited by Robert Bergeron; 07-02-21 at 22:21.
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Old 07-02-21, 22:12
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I think it is just a sleeve ( Blue plastic ) over a bad joint or connection sleeve . The wires must of come seperated with time . I started the engine , the red light is very bright . When i accelerate the rpm’s the red light fades considerably but it remains on but very faintly . Normal ?
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44 GPW / 44 C-15-A Cab 13 Wireless 5 with 2K1 box X 2 /
44 U.C. No-2 MKII* /
10 Cwt Cdn Brantford Coach & Body trailer /
94 LSVW / 84 Iltis

Last edited by Robert Bergeron; 07-02-21 at 22:44.
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Old 07-02-21, 22:23
rob love rob love is offline
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Yep, it is just a plain old butt connector. Join the two wires together and see what happens.

Ohms is a measurement of resistance. One way to do a quick check is to touch the two terminals of the ohmeter together and look at your reading. That is a perfect circuit with little to no resistance. Now check them again on the item being tested. If you are testing a connection, it should be similar to what you got when you touched the two wires together. If you are testing something like an incandescant lightbulb, there will be a resistance....that's what causes it to glow. If there is no movement of the meter, then you have an open circuit or in the above two cases, a bad connection or a burnt out lightbulb.



You do not have to apologize or make excuses for not knowing this Bob. That is why electricians, furnace repair guys, and mechanics can charge $100 plus an hour for their services.
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Old 08-02-21, 01:54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robert Bergeron View Post
I started the engine , the red light is very bright . When i accelerate the rpm’s the red light fades considerably but it remains on but very faintly . Normal ?
This should mean the generator is putting out a charge. I believe in the manual there is a section in adjusting the 3rd brush to change the output of the generator.

Perhaps this is all it needed.
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Old 08-02-21, 05:28
rob love rob love is offline
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I was going to suggest that Jordan, and didn't catch that the light did dim somewhat. Good call.


That can be done on the vehicle, but if results are not there, then off to the rebuilders to get the brushes checked and cleaned.



I had an old tamper generator that I used to run a 125v crafstman impact gun off of. I used it to disassemble the 30 M151A2s I bought out in a field back in 87. Everytime I started it I would have to stick my screwdriver onto the segments to get it clean enough to excite the windings. In hindsight I should have took the time to open it and clean things up, but it really only took a few seconds my way.
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Old 09-02-21, 00:29
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Many thanks Jordan and Rob . I will look up the manual and try to adjust the 3 brush and report back . Cheers . Bob
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44 U.C. No-2 MKII* /
10 Cwt Cdn Brantford Coach & Body trailer /
94 LSVW / 84 Iltis
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Old 09-02-21, 04:58
Michael R. Michael R. is offline
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Quote:
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I will look up the manual ... Cheers. Bob
see R3 Electrical, UC F1

.

Last edited by Michael R.; 09-02-21 at 05:23.
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