Red light in MKII Carrier

[Robert Bergeron]

I think it is just a sleeve ( Blue plastic ) over a bad joint or connection sleeve . The wires must of come seperated with time . I started the engine , the red light is very bright . When i accelerate the rpm’s the red light fades considerably but it remains on but very faintly . Normal ?

[rob love]

Yep, it is just a plain old butt connector. Join the two wires together and see what happens.

Ohms is a measurement of resistance. One way to do a quick check is to touch the two terminals of the ohmeter together and look at your reading. That is a perfect circuit with little to no resistance. Now check them again on the item being tested. If you are testing a connection, it should be similar to what you got when you touched the two wires together. If you are testing something like an incandescant lightbulb, there will be a resistance....that's what causes it to glow. If there is no movement of the meter, then you have an open circuit or in the above two cases, a bad connection or a burnt out lightbulb.



You do not have to apologize or make excuses for not knowing this Bob. That is why electricians, furnace repair guys, and mechanics can charge $100 plus an hour for their services.

[Jordan Baker]

Originally Posted by Robert Bergeron

I started the engine , the red light is very bright . When i accelerate the rpm’s the red light fades considerably but it remains on but very faintly . Normal ?

This should mean the generator is putting out a charge. I believe in the manual there is a section in adjusting the 3rd brush to change the output of the generator.

Perhaps this is all it needed.

[rob love]

I was going to suggest that Jordan, and didn't catch that the light did dim somewhat. Good call.


That can be done on the vehicle, but if results are not there, then off to the rebuilders to get the brushes checked and cleaned.



I had an old tamper generator that I used to run a 125v crafstman impact gun off of. I used it to disassemble the 30 M151A2s I bought out in a field back in 87. Everytime I started it I would have to stick my screwdriver onto the segments to get it clean enough to excite the windings. In hindsight I should have took the time to open it and clean things up, but it really only took a few seconds my way.

[Robert Bergeron]

Many thanks Jordan and Rob . I will look up the manual and try to adjust the 3 brush and report back . Cheers . Bob

[Michael R.]

Originally Posted by Robert Bergeron

I will look up the manual ... Cheers. Bob

see R3 Electrical, UC F1

.

[Robert Bergeron]

Thank you very much Michael R . Very useful information.

[Lynn Eades]

Robert, you can do that motoring test with the unit in place as long as you take the belt off. (take the load off)
How the light works: When you turn the key on, the light comes on. (battery voltage) When you start up, voltage coming from the generator pushes in the opposite direction. This stops any power flow and the light goes out. (or nearly goes out)
The round tin on the top of the generator is the cut out. (I think) This opens circuit when the geny output drops to battery voltage and stops the geny from trying to motor when the key is off. The voltage output is adjusted by moving the 3rd (adjustable) brush.
If you drop the belt and "motor" the geny, and it runs, then it is in reasonable condition, so you shouldn't have to pull it out.
Make sure you have good earths on the components.
Thats about all I can come up with without doing some study.
Read up on it.