Wireless Set No. 52 Canadian - Project

[David Dunlop]

Not that much of interest going on with the 52-Set lately. I have pretty much finished all the test measurements for the Remote and Main Set Receivers and can finally sit down and compare the two between each other and the specifications in the manuals.

Out of curiosity, I did do some random tests on several capacitors and resistors in the Spare Parts receiver and was pleased to discover they were all still within original specifications. With that in mind, I have decided the next step in this project will be to strip the Spare Parts receiver of all retrievable components, starting with the four Tag Boards holding the majority of the resisters and capacitors and work my way through it until just the chassis frame is left. A couple of extra plastic storage bins should be enough to get all the parts, including the two front panel sections put safely away.

This will serve a number of purposes. I can reuse original parts were appropriate before having to source modern replacement look alikes, which are getting more and more expensive with minimum order amounts and trans border shipping, and also free up a huge chunk of shelf storage space where the three wooden accessory boxes for the 52-Set will eventually reside.

David

[David Dunlop]

I was in the local Canadian Tire Store a few weeks back looking for replacement Hoover bags and happened to shortcut through the paint section.

In doing so, I spotted two cans of this paint sitting on the top shelf of the display. It was the first time I had ever seen a spray can of luminous paint and I was even more intrigued that it was enamel based, unlike the latex based ones I have been working with on the 52-Set. Even better was the fact the colour was the same Neutral Green, using the same phosphors as found on the latex paints, and it was recommended to be used over a white base coat, So I bought one of the cans.

The Rustoleum Stock Number for this paint is ‘272695’, if anyone is interested in tracking it down, and it is simply called, ‘Glow in the Dark’.

Nothing specific for its use at the moment, but the project is far from over yet, and it never hurts to have options where possible.

David

[Mike K]

Hi
Just curious about how you test the old higher voltage capacitors .

I have a D/I\D marked capacitor tester finished in khaki green, dated 1945. It performs well with a green tuning eye tube for visual indication .

[David Dunlop]

Hello Mike.

Interesting you should ask.

About 30 years ago, I ran across a Solar Manufacturing Corporation, Model CF CAPACITOR EXAM-ETER, with its matching calibrated manual that was headed to the Landfill. It was missing its test leads, which turned out to be critical for the proper operation of the instrument and it was not until 2019 that I ran across a chap in the States who also had this kit with leads. He gave me the specifications for the leads and I was able to fabricate a set.

The tester was made in 1946, vacuum tube driven and is capable of testing for Capacitance, Electrolytic Capacitor Leakage, Insulation Resistance, Resistance, DC Voltage up to 600 Volts and AC Voltages from 5 to 50 Volts.

The claim to fame for this tester back in its day was the ability to test capacitors in situ reliably, without having to disconnect them from their circuits to avoid biased readings from the related circuitry. I hope to be able to finally check out its capacitor capabilities with the 52-Set Project.

Currently, I have a basic multimeter able to provide capacitance readings and recently bought a Proster DIGITAL LCR TESTER Model BM-4070 to see what it can do. So far so good although in tight spaces, I find its probe heads much too large and clumsy to work with. I am interested to see how the Solar tester will compare to the modern kit when I really get into it.

David

[Mike K]

Is this the unit ? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wje6Z2eOWng

[David Dunlop]

Affirmative, Mike.

David

[Bruce MacMillan]

The Proster and the Solar measure two different parameters. The Proster is good for measuring ESR (equivalent series resistance) which basically tells you if the electrolyte in the cap has dried up. The Solar can measure leakage at high voltage levels. Using the power factor you can calculate the esr as well. I would be more concerned with leakage as it can sometimes damage components like that nasty cap in the WS19 that takes out T2.

Still both are good tools to have on the bench. When the repair shop I worked at shut down I aquired a Sencore LC102 which does both.